Primal

Gibson did it YEARS ago on one of their Ripper-style (bah, not up on my Gibbo basses, someone correct me if I'm wrong) basses. I got to play one, and to tell ya the truth, I couldn't tell much of a difference in the tone.

No self-respecting bassist would ever play any of those instruments.

Ugly. Plain and simple.

The nut to bridge distance is not the only issue. You would have to rip the fretboard off and put a new one on with the fret slots cut to the appropriate scale. Equation for Fret Position: d = s – (s / (2 ^ (n / 12))) Where: d = distance from the nut s = scale length n = number of the fret Therefore, for a 25.5" scale length: d = 25.5 - (25.5/(2^(12/12))) d = 19.125" to the twenty-fourth fret For a 28" scale length: d = 28 - (28/(2^(24/12))) d = 21" to the twenty-fourth fret

Or find a suitable piece of velcro and attach it to the side of the cavity to secure the battery.

Silver, unless you want mismatched hardware.

...and even if it doesn't turn out, well, you've got most of the hardware you would need to build your own guitar! =D

Define "defined." Alone it means nothing. Are you looking for a wider sweep range? A more narrow one (which is what "more defined" would seem to mean to me -- not something you are probably looking for)? Adjust the sweep to affect more higher frequencies? More lower frequencies? Before you go modding your pedal, you will need to know what you are actually trying to accomplish.

Why are you so eager to mod it? There is a saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." The only reason I modded my crybaby was to convert it from a bass wah to a guitar wah. What are you wanting to accomplish by modding? If you are just wanting to play around, find a cheap crybaby to mod.

You know, its amazing how the friendships cultivated on this board can mean so much to a person than when something happens like this, their family feels that we should know. Really touching. UncleJ, you will be missed.

The driver requires the presence of a magnetic field in order to operate. Think of it like a boat propeller. If you turn on the motor out of water, yes, the propeller will push some air, but you won't go anywhere. Put it in water, and... well, you know. The boat propeller is most efficient when it is in the water. Now, extend the analogy to the driver coil. Yes, the coil will produce a magnetic field by itself, but it is far more efficient (at the level of power we are utilizing -- this driver ain't no electro-magnet) for the driver to manipulate existing magnetic field (and possibly using resonance to increase in power? Hey, maybe that's one of the keys to getting the driver to work "faster"?).

If you are very careful, you could use a dremel tool with a router base (and straight board for a guide). How wide does the slot have you be? You could use a coping saw to cut the slot and then use a small dremel bit of the 1/8" router bits for dremels are too wide.

I heartily recommend Tru-Oil. You can get it at just about any Wal-mart, and can build a very good shine.

I can do the spock thing on both hands. Here's one, though: Same idea, only instead of index+middle and ring+pinky, try index middle+ring pinky. I can do that with my right hand, but it takes a bit longer to work it out on my left. For all you guys whose finger don't spread the same length, it may just be, you know, a slight deformity (too strong a word, but its late, and I can't think). =P

1. Not sure what the standard for piccolo basses are. Do a simple google search for your favorite piccolo bass model and see what its specs are. 2. Again, a google search for your favorite piccolo bass should yield some good results. At the very least, it should be able to give you some idea of the range of appropriate string gauges. 3. In order to calculate neck width, you need to know the string spacing. Again, because I don't know piccolo bass standard specs (if there is such a thing as standard specs for pic basses), a google search should yield some results. One thing you should be aware of is whether or not you will be able to use your current neck pocket, or whether you will need to route a bigger one. Your string spacing will be directly dependent on your neck pocket. 4. What do you plan on using for the nut material? If you are using wood (which I prefer -- elegant, and likely to give a more even tone, especially if it is the same wood as the fretboard). If so, just put an oversized blank in the nut slot. Once you get your bass built, set it up, and file the slots down to where they should be (can be lower than a normal bass, since there are no frets), then you can level off the top of the nut. I'm not sure how much mwah you will be able to get with a piccolo bass. I mean... you are essentially playing a guitar (one of the reasons I never understood the concept of a piccolo bass to begin with). I'm not sure if the higher tuned/thinner gauged strings will yield much mwah, since the mwah effect is the result of the string itself, not the neck pickup. Besides, Jaco used his bridge pickup almost exclusively, and if that isn't enough mwah for ya, well, there's something wrong! Hope that helped. Maybe some piccolo bass builders will chime in on the issue.

Walnut is definitely good for bass (build a predominantly walnut bass -- a bit too bassy for me, haha), however I was under the impression that Wenge and Purpleheart added more to the treble response, due to their stiffness.

Yea, I don't see a single thing wrong with that bass.

According to the almighty wikipedia, "perkele" is the Finnish god of thunder, and was "perverted" by Christian priests, who made it one of the words for Satan. Interesting stuff.

I've got one of the "custom" ones (only difference is paint and gold hardware) and I love it. It's also marked 2nd on the back of the headstock, but I can't figure out why, other than the crappy binding job (doesn't bother me at all, since it doesn't affect playability). Pickups definitely need replaced, although I've managed to get a decent distortion sound out of mine. Clean, however, just sucks.

You might want to consider buying a pedal board power supply (I think Voodoo Labs makes one). I definitely wouldn't recommend taking the power supply apart. That's just asking for it...

How about 12 strings? I've always preferred Chapman Sticks over regular tap guitars.

The driver shouldn't affect a peizo pickup at all. The feedback is entirely electro-magnetic in nature. The driver creates a massive magnetic field when it drives strings (it takes a hell of a field to drive strings, in comparison to the field a pickup produces). The feedback is just electro-magnetic interference between the driver and the pickup (in fact, in my setup, it seems to vibrate my bridge pickup microphonically when turned up too high, despite it being potted -- either that or its actually vibrating the entire pickup assembly).

Haha, I think the first phrase to the guitar solo is the first (musical) phrase of the lyrics to Free Bird... =D When the drums came it, it kind of reminded me of a A Perfect Circle song (off their second album), which is cool. Definitely gets going right at around 1:27, and from then on its pretty damn good, haha.

Maybe not a virtuoso, but I guarantee that anyone who has actually studied classical guitar and got his undergrad degree (as he claims to have, I'm assuming he's telling the truth) is probably better than 90% of guitarists out there, at least in technical ability.

I think the term laziness is a bit harsh given that his problem (and I have the same problem) stems from lack of experience.