Primal

If you aren't wanting to go with EMG, I think I'd look at some SD Basslines, or even Bartolinis.

Guitar --> Effects --> Amp --> Air --> Macbook built-in mic --> Whatever recording software I'm using

;-)

MM pickups are passive. The electronics are the only active parts.

PICCOLO BASS!

Stop being cheap and invest in a set of Dunlop Strap-Loks. They are WELL worth the money, believe me.

what happened at the bottom right half of the drumshell?

Its a reflection from the rag its sitting on.

In my experience, the neck wood gives the most impact when it comes to a guitar's tone, especially if it is a neckthru. Chances are, even if silver maple isn't a good tone wood, it won't make much of a difference in a neckthru. That's just my opinion based on my observations.

BTW, I hope the saw mill you are getting your wood from has a kiln, or the wood has been sufficiently air-dried. Otherwise, you will have to dry it yourself (IIRC, 1 year per inch of wood thickness).

...active pickups and active PREAMPS are two different things. Retrofitting an active preamp to a guitar with passive pickups does not make the pickups active. EMGs, as crafty noted, have preamp components built into the pickup itself. The pickups are much lower output and have fewer windings than passive pickups.

As far as I can tell, all Carvin pickups are PASSIVE. The only active components they offer are preamps.

*Ignore my ohm readings thus far, I don't think my stupid multimeter was even near being calibrated! It was reading about 3-4ohms when touching the 2 probes.....*

Yikes, thats not good at all. Try some new batteries. I know mine will give funky readings when the batteries are running low.

...(after all they aren't devil worshippers are they, no of course not, after all Anton la Vey wasn't for real was he - what church of Satan? - no such thing....)

*waits for someone who actually knows about Satanism (such as myself) to chime in to point out the fallacy of such a comment*

So, lovely weather today, eh?

Ricks do indeed have two truss rods.

Is any Squier (especially a 1997 model) worth nearly $700 USD? I don't know how much MIJ Fenders go for, but thats getting up into American Fender territory.

I would say anywhere between 1/16" and 1/8" would be a good start. Your son really won't know if that is enough until after the instrument is completed, so its difficult to say what is too much and what is not enough. Its amazing how such a small difference in neck width can make such a huge difference in feel.

for your first, rather than making your own PCB, stripboard may be an easier option.

http://aronnelson.com/gallery

(some of them are better than others)

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?board=6.0

thats quite good too, aimed at beginners.

I disagree, it only takes a few attempts to get the etching process down. PCBs are a heck of a lot easier to build on, plus its a LOT easier if you need to switch out a part.

Simple test. If a magnet sticks to it, it will shield the strings from the magnetic field of the driver. If it doesn't (like pickup covers), then it won't.

As long as the cover isn't magnetic, you shouldn't need to ground it. I could be wrong, though. If all else fails, use trial and error to determine whether you need to ground it.

Wilkommen! (Sorry, I don't know any Bulgarian, so German will have to do!)

Sounds like you have a great attitude towards learning how to build. I myself researched for a little over a year before I took the plunge and started my first build (I had only been playing for 3 years at that point, too). That's been 4 years ago, and I'm itching to start another build.

Anyway, I'm sure I don't have to tell you, but read absolutely as much as you can!

And welcome to the forum!

Any chance of a sound demo when it is done? I'd love to hear those Q-tuner bass pickups being played with normal bass parts, rather than the harmonic stuff that is on the Q-tuner website.

I hate guys like you who make it look so damn easy! Very nice!

like you describe on a fretless, is start with it at 32" from the nut (your scale length), and move it back until the harmonic at the 12th "fret" and the open note are the same. You can use a tuner to do this. You may have to compromise a bit on a couple of the strings, since the bridge is not adjustable for each string, but you can play with it until you get a good balance.

I don't think that is correct. You would have to compare the harmonic with the fretted note at the 12th "fret". The 12th fret harmonic and the open note will ALWAYS be the same. The easiest method would probably be to compare the physical location of the 12th fret harmonic on the string to the 12th fret marking. When the two are aligned, you got it. And actually, if you want to be more accurate, you would play the 19th fret harmonic and line it up with the 19th fret marker.

Trust me, you will HAVE to use your ear. You can only use fret lines as a rough guide. It will NEVER be perfect (at the very least, it will even depend on the size of the tips of your fingers!).

Well in defense of the poster, the definition of this area is "All advertisements allowed here". I think that pretty much says anything goes.

It was originally posted in the Solid Body Guitar and Bass Chat.

Do you have any specific electronic questions? Otherwise, this is not the place for this thread.

You mean 8' x 1'?

I'm sure he means 8" wide x 1" thick.

To be fair, I would have reported it as spam, too. Spam does not have to be a scam or something non-legit. Its simply bad net etiquette to register a user on a forum simply to post an ad about their forum. Now, if it had been a guitar-building related (i.e. related to our forum's purpose) site (not another forum, of course), then that would be different. But, otherwise, in my opinion, this IS spam, regardless of how legit it may be.

I would prototype it, but I don't have a working circuit, and I can't make the bobbins for whatever reason (they always fall apart on me, haha). The EMI would still interfere, but my thinking is that, since the two coils are at a 90ish degree angle to each other, the 45 degree angle in respect to the bridge pickup would mean that much of the EMI would go down into the body, under the pickup.