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aMpaGe

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Everything posted by aMpaGe

  1. Thanks.. After comparing duncan and the guitarelec diagrams that's the conclusion I came to.. When wanting to wire 2 pickups to the same DPDT switch, can you use the left side for one pickup, and the right side for another?? I suppose the way to do it would be to run the hot output of each pup to the middle lug on either side and then to switch? Turns out I had a faulty pickup anyways, that threw me for a major loop and caused me a lot of grief. It was supposed to be a duncan hotrail but it was actually an ESP pickup.. Grrrrrr... So how do you go about wiring 2 pickups to one push pull so they both go series/parallel, but not all be turned on at the same time?
  2. Those diagrams pasted above, taken from guitarelectronics.com ... If you were holding a DPDT pot in your hands and trying to coordinate it to those diagrams, which way is the actual POT facing? UP or DOWN? For instance, the series/parallel mod, 3rd one down, right hand side. If one wanted to be in series with the pot DOWN and parallel with the pot UP, what is the proper way to wire? My switch lugs are not labeled, so I don't know where 1 2 3 4 5 6 is... I assume it runs 1 2 3 down left side and 4 5 6 down right side? Those diagrams never show the actual pot portion of the diagram. I'm using allparts EPP280 dpdt pots. Thanks very much.
  3. I posted this exact message on jemsite, hoping to reach as many people as possible. Here was my post. Needless to say, I could really use some help. Thanks. Other than wiring diagrams on the Nez site, I'm in the dark on this VLX and my 2 Dimarzios and wiring them any other than this stock 3120. I've a PAF PRO neck and a Fred bridge. I am HOPING someone has a link to an exhaustive detail on the VLX, or someone reading this knows it so well they could perhaps sketch me a quick diagram for what I wish to do? Calling position 5 "bridge" position and position 1 "neck" position, this is my ideal setup. 5. Bridge series 4. Bridge south coil 3. Neck / Bridge (south coil neck / north coil bridge) 2. Neck north coil 1. Neck series Not too difficult a setup, and if I had more info on the VLX I would do it easily, but I'm quite unfamiliar with this little bastard. Failing help on this, or being unable to obtain the specs I need about this switch, I will just get a standard 5 way and install push/pull pots. Thanks a ton.
  4. They are definitely inferior trems to a real floyd. The most common problem is the bridge plate stripping out where the allen heads go for the intonation saddles. They materials used are very cheap, and they are very cheaply manufactured. I've had 3 of them, and they all stripped.
  5. I am about 90% sure I'm going to contract someone to make a custom body for me, and MAY go with a custom made neck. Seeing as how Ibanez does not sell necks directly, I'd need to buy a used 550 or 570 and gank the neck. I would like to have a 24 fret Wizard neck with a reverse headstock, but am not sure which stock model would have this. The Paul Gilberts have reverse heads, but the neck profile is different from a Wizard, (diff. radius, and thicker overall). Having said that, who is the BEST, most respected custom neck builder that could make a Wizard style neck with reverse headstock? Or that if I gave exact dimensions for nut width, 1st fret thickness, radius, 12th fret thickness, and last fret thickness? Would have to be a maple neck, ebony board, and 6105 wire. I could always have someone do custom inlays if I wanted them, but would most likely keep it without inlays. Any help/advice appreciated.
  6. Hi.. This is probably in the wrong area/wrong forum/wrong planet, but I am looking to buy an Ibanez 540 PII. If any of you have one for sale, or know were to find one (other than www.jcguitars.com - free plug to JC), please let me know immediately. I'll make it worth your while. Gracias'
  7. GE. I use an Echo Gina24. I bought the original Gina20 when they FIRST came out for $579 (eek!). I used the 20 bit for many many years, never a problem. and about 2 years ago I snagged a used Gina24 for $200. It's def. my favorite soundcard, and I've had them all. For the down n dirty specs, it has the best s/n ratio and thd of all the cards out. Of course, you can go full blown digi and protools, but... The 24 is killer cuz it comes with a 6' cable and 2in/8out breakout box. Also full s/pdif and ADAT support. The SBLive card is a joke. =) Ya know what my SBLive does? Midi count-in's in Sonar2. =) BTW, Cuabse SX is a COMPLETE ripoff of Sonar =) Ever used Logic? Talk about f'king ALIEN software... Gawd I hate that app.
  8. CerealK, you really do need to lighten up and see the humor in things, rather than take everything so seriously. I'm so sorry to have offended your precious swirl; (which, btw, did YOU swirl it, or pay someone to do it? Just curious.) I have absolutely no need to speak with you privately in email. As for the "weed" comment, Brian was totally fine with it and recognized it as a JOKE, and if Brian was cool with it, that is all that matters. You are doing a stellar job of moderating this forum, cerealk. We all appreciate your tact, and feel that you are an integral key component of this forum. Cheerio.
  9. CerealK.. My swirl remark was just an honest, innocent opinion. I appreciate you posting the "rules" for us to review, but I think you are going overboard on this whole issue. I realize that you yourself have a swirled guitar, and you probably think it is the cats meow, and that's great. I did not mention anyones specific guitar or anyones specific "artwork", just that swirls in general have never appealed to me and I really do think they look quite gross. Peace and love and hugs all around.
  10. Did you tell Brian that Nate sent you??! Maybe he will give me free veneer when he gets 10 clients from me. =) And yes.. the stuff I got was FANTASTIC. It was $27 shipped, and I got a TON of veneer from him. 3 sheets that were roughly 30" wide by 70" high... This enable me to lay them all out after flattening them, and pick from about 7 different bookmatched quilt patterns. I've got pics of it on my site.
  11. LGM.. Are you serious??? Santa Claus and Easter Bunny aside... this is just one of the nastiest finishes possible. Sooner or later, and I'm sure it was sooner than later, many people have figured out how to arrive at this finish. *Me* personally, I think this looks like a pile of ass, capped off with a nice ass bag, followed up with some ass finish, and a butt cheek clear coat. (polished with pubes)... Vai himself even once said it looks like intergallactictal puke, and I won't argue with him.. It's not as if some big trade secret has been exposed. LOL... This is the most assiest of all the ass finishes you could possibly ass for. And, I dont' mean to offend Herc Fede, or that other fellow... but what about Bartholomew J. Hudson III Junior Esquire the Fourth.. The Dutch guy who invented plaid. I hate plaid, wont' ever wear it, but I dont mean to offend him by not wearing plaid....
  12. For some reason, that whole "pour on and let dry" thing just never appealed to me. It reminds me of this bench I built about a million years ago. I routed out little 3" x 5" recesses into the top, and placed photos of my family in there... Then I poured on the thick as molasses poly stuff and let it dry.. Sure it looks great, shiny as hell, but it reminds me of molasses... I like to drink mollasses, not pour it on my guitars. =)
  13. Eeegad. Call me crazy, but I've always thought that those swirl paint jobs were just plain nasty looking, no offense to Ibanez peepz, cuz the higher end Ibanyezz's play great, but was NEVER a fan of that swirlie stuff. Cool tutorial though. Looks like these guys would happily swirl anyones guitar for a quarter bag of weed.
  14. It's an Ibanez RG7-621 7 string that I bought used for $180 with the case. The whole friggin thing can be seen here: http://members.cox.net/ampage Click on Ibanez Refinish link... I've got it current as of about an hour ago. My entire right hand is blue by the way, thanks to a faulty glove that had a hole in it... lovely. Check out the link and then if you have more q's fire away. As for the general questions, I would use the lacquer for everything, paint and clear coats. Don't MIX lacquer and enamel! Heh. And yes, you have to use sanding sealer on the bare wood. Then you put the primer on, then you do the color, then you spray the clear. The whole thing with gory photos is on my site. The type and color or primer is up to you. I've used both the white Zinnser B.I.N.'s as well as dark grey Sherwin Williams Ultra-Fill. You are going to be using everything from 120grit all the way up to 2000grit, but for most of the dirty work you will be hovering around the 220-400 range. Peace.
  15. Usually you will only need one can of paint. You need to primer coat the body first though, this will allow you to use less paint. For the clear coat, use acrylic enamel high gloss clear. I'd actually recommend acr lacquer instead of enamel though. Sanding between coats... sand your primer coat totally smooth.. then spray the color coat. sand that fairly smooth. the clear coats need to be baby ass smooth and you will probably use about 3 cans. my project is almost done and I'll post the link soon. Just got done staining my quilt top. Here is a pic ofstain with one coat sanding sealer ...
  16. >BUMP< I'm curious to see some replies to this as well. I am full on automotive paint / normal everyday products now, vs. order special fancy schmancy junk from web. Pain in the nuts. Had I known I get could the exact same results with acrylic lacquer that I could with nitrocellulose, I never would have used nitro... When I want stuff, I wanna drive down and pick it up, not order it and wait for UPS to bring it to me. =) I will soon have a body done and ready after 2000 grit wet-sanding and am curious to see which polish I am going to go with. I don't think I will use turtle wax, but most likely a VERY light-abrasive armor all type product.
  17. Thanks a ton... I'm still in the 400 and 800 range right now, got a few little spots that wont go flat so I'm workin on em. I should be ready to do high grit and final buff in about 2 weeks. Need to sand and clear coat a bit more then let her chill for about 2 weeks. Thanks for all the help. I'm now on eBay right now looking for some good used bodys to try some poly on. My pops actually has a Sharpe airgun that he is going to let me use. He bought it back in like 1990 but it looks like a great unit... He said it was $250 when he bought it, so. It's a bottom feed with two valves on it to set air/paint flow. Looks to be about a 20oz cup and it's nice n clean. He said that some people put bags in the cup, and fill the bag with paint to assist in cleanup? So the cup doesnt get paint all in it? We'll give it a shot. Gotta finish the Ibanez and Peavey bass before goin with the Poly. =) Projects rule.
  18. I'm having some really good results with the brand Tempo Acrylic Lacquer and the Tempo clear gloss acrylic lacquer. It's only $5.49 for a 12oz can too, vs $9 for the 13oz stewmac nitro stuff. It is almost impossible to get runs with this stuff.. the spray nozzle can go from horiz to vert, it's working out GREAT. I figured since nitro is friggin impossible to get other than online, and that poly is the bomb but I don't have a gun yet, the acrylic lacquer was my next option. I found a place here in Arizona called Space Age Paints that has over 25,000 colors! The store is insane. Anyways, acrylic lacquer is working great. A lot of the guitar companies use acrylic lacquer ... btw... Home Depot, Lowes, Pep Boys, etc don't carry acrylic lacquer, just acrylic enamel which I did not want to go with. You'll have to score some at a higher end automotive joint or something. I also spent $1.29 at WalMart and bought that "Can Gun" thing... it absolutely RULES. no finger fatigue and you have more control over the spray. kickass setup.
  19. LGM... Care to take a moment and briefly explain your final sanding/buffing/polishing process? How you treat the paint coat, and then how you take care of the final clear coats? Do you get your PAINT coat very very smooth, ie wet with 1500g or higher sanding, and THEN do your clear coats? Or do you leave the paint in a somewhat textured/not totally smooth 800g dry and then clear coat and start with 800f wet working your way up to 2000g wet and then buffing and polishing? Which compounds do you use? I think I'm going to completely hop off of the nitrocellulose bandwagon and go strictly acrylic lacquer and polys. Thanks a ton, in advance. That eagle inlay looks killer, BTW. Totally pro.
  20. LGM.. Kickass, and thanks. You have a lot of talent and your work is gorgeous; (checked out your site... jeeeez). I can't STAND ego and attitude, so with you and Brian breaking the rules and fully divulging all of the info that I ask for with no attitude... it's rare and totally appreciated. I think when people get to the level of skill you guys are at, they feel as if they become superhuman and ride this big high horse made of 2 parts ego and 3 parts asshole. Now if you'll excuse me... I'm off to spray my fourth coat of stewmac clear nitro gloss.... AEROSOL! Grrr... http://members.cox.net/ampage
  21. NICE work, LGM. Very nice indeed. As for paint choices. Obviously nitro is preferred by many... (You are right BTW, it is illegal to spray it here in Arizona). Seeing as how it simply does not EXIST here other than having to order it off the web and waiting for UPS to bring it to me, I want to paint a bass using acrylic lacquer and see how it turns out. Most of the stuff I've read lately, a LOT of guys are using the poly's like you are. Is it REALLY that expensive? I mean, what if someone wanted just enough to do one guitar, (which I assume would be about 12oz for 3-4 really nice coats) ? Also, do you have to thin/mix the paint with some type of a lacquer thinner? After you spray the mixture or pure poly on, do you then coat it with clear poly? Can you tell me which model gun you own specifically? My motto is ya get what ya pay for. I was going to buy that cheap gun just to get the hang of it and see what kind of results I could get, but ultimately in the end I would most likely drop a buck and a half on a GOOD gun, like a Sharpe or something. Thanks for your help.
  22. Brian, thanks for the recommendation of the Harbor Freight brand. I have one of those stores about 15 minutes away from me, and if you have found that the $14.99 unit is working for you, then that is excellent and the price is right. =) LGM Guitars thanks a TON for that information. You do NOT recommend that I go with an HVLP unit, then? All I would be using this for is guitars and basses. This one here is non HVLP and only has a 4 oz. payload, but for $14.99 that is a schwingin' deal. Harbor Freight Gun. From your post it looks like you only recommend HVLP for doing BIG projects... cars, truckz, SUV's, etc? My compressor is a very nice Craftsman 5HP unit, so lack of power is not an issue. I bought it mostly for pneumatic tools like rotary sander and airwrench. You said look to spend around $125 for a gravity fed gun... What is wrong with the $15 Harbor Freight Brian recommendation? At that cheap of a price I could happily buy 2 and use one for color one for clear, and a even third one to spray parmesan on my spaghetti. The small detail gun is on backburner, but I am definitely going to be picking up a larger gun within in the week. I've read and heard many great things about polyeuro and polyester paints, and these are simply not avaiable in aerosol cans, and must be mixed and sprayed via gun. (BTW, I never realized how obscure and RARE nitrocellulose is. I think I called every paint store in Arizona, and NO ONE carries anything nitrocellulose based. All the guys I talked to were too hyped about acrylic lacquer and the polys for finishing. I ordered mine from StewMac and didn't want to wait 7 days to get another can of gloss black in). Speaking of Nitro alternatives, are most of the finishing houses using the acrylic lacquers and polys? I am almost positive that Ibanez /BC Rich et al are using acrylic paints on their guitars.
  23. I think I might break down and buy an airgun soon. I was looking at a paint shop today and they had some nice units, but in the back of my mind all I'm thinking is eBay eBay eBay. =) So I get on eBay and search and there are a TON of new/used guns available, and much cheaper than this crazy retail store was asking for theirs. I'm looking for specific brand/model recommendations that you guys have practical real world experience with. I want a model that is easy to get replacement parts for, one that is RELIABLE, quality built, and won't break down. Ideally, I'd like to have 2 separate guns. One for primer, main body coats, and a smaller gun for doing detail/touch up work. I've seen some incredibly cheap ones on eBay both new and used, but do not know enough about brand reliability to know what to get... All I know is that I want an HVLP. I already have a compressor, and will just need to buy a moisture trap. Thanks a ton.
  24. Hmmm... Those look really good. Bear, I got your private message last time but goofed up the reply. Can you email me directly please? I'd be interested in having a custom logo done with your fancy schmancy printer, nylon material, and mad skillz. Thanks.
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