Howfar

My 45 year old Musicmaster is 1.5" at the nut. I've read that a few Strats came with the "A" neck though of course in the longer scale. I've looked high and low for years and never found one. I guess for about a grand someone will make me one. Is there an alternative? Thanks.

Yah, I tested. It's gonna be dark enough. I've stained it twice. The color is nice too. I just want it to be more red. I'm wondering if there's a dye or tint that can be used on the already stained wood. I've never used them before.

So what does that sound like? I'm really tempted to make something similar, just to get access to some nice low tones while still playing 'guitar'. The bottom E and A open sound like a bass. If you plunk muted notes in open or barre chords it sounds like a bass. D is where it gets interesting. If I mute it then it sounds like a bass still. Open it's got the "dropped D" sound but with supreme authority. Open D chords sound incredibly full or anything with any of the top 4 strings open. Almost sounds like a piano. Soloing in A or E are the most natural for me with this beast. You can do full step bends up to the 23rd fret. Overall though it sounds 75% like a bass but plays 75% like a guitar. I'm primarily a guitarist and just need a bass to record and this is perfect for me.

I use a set of Bass VI strings (.024-.084) tuned E-E on my 28 5/8" scale string through hardtail. It's a Warmoth conversion neck on a San Dimas strat body. It intonates and plays great.

I've stained the mahogany body with minwax sedona red but it isn't nearly as red as I had hoped for. Is it too late already? I want deep dark red. What's my next step? I don't have spray facilities so I'm gonna use wipe-on poly for a finish. Thanks.

I have a walnut neck with pau ferro board on a walnut Jazzmaster body. I just used Danish oil to finish. I love it. Very warm. Smells good too.

I saw a photo of an old relic with a pearloid fretboard. Looked pretty cool.

Last summer I got it in my head that I wanted something made of walnut. I got a walnut hardtail Jazzmaster body and a walnut neck with a Pau Ferro fretboard from Warmoth. Pickups are GFS Mean-90's. I just used danish oil. Besides making my room smell good it sounds warm and sweet. Smooth sound. I'm very happy with it. Walnut smells good.

I have fair sized hands, I can pick up a basketball with my left hand. I still have the guitar that I learned to play on 35 years ago, a 24" scale Musicmaster with an "A" neck (1.5" nut). As a result I learned to use my thumb on the bottom E. I normally use a .10 on the top and have no problem doing sweet and clear bends on the 22nd fret. Easy to use the whole fretboard. I also have no problem switching between my 25.5" scale Jazzmaster, Strats, and Teles 21 & 22 fret necks. The longer scale does have more resonance and I don't use my thumb as much so just a slightly different technique is required. Of course a lot depends on your style but I find the shorter scale sounds punchier. I think it's good to have both options. I always go as narrow as possible. Nowadays that's pretty much a 1 5/8" nut. That "A" neck is one of the nicest things I've ever held in my hand. If I could find one in the 25.5" scale I'd be the happiest man on earth.

I've got a Jazzmaster type body and a Warmoth 28 5/8" scale neck. I want to be able to tune it down a full octave E-E. I know the Fender Bass VI is a 30" scale so would I still be able to use a set of Bass VI strings or will I need to lighten up a bit? Suggested gauges? Also the body has no bridge routing yet and I'd like to make my best choice. Any suggestions or tips on selecting the best bridge? Thanks...

I love my "A" neck with a passion, yah it's only 1.5 inches and is the most comfortable neck I've played in over 35 years. Makes for easy use of your thumb.

Yes, I got a hardtail strat body from them. Read their fine print, it takes about a month but I have no problem recommending them. I feel I got my money's worth.

Thanks, good info. Sounds like 30" it is and I'll try a set of the Bass VI strings.

What is the best scale length and string gauges for a baritone guitar tuned an octave below "normal"? Thanks.

I noticed that I'd lost some text in my original post so to clarify - I was asking if someone could illustrate or suggest a more simple way to wire this. I have no experience with the slide switches.

I don't care for the slides either. I'm just partsing together a Mustang and have the pieces already. To be honest the Mustang Jagstang type guitars have too many controls for me but I'm committed to finishing this. The standard Mustang switch has each p/u on/ off and an in phase and and out of phase setting. I've never had a Mustang so I just want to make the guitar sound good. I haven't read or heard a single positive comment on the out of phase setting and it's really more than I need. Also I have the RW p/u which isn't standard for the Mustang so I just want to be able to turn each p/u on and off independently and use the one volume and one tone control.

I've graduated from a Saga kit to a Stew-Mac and then a Warmoth parts-o-caster. Now I'm considering a bass. Any big potholes to avoid? Thanks...

Yes actually my MusicmasterII has an aluminum gasket that matches the shape of the PG. I still have to cut a hole for the second pup. It's funny. This was my first electric guitar, acquired around 1970. It's the 24"scale. The neck and body seem to be different years but date from the early 60's. About 15 years ago nobody thought much of these so I stripped it to bare wood and replaced the original pup with a humbucker. There was no internet and no aftermarket PGs for these available to me so I replaced the cracked original with a homemade wood one. Only recently I've rekindled my guitar mania and I'm gonna it give some new life. The earliest Musicmaster/MusicmasterII's and Duo-Sonic of course have the same routs so a good one to mod.

OK, not much experience here... If I follow this diagram is success imminent? Should I be concerned about grounding my bridge? If so how should I do it? Big thanks.

My 2 cents is worth about a half a penny but I'll throw it in.... The sketch is more than a fair start. Starting there I'd elongate the body ever so slightly - a little more egg a little less teardrop. Headless? nah- rather something rounded that mimics the curve of the cutout.

Thanks! Scuffs I can handle, mold and stink - I don't think so. Oil it shall be.

Will this depend on the wood? Is it enough to use a minwax stain & seal? Should I be considering an oil rub? What happens to unfinished wood? Right now I've got a alder thinline with a maple top. Dings, scratches, coffee stains, bullet holes, roach burns... don't bother me. This guitar is for playing. Humidity an issue? Seems sealing the outside won't protect the inside as it's got the f hole. Appreciate any input. I'm planning more projects. Thanks.

I sold a Saga Tele for $200. I was lucky and got one with a perfect neck fit and no fret issues. Cut the headstock a little more like a Strat. Painted the body Mica Red. Changed the tuners to black gotohs, added B/W/B PG, (screwholes were ever so slightly misaligned - got it to fit though) swapped the chrome knobs for black and that's it. Looks good. I loved the sound. Very impressed. I just lent it out for a few weeks and my friend decided he'd rather give me $200 than give the guitar back. The test drive sold it. I wouldn't expect someone to pay that without playing it first though. That's been my best luck method to selling guitars, lend them out for a few weeks. Point is though there was really no profit considering the invested time and add-ons.

OK, yes - it was the switch, stuck with it 'til I got it right. Trial and error, ran out of mistakes to make, tossed the diagrams and fiddled with it until it works. Doesn't match any of my diagrams but at least I learned a little bit.