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Everything posted by jay5

  1. An RO sander generally has a soft pad and moves at much lower rpm's. You MIGHT be able to do a little shaping but it would take much longer. An angle grinder is actually a pleasure to carve with.
  2. Check out M_A_T_T's build log HERE. He has some AWESOME info on all the aspects of a violin build, including the finishing.
  3. What kind of CNC? It all depends, but yeah you need a CAD drawing and then translate it into a CAM program (not always G-code).
  4. It seems like he is trying to take the oppurtunity to stock up on blanks for future projects, all of which he hasnt planned out yet. Heres my take; Fender style neck blank- 27"X4"X3/4" Solid body blank- 16"x20"x1 3/4" LP neck w/ scarfed headstock- maybe 30-34"x4"x3/4" LP neck from one piece- 3"x3"x27-30" I cant say for sure about the LP neck blanks as I have never done one but if you can just give the guy dimensions, those should get you what you need.
  5. Man, I wish I could say that I have. Its really just a body hanging around at the moment. Im trying to finish up my first project at the moment (a tele). I have learned a ton more since I first conceived this project. I 'may' plane the body down a bit, hollow it out and then cap it with maple. I'm not sure though yet. I decided not to start this until I really finish the tele. Anyway, here are my specs as it stands now; Mahogany Body maple bolt on neck w/ scarf jointed headstock rosewood fingerboard w/ pearl block inlays 25.5" scale P90 pickups tune-o-matic bridge string through body
  6. Man, Im soooo glad you re-did the binding. I didnt want to say anything, but I could see several of the gaps you were talking about in the pics. Great job on the 2nd try!
  7. Cool. Not sure what I think about the headstock but I appreciate the pics all the same. I would be VERY interestedin seeing progress pics of the finish.
  8. Man, this was a tough month. I really liked Stew's ax but in the end I went for Tony's guitar, its so simple and that really did it for me.
  9. It looks like a hardware store threw up in your garage
  10. make sure you order fret wire with a matching "real thin" tang P.S. A coping saw is probably not a good idea.
  11. The friction/pressure from the wire being wedged between the three wheels is all that is needed to pull the wire through.
  12. [quote]shud i make a new topic of this? [/quote] You should search the forum and do some reading.
  13. Its hard to argue with Benedetto's method.
  14. Thanks Devon. Setch, what if any consideration would you have to take when planeing the neck angle on a double cut guitar, say a PRS? Do you think the neck angle should carry into the horns? How would you attack a PRS top?
  15. Rad! I cant wait to see the rest of this! Thanks a ton for doing this erik! By the way, Siminoffs book is great isnt it!
  16. Ok, so lets go this rout for a minute. If someone were to want to take the plunge and get a real spray gun what would a hobbyist (less than maybe 10 guitars a year) realistically need to budget to get quality equipment. Including a compressor (strictly for painting), gun and whatever else what would one expect to need to set aside? Any specific recomendations on brands/models? I have done the math and doing a few guitars RIGHT with rattle cans does add up quickly. So im wondering how much I would have to put up at once to do it right.
  17. cool man, friends are great, especially at the hardware store ~josh
  18. I have one plastic one. My drawing also shows a lock washer there, but thats wrong, just one plastic washer. It keeps the metal crank from scraping the acrylic.
  19. Hmmm, I dont see why there should be play. 5/16" bolt+5/16 hole=should work. You could probably take up the space with plumbers tape. I know mine fit almost perfect. How much play do you have? I think as long as the top wheel isnt moving up and down while you crank it you should be ok. If it did it would give you an inconsistant bend on your piece of wire. I will tell you a few things that I ran into with that top wheel crank assembly. First off, once I bolted the three washers in place I chucked the thing into my drill press and filed it slightly so that the two larger washers were even w
  20. Nice work my friend! Im glad to actually see that someone was able to put this to use. I too bought a few extra washers because I wasnt sure what was going to need to be shimmed to allow everything to line up. Again, looks great!
  21. Fender, that was my main reason in buying the plan from LMI. I was hoping it were going to have some sort of gauge but it didnt. What I did was draw out a 12" radius on paper and then start bending with the adjustable wheel at the lowest position. I kept moving it up slightly and comparing to my drawing until I was just under a 12" radius. With the lock nut once you tighten things down you dont really need to worry about it moving. I was thinking about marking it down but Im not really too worried about it. I figure the important thing is that you slightly overbend your wire for your desired r
  22. I curved it slightly. Its actually really just at a slight angle. I dont think it really matters though. I have seen them straight up and down before in pictures. All you really need is a way to raise and lower one wheel. In hindsight it actually would have been easier for me to do a straight hole.
  23. Ok, so here is a rough sketch I did to show the dimensions and the order everything goes together a little better. The size of your base isnt important but mine was about 7.5" tall by 6" wide. Also, my hole placement puts the crank 1/4" higher than what the plans call for. I had to adjust it because the lower wheels in the plan were only 1" in diameter whereas mine were 1 1/4". I think that the ones they intended you to use were smaller plastic ones but I figured for $2 more I would go with the brass ones instead. Also is a link where you can see 2 pieces of wire I bent. I overbent them slight
  24. Exactly, it gives the fret tang room and keeps the fret wire straight.
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