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TonyB7539

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Everything posted by TonyB7539

  1. I have always used Infinity Tools and have NEVER been disappointed. You will find there are tons of different companies out there though, so use some that fit your budget. Most are pretty good. I have used the Ryobi roundover bits and they work great. Hell for that matter I have a set from Harbor Freight that are decent. My only complaint on those is the bearings, but bearings can be replaced. I only use those for light duty stuff though. Amana Tools makes some great bits also, although they can be a bit pricey... I bought their Superrabbet bit with the replaceable blades with their biggest collar kit, and it set me back $250... but boy does it cut nice, and the blades are sharp on both sides and one side lasted me about a year of rabbetting MDF... The bulk of my good bits do come from Infinity though.... They are definitely worth a looking at, as they have some great top bearing bits reasonably priced.
  2. OH come on now... no need to pick on him... Now that it is pointed out, he probably feels like poo now... The big question is how hard is it to remove that veneer and use the second one he had to get when he ordered the first one....or can he just lay the other veneer directly over this veneer... There is no need to bash him or make fun of him, even though I have noticed that he hasn't wanted to listen to some of the more experienced guys here on the forum...We should instead come together and help him find a solution.... On a more personal note though, I think a nice pickguard would look awesome against that flame... Maybe a colored mirror finish... you can just use the pickguard you already have against a piece of mirrored acrylic and use the original as a router template... just be very careful and precut the acrylic beforehand to make it very close to the original size before routering it, otherwise you can risk breaking the acrylic... I would glue the acrylic down (with the paper on of course) to a piece of 1/4"MDF in order to precut so to reduce the risk of breaking the acrylic with the jig saw... just a thought though... and of course only if you can't come up with another solution...
  3. Real quick question.... Are you planning on putting a pickguard back on the guitar? If so, why go through all the trouble of filling and rear routing only to show the wire hole between the pickup holes?
  4. Does he pre bend them also? Just curious since I am about to try my hand at my first neck
  5. The ideal on your situation will be to use carbon fiber, but there are a few things that you need, and a vaccum press is the most important to get. Also carbon is stronger than glass by weight.
  6. Well yeah... that is if you don't wanna get all woozy feeling
  7. Well... Actually since I have been working with it for 15 years and am not dead yet, I suppose I am already half way there.... It's no worse than working with any wood... Of course there are basic precautions which are no brainers, like you wouldn't paint a guitar inside without a respirator, so don't work with fiberglass inside without a respirator, or at least a mask. Also if you don't want the stuff on your hands, wear gloves... It's not rocket science bro....
  8. You know you can just buy a bearing kit for your bit... but when you can get the bit you need for less than $20 what the hell are you waiting for? check here TOP BEARING BITS
  9. Man I work with fiberglass all the time, considering I do custom car audio for a living... it's far from deadly, that is unless you get it in your mouth or something.... if I get it on my hands I just use acetone to take it off.... Anyways, if you are looking for a resin that is clear you can go to www.uscomposites.com and under resins you can find the surfboard resin and use it... Here is a warning though. Unlike epoxys that you use to form carbon fiber, fiberglass resin NEVER STOPS SHRINKING.... There are resins that are LESS resistant to shrinkage, but they all shrink a little... I would just use carbon fiber, which you can also find on that site....if you are just laying it on wood, you wouldn't have to vacuum bag it....
  10. I found this site quite by accident, but I thought I would share it since they have 16 different videos for rent for those who don't wanna pay a ton of cash to buy them.... http://technicalvideorental.com/index.php?main_page=index Just look under luthiery
  11. You know, I see conflicting info on Padauk between the two lists on here... which one should I believe? Considering I just scored a beautiful piece 1-1/2" x15"x48".....
  12. The bosch jigsaw is the best that i have ever used... period...
  13. ok here is the scoop. First thing you need is the tools to work with... these aren't exactly cheap, especially if you are making a lot of them. You can pick up everything that you need from www.uscomposites.com. First thing you will need from them is the 70-25 Tin-Sil RTV Silicone Mold Rubber to make the molds of the stuff you want to cast. This stuff is very flexible and you don't need to worry about mold release agents messing up your casting acrylic. You will need to make a positive plug for your negative mold. Basically this means that if you are doing lettering, you will make all the letters raised up from the wood. This is easiest done by cutting the letters from 1/4 MDF board and supergluing them to another board in the desired look. Once you do that, make a box around the plug, and pour the silicone mold rubber into the box, following manufacturers instructions, and let it cure. Once it is cured, you can peel away the box to release your silicone mold. Once you have the mold made it's time to break out the casting acrylic (aka liquid plexiglass) and the desired transparent tint. Here are the numbers you will be looking for... Silmar 41 Clear Polyester Casting Resin and TRA-TK001 color pigments (4 1oz. bottles of blue, red, green, and yellow) Mix per instructions and pour into your mold. Let set up and when it's dry, you have a colored, clear piece of acrylic, which can be sanded and polished. If you want to light it up, sand it to 400 grit, and drill 2 LED holes, one on each side, assuming the piece in question is one solid piece. If the letters are seperate, you can use 1 LED per letter. Light it up and watch it glow! It's really that simple. So why don't more people experiment with this stuff?
  14. Very nice design, great looking guitar.... but how are you going to ship it to the head office... with DHL? Sorry couldn't resist... hey if you ever wanna play with lighting up logos on something like that get ahold of me... I have some ideas to throw your way... of course it involves liquid casting resin and some color additives and LED's and such, but if interested i will go into detail a little more later...
  15. This may be worth checking out... I think I am going to order one myself... pin router attachment
  16. I use this router.... it's the best of both worlds and has one hell of a warranty. Router I use these bits... Router bits I like the router because I can put the fixed base in my router table and work the stock like that, then just pull the motor and drop it into the plunge base for the over the top stuff... it accepts both 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch shank sizes which is important especially when you are using larger diameter bits... and it's got the HP to get through the toughest of woods and other materials... ( I personally use my router to rout Acrylic and Polycarbonate, Aluminum, etc.... and it never bogs down even with using the largest of bits.) Oh speaking of larger bits, it is absolutely ESSENTIAL that you have some kind of router speed control whether it be on the unit (like mine) or handheld. When using large bits you want to slow the speed of the router down a little otherwise you will have big issues on your hands... if you still have hands that is...
  17. I get all my bits from Infinity Tools. They are awesome bits for the price.
  18. You can do absolutely NOTHING with those things... they are utterly useless... Just send them to me and I will properly dispose of them for you... I promise
  19. Anyone who is interested in the vacuum bag technique, here is a link to buy all the products to do it, as well as a tutorial book on the subject... http://www.uscomposites.com/vacuum.html
  20. I guess I am one of the lucky ones. Every tool I have bought from there has worked well and has stood up just as good as some name brand stuff... I have their laminate router and their 1-3/4 HP Plunge Router from Chicago Tools, and I use them almost daily for different things at the shop, and they have yet to fail me... As a matter of fact, the laminate router just outlasted our Ryobi laminate router.
  21. You know, Harbor Freight Tools has a tabletop oscillating spindle sander for sale at 99 bucks this month...
  22. I think it looks pretty wicked. You should find a way to give it a "leather" look... that would go well with the whole theme of the guitar.
  23. It will be going into an Ebony board. The pattern is basically just lettering, but it's the font that it's in that is making think about the laser cutting decision, since it is kinda in the style of the band The Cramps. I can probably get 1/16th inch acrylic, or I can just sand the 1/8 inch down to what I need, I just have to be careful not to melt it when I am sanding...
  24. I was going to do it out of clear acrylic so I could put LED's behind it (about 1/8th inch thick). I could probably do it by hand, I just thought with that material lasering might just be quicker and more accurate.
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