wolftone

Thanks Resoration and Doug. Epoxy it is. Wolf

I have some limba with a 1 1/2" bark inclusion. Don't know how deep it goes, and may not go as deep as my carve. Shape I am planning to cut would put the inclusion, if it goes that deep, in area I will be drilling for jack. If I flip my template, puts me in area of front strap pin. Is either advisable? Should I treat it, and how? Epoxy? Thanks, Wolf

Thanks. I'm not that Wolfe. Was looking for someone here that had worked with these pups enough to get a ball park on the winding. Expect a lot of tinkering from there. Cheers.

Anyone know where I can find specs for '63 P-Bass pickup?

Thanks. What is the spacing on the ASAT bridge?

I see G&L uses a top loading "saddle lock bridge" on USA made ASAT models - tension screw pushes saddles together so they "vibrate as a single mass." At those prices you'd assume there wouldn't be any sacrifice in tone relative to their string through bridges. But then again, it may just be cheaper for them to install. The G&L bridge has extension on the bottom that requres a rout. G&L says the extension, and the side mounted saddle lock, results in greater transfer of string vibration. Mumbo jumbo?

\ Thanks. What are your thoughts on string-through vs. top loaded bridges?

First project. Bolt-neck, 24 3/4" scale, rosewood neck and board, korina body. Not sure my skills are up to angling neck pocket or recess mounting a TOM-style bridge. Does angling neck heel to use TOM justify the wood loss? If not, I've been told to use a flat mount bridge. Is there "better" transfer to the body with TOM vs. flat mount? Is there a big differece between string-through body vs. top loading? Not interested in trem on this guitar. Thanks... Wolftone