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iskim86

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Everything posted by iskim86

  1. any negative effects? will the lacquer mist freeze in the air? i don't have anywhere to spray but outside in the cold.
  2. cool, what kinda prep work should I do to make the lacquer adhere correctly?
  3. i guess i'm just used to being around CNCs at school yes that's where i got it from
  4. I just received a pair of $25 brass pickup rings for my bass. yes it's $25 PER ring and it's that expensive because no one else makes them now I need to know how to clear coat them. anyone have any experience clear coating metal? or is this even necessary? how do hardware manufacturers do it? here's a pic of the thing http://upload.theopenjam.net/files/IMG_9513.JPG thanks a lot!
  5. So I'm finishing a maple/maple warmoth bass neck, and I'm on my 7th coat of lacquer for the front and 6th for the back. the finish still seems really thin, so I'm wondering how much more I should spray. Should I spray until I can see build-up with my naked eyes (like production neck-through guitars with finished necks)? or should I leave it thin so that it looks like smooth wood? I'm trying to reach a Fender-like neck finish. what about the fretboard? how thick? thanks a lot
  6. thanks! I'm thinking of going satin too, gloss is too sticky for me. I've never finished a neck before (always used prefinished ones) so this should be interesting...
  7. If I wanna lacquer up my neck, how many coats should I spray? and if I wanna oil up my neck with some tung oil, should I apply it on the whole entire neck including the fretboard? or do I have mask the fretboard and apply something else later? thanks
  8. Ummm...do you still require an answer? Fill in the blanks! Unless you've already solved it, in which case spill the beans. don't know, gotta try it now
  9. stripped and ready to be finished! I am flexible with pricing so please e-mail with offers! I accepts trades too please e-mail me at iskim86 AT yahoo DOT com for details, as i don't post here as often thanks
  10. i have a new saga PRS kit for sale. I thought i was gonna work on it but it ended it going untouched. I opened it and took the body out to look at it, but that's it. there's a small ding near one of the pickup routes, but it gets covered by the pickup ring, and it's not a concern if you're gonna strip the sealer. that's what I was going to do so i didn't bother asking for an exchange. I'm gonna let this go for $150, but I'm including free shipping to anywhere in the continental US. thanks, -isaac
  11. i used a small and medium-sized (-) screwdrivers, small one for the front and big one for the back. you only need one though, really. insert screwdriver through back ferrule and pound to get the front one out. once it's out, the hole is big enough for the screwdriver to enter through the front to pound out the back.
  12. why does Stewmac always overprice everything I bought a new locking nut from guitar parts depot for $20, the Gotoh 1 5/8" bottom mount nut. just sent the crappy nut back to the seller today. good riddance. I hope my new Gotoh nut is good.
  13. i really think it's defective, not just a matter of compability issues. if you look at the clamps carefully, the spacings are different, and one side has a lot of space between the edge of the clamp and the edge of the nut! I'm sending it in for a refund, i e-mailed these guys about the issue and they assumed I was a guitar n00b (courtesy of mr. john petrucci) and bought the wrong size. I'm not mad or anything, but rather flabbergasted that unintentionally hilarious hardwares exist. :D
  14. hey folks, recently I purchased a locking nut on eBay, from merchant New Metal Shop Music. here is the link to the item: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...N:IT&ih=006 upon arrival I ripped the package open and mounted onto my Mighty Mite neck... and check out what happened: http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/floydnut.jpg the mounting holes on the nut are misaligned! I know I bought the right nut (1 5/8" bottom mount), and i'm pretty sure it's not the neck's fault (just by looking at the bottom of the nut, i can tell the holes are off). so this is just an advice t
  15. negative. just lost my motivation i guess the body also came with a crack in the sealer, but no biggie, as I will sand the thing off. my main gripe is the fact that the neck came with a BENT FRET. for that reason alone, I lost motivation.
  16. haha i remember that pic i also remember you from HC. do you also post at sevenstring.org?
  17. i have an unfinished saga PRS copy kit. in fact, i haven't even started it. it's been sitting here for several months already if you want to get a solid finish like that you can just spray over the sealer. the sealer has to be removed only if you want to have a transparent finish. the flame maple grain on sagas aren't very deep. here's a picture of the flame the lighting eliminates contrast, it's actually deeper than that.
  18. for some reason the pictures in the 5 string bass pictorial is not working I want to pull the frets on my bass, and would just like to get a scoop on how to fill the fret slots. I know I use laminates, but how do I trim the excess off? thanks...
  19. any wood, any orientation! would be great if it's under $150 thanks!
  20. it's the mike mushok (of staind) model. comes with a gibraltar 3 bridge i think order through ibanez
  21. i see. i'm looking for a more technical book. most of the sites i came across on the web are too refined, and i'm willing to learn the more technical aspects of guitar building What exactly do you mean? CMA stuff like finding out the location of the frets using math, finding the pickup sweet spot, etc. most of the sites i run into tell you exactly when you put your frets depending on your scale, but what if my scale is something like 28"? I want to be able to calculate the locations myself.
  22. i see. i'm looking for a more technical book. most of the sites i came across on the web are too refined, and i'm willing to learn the more technical aspects of guitar building
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