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iskim86

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Everything posted by iskim86

  1. weird how I don't see a sticky on this.... ???
  2. I made this in class.... more pics here... (along with some of my other art) http://washington.facebook.com/album.php?a...amp;id=10715185 it's been scaled down to exactly 14.58% of the original. it's basically a Jackson RR with a modified top wing and an elongated ESP headstock with an all-access joint. I'll make a real guitar just like it one day.
  3. that quilt maple burst is BEAUTIFUL.
  4. That would be fine if the thing didn't cost $400 There's a Grizzly showroom in Springfield, MO, which I'm half-tempted to drive down to just to check out their luthier supplies. Unfortunately I'd probably blow $75 on gas, so that's probably not very realistic. yeah, that's true. i would expect it to be more expensive if it had good wood... $500 and over
  5. I searched the forum a bunch of times and only ever found one reply related to a completed Grizzly kit ("It's awesome!"). There were a few dealing with initial impressions, but that's about it. This is the only site I could find that had any decent pictures or information: http://www.accelerationtech.com/tiger-eye/main.htm Again, nothing there about a completed project. For the money, I wouldn't expect them to have solid tops or anything. However, I WOULD expect them to have reasonably decent hardware and electronics. I wouldn't want to shell out close to $400 for a kit, and then have to spend another $150 on upgraded electronics and hardware. Might as well just buy an Epi LP and be done with it. wouldn't it be better if it had good wood and crappy hardware? that what I really hope for...
  6. i heard they're a lot better than Saga kits but it's not first hand information my saga came with a bent fret. anything has a better neck and fretjob than a Saga.
  7. yeah i'm gonna pad the inside with mass-loaded vinyl, but i want extra isolation i think i'll go with MDF
  8. I'm looking for materials to build an amplifier isolation cabinet... I was thinking plywood, but then I thought there's gotta be a better material to use. the goal here is to isolate amp sound from outer noise. what materials transfer sound the most ineffectively?
  9. do you guys think it's a better idea to purcahse a Dremel? it has more uses so it's a bigger bang for the buck, right? I have an older Dremel that runs on batteries, I'm thinking of replacing that one...
  10. http://www.tylertool.com/skil23.html ? i'm not looking for something very expensive... thanks
  11. I think Fender uses belts. you can also use chain i guess or sandblast it!
  12. you should just keep it and mess around with it or keep it like that for the hell of it. looks neat!!!
  13. that sounds like a real pain in the ass! since I don't want to radiu my frets, would this be a good choice? http://cgi.ebay.com/Genuine-Fender-Jumbo-G...VQQcmdZViewItem
  14. thanks for the reply. your procedure sounds a lot like the method shown in the fretting tutorial at the project guitar site. how do i make the MDF template perfectly curved though? also, stewmac sells the frets in 2 feets lengths. would it be enough for a 24 fret neck? thanks
  15. and it's too late for an exchange because I already filed the fret ends down (horrible fret job so i touched it up a bit) so since i can't return it anymore I should just use it to practice fretting.... (unless I send it in and they don't notice that I filed the fret ends down) and the frets are too small for me anyway I don't want to spend a whole load of money on something I rarely do. what are the bare minimum equipment I need? I obviously need fret wire. I have access to a mallet, but no press (i'll just hammer them in maybe). i got my abrasives I just don't have a way to bend these frets or crown or level them. what else should I use?
  16. you need to leave the neck like that. real pauls have necks that are glued into the body. the saga kit has a bolt-on construction. unless you're talking about the gap between the body and the sides of the neck? how's the action right now? and i think that would be a grounding issue. check solder joints, and if you can, just resolder everything or get an electronic overhaul. hope this helps
  17. i don't know... the assymetrical V is the most comfortable shape to play sitting down. i'd go for the V.
  18. i'm just wondering if i can spray primer over a body that looks like cow hide. throughout the body, some areas are bare wood and some are sanding sealer. is it ok to go ahead and spray or should I try to get rid of the sanding sealer completely? I ran my fingers through the transitions and it doesn't seem completely level (sanding sealer parts are obdiouvly a wee bit higher)
  19. how do you get your neck and fretboard so cheap??
  20. he's trying to hide the blemish on the lower horn.
  21. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=1892
  22. maybe you should just leave it, and let the finish age naturally by human contact in other words.... time to play your ass off!!
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