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iskim86

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Everything posted by iskim86

  1. standard gibson type, 48mm width pm please
  2. just an opinion, but unfinished necks are more playable than a thin one.
  3. i used a piece of mahogany to fill my neck pickup route. I cut the mahogany so it fits the hole. of course, there are going to be a places with no contact. I fill those holes with wood putty (fill between the side of the mahogany and the side of the route. then I sand down flat, and fill in the shrinks between the putties (heat will shrink the putty) with epoxy, then sand down flat again. then I put a veneer over the body then do the rest next time I'm filling in a route, I'm gonna route out a bigger, deeper cavity in the body (basically making the pickup route bigger) so that I can fit a piece of wood that fits better.
  4. i wonder how it would sound? if I layer alder, mahogany, ash, basswood, bubinga, koa, and maple and glue them all together, would the sound characteristics for each wood blend into each other? i don't think it would make much difference really, but I wouldn't know. opinions/comments?
  5. i'm not an expert, but.... 1) yes. 2) approximately 5/8", but a bit more for the anchor to fit, and because you can always adjust it later on. 3) it is 25.5" on the high E string. that's all i know, someone else can chime in on that. 4) do you have another HH guitar? just use that to measure and make a template. 5) no, but if you google it, you can find a lot. 6) no tuning problems. only the string between the nut and the saddle matters. the only problem i can see that'll be apparent is if it's too angled, the string will bend a little past the saddle (in the scale)
  6. nevermind, found out that i don't need
  7. probably been asks so many times but the search function isn't showing what I wanted to see so i'm asking again. does it?
  8. yup, but as for curved, the body already had the edge curves, not a new body with sharp edges and stuff. sorry, no pics.
  9. I know their trems are of exceptional quality, but howbout their pickups?
  10. i was gluing a veneer to the top of the body.... following the tutorial on the projectguitar website
  11. i'm guessing it's just the electronics? the rest of the stuff are just standard bass stuff...
  12. why is this happening? I try not to let the veneer roll up too much before adding pressure, and apply glue to both the veneer and the body, and it cracks at the edges. am I not giving enough spare veneer at the edges?? thanks........
  13. other than the saga kits, which are basswood (i hate basswood), what other places have J-Bass bodies for cheap? I'm looking for alder or ash or mahogany.... thanks!
  14. i'm thinking about getting this sander. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/Too...t.aspx?id=26606
  15. and what does a 1/3 sheet finishing sander do? are these optimum for sanding between coats or something?
  16. cool! thanks a lot for the input, folks! any brands I should stay away from/stick to in the future? and as for a router, what features should I look for? do I need a jig if I want to make pickup or control cavities? thanks a lot...
  17. and how is this black and decker router? http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/ref=b...asin=B000IEFIBO
  18. on this page: http://www.target.com/gp/browse.html/ref=s...;node=277196011 there are the black and decker random orbit sander kit, 1/4 sheet sander kit, 1/3 sheet finishing sander. which of these is the most suitable for stripping and finishing?
  19. Painting a fender logo on a squire wouldn' t be very popular around here though... edit: forgot to mention though....awesome airbrushing skills. Wouldn't bother me !! since its been mentioned I was thinking , lose the squire logo and fit a fender one with out a serial number. To keep everyone happy keep the squire stamped neckplate. or maybe switch the position of the fender and squier logos? so make the fender logo big with a small squier logo on the bottom
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