iskim86

any negative effects? will the lacquer mist freeze in the air?

i don't have anywhere to spray but outside in the cold.

I just wipe it clean first with Naptha, that's it.

is that lighter fluid?

I have been clearcoating my metal parts for many years and have had no peeling issues at all.

I am not into relic'ing, and want my guitars (and amps) to stay looking as new as possible for as long as possible.

I've clearcoated bridges, pkp covers, pkp rings, amplifier faceplates, tilt-back legs, corners, heck, I can't remember everything I've clearcoated.

I don't do it to everything, but when I feel it helpful, I do it, and everything I've done it to all still looks as new.

Having said that, I have all the stuff here to easily do it, I use an airbrush to do this, and keep the coats very thin.

Most of the time, if I didn't point it out,no one would even know the lacquer was even there, but nothing has peeled, and everything still looks as good as new.

Just so you know, a lot of custom platers lacquer your parts directly after plating, since their plating is so friggin' thin, and they will tell you NOT to use any Metal cleaners since most of them contain light abrasives, which would strip off the lacquer. They tell you soap and water is about all you need, as that will clean any dirt off of lacquer.

So I do my own, and I've had many parts plated that the plater did on their own as well, it wasn't my request, we just happen to be on the same page.

I am a firm believer in lacquering over parts to reduce plating wear.

cool, what kinda prep work should I do to make the lacquer adhere correctly?

Before to say that its expensive, ask to yourself how much it would coast to run a CNC to cut out 2 little rings.....

Then you will understand that 25$ per ring is very cheap, infact I dont know how he can make a living out of that, over here they would charge me 250$ per ring + charging me for creating the CNC programm if I would go to see a local CNC company...

Like westhemann pointed out, check out frets on the net, he does a wonderfull job.

About clear coat I have done this before on brass by going to see a pro car painter, extremely tough lacquer which is designed for metal, but i'm sure there are other ways of doing it, I just happen to know somebody who runs a car painting shop which did help...

i guess i'm just used to being around CNCs at school

They don't clear coat metal parts.This guy also does rings in some interesting ways...to me $25 isn't that much for custom rings.

http://www.fretsonthenet.com/other_parts.htm

yes that's where i got it from

I just received a pair of $25 brass pickup rings for my bass. yes it's $25 PER ring and it's that expensive because no one else makes them now I need to know how to clear coat them. anyone have any experience clear coating metal? or is this even necessary? how do hardware manufacturers do it?

here's a pic of the thing

http://upload.theopenjam.net/files/IMG_9513.JPG

thanks a lot!

So I'm finishing a maple/maple warmoth bass neck, and I'm on my 7th coat of lacquer for the front and 6th for the back. the finish still seems really thin, so I'm wondering how much more I should spray. Should I spray until I can see build-up with my naked eyes (like production neck-through guitars with finished necks)? or should I leave it thin so that it looks like smooth wood? I'm trying to reach a Fender-like neck finish. what about the fretboard? how thick?

thanks a lot

I finished a neck about a year ago and used 3 or 4 coats of satin lacquer finish. It turned out very nicely and still looks and plays wonderfully.

thanks! I'm thinking of going satin too, gloss is too sticky for me. I've never finished a neck before (always used prefinished ones) so this should be interesting...

If I wanna lacquer up my neck, how many coats should I spray?

and if I wanna oil up my neck with some tung oil, should I apply it on the whole entire neck including the fretboard? or do I have mask the fretboard and apply something else later?

thanks

I've done some router work before, like making cavities (not on guitars), but the bottom of the cavities are not flat. they are jagged and bumpy. how would I make it completely flat, say like the bottom of the neck bottom?

Ummm...do you still require an answer? Fill in the blanks! Unless you've already solved it, in which case spill the beans.

don't know, gotta try it now

stripped and ready to be finished!

I am flexible with pricing so please e-mail with offers! I accepts trades too

please e-mail me at iskim86 AT yahoo DOT com for details, as i don't post here as often

thanks

i have a new saga PRS kit for sale. I thought i was gonna work on it but it ended it going untouched. I opened it and took the body out to look at it, but that's it. there's a small ding near one of the pickup routes, but it gets covered by the pickup ring, and it's not a concern if you're gonna strip the sealer. that's what I was going to do so i didn't bother asking for an exchange.

I'm gonna let this go for $150, but I'm including free shipping to anywhere in the continental US.

thanks,

-isaac

i used a small and medium-sized (-) screwdrivers, small one for the front and big one for the back. you only need one though, really.

insert screwdriver through back ferrule and pound to get the front one out. once it's out, the hole is big enough for the screwdriver to enter through the front to pound out the back.

Makes me wonder if it was already destined for the reject pile at the factory, but somebody thought it would be perfect for that other reject pile known as ebay. (ok, not fair, I've bought some fantastic quality stuff there, but I'm extremely careful)

You can get kooky locking nuts for more money too. I bought a $28.00 Stew-Mac nut (made by Gotoh, I think). Open strings buzzed and couldn't figure out why. I took the clamp blocks off and the buzzing went away. Put them back on, and the buzz came back (yeah I screwed 'em down properly, and tried them turned around the other way, etc). I had 3 clamp blocks off a cheaper locking nut, put those on, and the buzzing problem was gone. As far as I could figure out, the Gotoh blocks were only clamping down the strings at the headstock side and probably even making the strings raise up slightly at the front edge (fret-board side), which could do nothing but cause the buzzing. I did not even tell stewmac about it. I waste so much time dealing with defective stuff from them.

why does Stewmac always overprice everything

I bought a new locking nut from guitar parts depot for $20, the Gotoh 1 5/8" bottom mount nut. just sent the crappy nut back to the seller today. good riddance. I hope my new Gotoh nut is good.

So the nut has the right hole spacing, but the holes are off-center with respect to the nut? Odd... But with so many companies making "Floyd Rose" hardware, I'm not terribly surprised that it doesn't fit. I bought a conversion nut from Allparts once that came as two pieces: the nut itself and a metal shim. The holes were such that it was impossible to line up the nut and shim flush with each other, regardless of the neck to be used.

i really think it's defective, not just a matter of compability issues. if you look at the clamps carefully, the spacings are different, and one side has a lot of space between the edge of the clamp and the edge of the nut!

I'm sending it in for a refund, i e-mailed these guys about the issue and they assumed I was a guitar n00b (courtesy of mr. john petrucci) and bought the wrong size.

I'm not mad or anything, but rather flabbergasted that unintentionally hilarious hardwares exist. :D

hey folks, recently I purchased a locking nut on eBay, from merchant New Metal Shop Music. here is the link to the item: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...N:IT&ih=006

upon arrival I ripped the package open and mounted onto my Mighty Mite neck... and check out what happened:

http://www.bloodyvelvet.com/pics/floydnut.jpg

the mounting holes on the nut are misaligned! I know I bought the right nut (1 5/8" bottom mount), and i'm pretty sure it's not the neck's fault (just by looking at the bottom of the nut, i can tell the holes are off).

so this is just an advice to you all, not to buy cheap locking nuts from merchants on eBay. and damn, $15 can't fetch me a half decent locking nut?

!!!

pm please...

Any reason your kit has gone uncompleted? was there any prefit problems?

I am confident that i can compensate for any issues that arise, but like i stated before i am still in the research phase of this project.

negative. just lost my motivation i guess

the body also came with a crack in the sealer, but no biggie, as I will sand the thing off.

my main gripe is the fact that the neck came with a BENT FRET. for that reason alone, I lost motivation.

Any time someone posts something related to scalloping a neck, this pic invariably comes up.

I uploaded it to my personal photobucket account to make sure I'll always have it.

haha i remember that pic

i also remember you from HC. do you also post at sevenstring.org?

i have an unfinished saga PRS copy kit. in fact, i haven't even started it. it's been sitting here for several months already

if you want to get a solid finish like that you can just spray over the sealer.

the sealer has to be removed only if you want to have a transparent finish. the flame maple grain on sagas aren't very deep.

here's a picture of the flame

the lighting eliminates contrast, it's actually deeper than that.

for some reason the pictures in the 5 string bass pictorial is not working

I want to pull the frets on my bass, and would just like to get a scoop on how to fill the fret slots. I know I use laminates, but how do I trim the excess off?

thanks...

any wood, any orientation!

would be great if it's under $150

thanks!

it's the mike mushok (of staind) model. comes with a gibraltar 3 bridge i think

order through ibanez

Not at all dude they are for newbies for shure. I am a newbie I never built a guitar yet but very soon.

i see. i'm looking for a more technical book. most of the sites i came across on the web are too refined, and i'm willing to learn the more technical aspects of guitar building

What exactly do you mean?

CMA

stuff like finding out the location of the frets using math, finding the pickup sweet spot, etc. most of the sites i run into tell you exactly when you put your frets depending on your scale, but what if my scale is something like 28"? I want to be able to calculate the locations myself.

Not at all dude they are for newbies for shure. I am a newbie I never built a guitar yet but very soon.

i see. i'm looking for a more technical book. most of the sites i came across on the web are too refined, and i'm willing to learn the more technical aspects of guitar building

cool! are they very technical?