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Posts posted by Wats

  1. FWIW: I bought a combo kit from Ryobi at Home Depot. It had a 1.5hp router (1/4" collet) and a small router table for $100. If you had a 1/2" shaft router before, this obviously won't do you any good, but here it is anyway.

    How is that router working out for you? I was looking at picking that up in a week or two because I like the idea of the router matched to the table and I will still be able to have my other one for freehand stuff.

  2. I'm not sure I understand the question - sorry. I plane the surfaces to be joined until they fit together 'light tight'. Look at the joint with a bright light behind it - if any light is visible, the joint is open and more work is needed. Once they're spot on, I glue up; the freshly planed surface is the ideal surface for glueing.

    Thanks! You answered my question perfectly!

  3. I joint bodies with a jack (no.5) plane, and clamp the wood in the vice so I'm planing as normal - no shooting board.

    I found a good tip for squaring the planed surface. Instead of adjusting the plane iron or tipping the plane to correct the angle, just move the plane sideways, so that it overhangs the high side of the surface - the lack of support tends to automatically correct the angle, and you're less likely to go too far the otherway.

    If you're planing something wider than the plane iron, you need a very fine cut, and I like to skew the plane slightly. Remember that at first you'll not be taking much away, as the iron will only cut the high spots. It's very tempting to adjust the plane to a deeper cut, which feels like it's doing more, but is likely to cause tearout. Keep the cut fine, and each pass of the plane will remove more material. When the surface is flat, you'll take a nice curly shaving across the whole face of the wood.

    Setch, do you have to do any smooth planing before glueing up your boards? I want to give this a shot.

  4. Second Prostheta's post. A good steel ruler made everything so much easier to plan out for me (I'm building my first finally) and Mr. Hiscock's book was like a candle in the dark. Then read as many of the posts here as you can, reread the book, then read the forum again - seems like it takes a while but things get easier to understand the more you read them.

  5. That's hilarious. I placed an order from WoodworkersSource.net and received a similar email yesterday. I'll paste it here for your viewing pleasure:

    Good news, Charles! Our highly trained and skilled team of 50

    employees has - with great care and attention - selected, packaged and shipped

    your order 21621 on this beautiful day, 2/6/2007.

    We had a lively celebration afterwards and the whole party marched down

    the street where the entire city of Phoenix came out, waved 'Bon

    Voyage!' to your package, and patted the UPS driver on the back.

    Local TV stations sent in cameras and reporters who asked, "What does

    Charles Watson intend to make with this?" We offered no comment so we

    wouldn't spoil your surprise. We do hope to see pictures of what you

    make so we can have another city-wide celebration.

    I hope you had a wonderful time shopping at Woodworkers Source. We

    sure did, and

    your picture is on our wall as "Customer of the Year". We're all

    exhausted but can't wait for you to come back to Woodworkers Source!

    Your UPS tracking number is: XXXXXXX

    Or you can also view your order by logging into your at account at our


    Thanks again,

    Craig Haggarton and Crew

    Woodworkers Source



  6. The widest I can do would be the White Ash blanks which would measure to about 20" x 16.5". That would be rather wide. Anything more than 14" width would make most play styles very awkward and a solid-body would weigh a ton. If you are able to find anything that size, go for a light wood. Some ash would end up weighing 20+ pounds for just the body.

    I know that's huge, but man is it tough to find blanks for flying Vs!

  7. Got some Basswood and Mahogany 2 piece blanks strictly for PG members, they wont be listed on Ebay. Dimensions are suitable for just about all guitar sizes out there. Have enough for 3 body blanks of both woods.

    $50 per 2 piece mahogany body blank + shipping

    $35 per 2 piece basswood body blank + shipping

    I can take more detailed pictures if you'd like. Boards will not contain planer sniping - the pictures were taken prior to the drum sanding process.

    You wouldn't happen to have a blank about 21X18, would you?

  8. If you want to keep costs down. Find a local supplier (that is the best way to cut costs). As far as the dimensions you are looking for enough wood for a body blank and a half. Basically two 6.5-7" x 20-22" make a regular body blank. You need 3-8"x21". Normally three piece bodies are cheaper because they can use more common widths less than 6". You are not going to get any typical three piece discount (because of width). Min. of about 7 bd. ft. (assuming min. waste). If you look at local hardwood dealers you will find common woods used for guitars ranging from $4-$11 bd. ft.(decent grades, 8/4 stock). Your min. price will be in the $30 to $80 range (depending on wood you choose Poplar to Genuine Mahogany). If you buy it locally you will save on shipping that would be between $15 and $25-assuming shipping from and to US dest.)


    Thanks Rich! That really helps. Now I know what I'm looking for.

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