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GregP

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Everything posted by GregP

  1. why NOT thin? I'm sure the answer is likely to be in the weight factor for the most part, and 'sleek aesthetics' secondarily. I don't think thin guitars are the realm of 'cheap', though. It takes a bit of work to pull off a thin guitar.
  2. 006 is one of my favourite body styles of all time. It recalls other guitars without being exactly like them. Cool project!
  3. Neck looks like 5 laminated strips from here. Might've been able to get 2 necks from it, though, Gibson-style.
  4. Left one (the newer one) is looking pretty good. Some refinements in the smoothness of the lower horn, and you'll be even better. I'd like to see it a tad smaller, too, but then it's going to start looking more like other guitars again.
  5. dog-ear P90s are not typically height-adjustable (as far as I know-- no direct experience), though I guess you could rig some way of doing it. Soapbar P-90s have screws that go through the top (the extra metal in-line with the polepieces that makes it look like there are 8 polepieces) and then screw directly into the wood in the cavity. There is usually a spacer of sorts (often rubber, but you could use anything suitable) which works in the same manner as strat-style and humbucking pickups-- except that it's between the pickup and the cavity rather than between the pickup "ear" and the mounting ring/faceplate.
  6. Looks like maple to me, but I'm no expert. If you're already refinishing it as a coffee table, I don't think you've stumbled across anything that's just screaming to be a guitar. Coffee tables need love too.
  7. There's hardware on the guitar that MUST be grounded. The part of the jack that you can touch is on the ground circuit, as is the metal tube that screws down to the plug on your cable (if you have one of those types). Just FYI. A good reminder. If the question is, "will disconnecting the bridge ground as per EMG's instructions open me up to electrocution?" then the answer, as I stated, is no. Further, it's going to be -safer- not more dangerous to do so. On the other hand, if the question is, "what are all the things I need to consider when plugging into high-voltage amp," then in addition to checking the outlet properly with a simple and cheap detector, you should certainly consider all the factors you've mentioned.
  8. Can't seem able to find it. Their search engine is a bit wonky.
  9. Looks like inlayed wood to me. But regardless, as long as the frets themselves are leveled and are at the right radius, it'd be fine. You don't need the whole surface to be perfectly flat for a fretboard to work; that's how you can get away with scalloping.
  10. I'm afraid you won't have much credibility until you've built at least a dozen excellent specimens and have a professionally-photographed gallery of the available models/options. A CSS template and a few paragraphs of description do not a business make. Even some images of you or your craftsmen at work on your equipment would be helpful. If you're truly serious about the endeavour, these shouldn't be unobtainable goals.
  11. If the amp is wired in a well-messed-up way, you surely need it serviced. Usually it's the outlet's "fault", though. My dad's amp for years was this Garnet that had a reverse switch. If it was reversed, you knew about it in a hurry! Greg
  12. Didn't see any mistake at all! Your advice was perfectly sound, I just wanted to add to it.
  13. disconnecting the bridge ground will SAVE you from electrocution... not open you up to it. The way the "electrocution risk" works is that the amp is plugged into a faultily wired outlet-- the current goes through the ground "path", which means up through that wire and over the bridge, into the strings, and into your body. Disconnect the ground wire, and you're not continuous with the amp in any way, right? There's literally no path leading from you to the amp. You're in isolation. Disconnecting that bridge ground is -safer-.
  14. And you are.... who exactly? I don't recall you ever contributing rediculous(sic) amounts of wisdom to the forum... or any amounts of wisdom at all.
  15. old guitar smell beats "old person's house" smell. There's no smell like the smell of an old person's house... provided they've lived in it for a few years AS old people. The only thing that might come close is mothballs. Do NOT put mothballs in your guitar, or your guitar case-- it will smell like an old person's house inside your guitar or guitar case.
  16. yup, second pic is same as first. Very cool! Rugged-looking and nicely-engraved chassis!
  17. I'm not 100% sure I'd worry about it either, with humbuckers, but humbuckers are not "dead" silent... it might still prove useful. TBH, I'm in the middle of other stuff online, so I didn't read Curtisa's post completely. The important thing to remember is that the shielding will touch your pots, at which time I like to think of the whole thing as one continuous "shell"... the shielding material, the pots, and the braided shield of the pickups -IF- there is one. These things can all be continuous with one-another. But then only ONE lead (I use the back of one pot with a wire soldered) goes to star, where the rest of the grounds (from electronics) also go. None of this "bent back lug" stuff... everything that's supposed to go to ground goes to star. Then from star, ONE lead goes to the output jack ground lug. So, to answer the question-- shielding doesn't inherently create ground loops-- but you have to know what to watch for. Although I sort of know what I'm talking about, all 3 times I've done a full shielding job on a guitar, my very first test run was noisy. Twice, I had the output jack wired in reverse; can't remember what the third one was.
  18. I rather like that non-bookmatched look. Very organic! Great work so far.
  19. If you're thinking about making a producting run, count me as an interested party, though of course I'd need a quote before committing.
  20. Went to visit your site to see if there's actually a mailing list-- page did not load! Just thought you should know.
  21. Obviously the answer is "there are no problems" but during the spraying I couldn't help but wonder if during all that waving around, if there wasn't the risk of paint particles getting on the exposed part of the neck, further up from where it was taped off? Are you conscious of avoiding a "paint fleck cloud" when you do the spraying, or is it such a non-issue that it's not really worth worrying about? Or is it covered in plastic wrap and I never noticed? Greg
  22. It's more accurate to say that the "Fanned Fret" design is a multi-scale design, not the other way around. One describes the appearance (the frets look to be fanned), the other describes the math (each string is on a different scale, hence multi-scale). I doubt there's anything "different" than that. It's multi-scale because each string's particular scale length is different. No magic there, just math! Greg
  23. I'm going with a pair of 89's, and according to the research, it's a true SA (the single coil mode), but an 85-alike (not a true 85). When you make a humbucker in a single-coil sized space, there's always going to be a BIT of a difference. That was a compromise that seemed worthwhile to me. I haven't heard much about the 81TW yet.
  24. I'd love to-- I've seen a tutorial or two online, so I understand the concept, but extra information and a different approach is always great. It's one thing to understand how it works, and another to have clear enough instructions to implement.
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