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Nicko_Lps

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About Nicko_Lps

  • Birthday 11/03/1984

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    Greece,Rhodes Island

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  1. Yes,that piece of crap is a spammer

  2. Extreme dynamics,sparky-bright sound and lots of low end bass.Playing with the tone pot open is how i described it,closing it a bit sounds more like an LP but with a more wider directional sound.Tryied gibson pickups..No match with those pearly gates in that guitar,the tend to get a very dirty sound without giving you the impression of thruss metal muddy tone. I dont have the equipment but i will try to make some clips along with a friend that he has the ways. Thanks Here is the fretboard and the inlays: That is the body inlay detail i thought i lost those pics just found them! (Edit:) Floyd rose and pickup pockets are curved exactly as much as they need,no wood is waisted.
  3. Yes this is my last name so i did black it out a bit.
  4. Hello guys, The guitar took me about 5 months to finish,tell me what you think. Specs: 1-piece mahogany body Flammed Maple top Flammed Maple 0,5mm on headstock top Neck through mahogany/bubinga/birch/bubinga/mahogany 24 fret, 25.5" fretboard African ebony Black M.O.P. 3 piece inlay gibson custom pattern 18% nickel-silver medium/high frets Gibson style trussrod Floyd rose pro nickel bridge Floyd rose nickel locking nut 41mm Mahogany back covers 2x Pearly Gates humbuckers Kinman middle pickup Bubinga pots with aluminium indicator,same wood on pickup rings and truss rod cover Sperzel nickel locking tuners 3 x volume 1 master tone 1 x coil tap switch 1 x middle pickup on/off 1 x 3 way LP pickup toggle switch Ebony-white M.O.P.body inlay White binding in body fretboard and headstock Stained with water based stain directly on the wood 2 part Carpenters poly sealer 2 part Auto cleartop finish The body shape is strat looking but a lot smaller Back body contour for belly like the one that strats have The 24th fret is not so accesible . Frets are pressed and before pressing frets fret slot was filled with clear super-glue(logo). The neck back shape from 1 to 3 is U-shape then goes from soft v and ends up in hard V. The Headstock back has a contour instead of being flat has a thick curve,ive heard from a classic guitar luthier that alot of mass there is good thing for sustain and prevents from breaking the guitar as you play and move... The electronics stuff is something that i hate,i did not do that myself. Cab head box are my build as well,the head amp was a fender hot rod deluxe more for that there: http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/pp3/Nic...20modded%20amp/ It looks like a baby guitar next to the huge LP body Allmost all the pictures i have are there: http://s392.photobucket.com/albums/pp3/Nic...-made%20guitar/ All the pictures are from a Nokia cell phone and as you see poor quality sorry for that but is the best i got right now.
  5. Its supposed to exchange different points of view or conversating about something and share to each other what we know.Now some may say something that i would not understand or mybe stupid by my judjement.I wont start shooting ironies to play the "Mr.smart" just because i have nothing more to say. Now youve seen the Mr.Smart westhemann?
  6. Oh So it was the strange router bit that threw me off . Should have first asked that router bit about his childhood, his likes/dislikes, all the typical "get to know him" stuff so that he won't want to lie to me. Instead of playing the smart one,that youre not..You could wonder what i mean cause i cant be accurate explaining what i mean. In that case Mr.Smart i mean big router bits not the regular small ones.You know what i mean now or perhaps i sould send you a drawing,it could be handy to your case..
  7. Ok,maybe US oak is proccesed with a better way thats way it seems softer to me.Im a carpenter in proffesion,i bought in 2003 2,5 cubic meters of US quartersawn oak for 3400 euro(each c.m.),usualy i get that amount of eu(bulgarian or whatever)for 1.600 euro(each c.m.) but not quarter sawn.That EU oak seems to be a lot denser,HEAVYER and hard to work with in the machines..Also,i wood that i bought about a year ago was filled with small cracks,and when i picked it up it seemed JUST fine..My bandsaw that is a bit biig you can feel that its loosing RPM when slicing that EU wood(5cm[2"]cut),unforunately have to work with because noone is paying for US oak..I mean that this US oak that i worked with was walking so fast in the bandsaw as almost as mahogany...Now the euro one i give you small very possibilities to see that... Sure i dont doubt the facts that you read and i read about how dense or hard a wood is,but when it comes to bandsaw plane wrasp etc tones of wood(aka in action) i think that you will notice what i say. It seems odd but still reality,please dont think that i try to say something diff. to play the "smart" one,its just what i see when i work with them,and ive worked tones of those wood species. Peace
  8. Because its used in baseball bats it does not mean that its as hard as oak...Actually there was a documentary about the baseball bats that ive seen and it said:That i does not break so easy as other woods because it has the ability to bend(slightly) and resonate after the hit... Oak is way harder than ash,also when you route ash with strange router bits that make a big removal to wood ash seems unable to hold one piece and makes some cracks,oak does not do that.. I still like a lot more ash than oak,if you compare it with US oak that i unfortunately used only one time,i think that the only diff is that oak has a lot more tight grain and it does not break small corners as ash do,EU oak is a lot harder than the us one but not good quality wood to work with.. Peace
  9. That you say,i wanted to make something different is up to you. As about the varnish,if you scratch with a sharp object as knife the varnish and the line that will appear is white-gray is poly varnish,now if you scratch nitrocell the line will be crystal clear. Thats a way to find out but not so handy for refinish. Peace
  10. Dude...? Thats a sick detail of work...Awsome wonderfull amazing!!!Crazy detail awsome stuffVery good work keep it up! (dont tell me that you used coloured wax..pls dont,did you?) Peace
  11. I would say that ash is lighter and ist better for staining it because of that pale colour,grain filling also is easyer on ash as someone said before. Anyways,someone mentioned that ash and oak are have the same hardness..Dont think so...No way... Red oak is not that good compared to white US oak...I bought some US quartersawn white oak for a work i had to do and it was simply awsome,easy to work with and hard rock!Ash is not that rock solid,but its lighter.. If youre thinking to use oak try to avoid the european oak,its a bit harder than the us one,but not so stable and a lot heavyer.. Good for doors,chairs,furnitures i would not use that EU oak for guitars.. Peace
  12. Plus 1 vote to soapbarstrat reply. Yeap, i've seen that as well,i did that as well. I filled the fret-channel with super glue then place the fret,hammer it and press tight and fast because it dryes fast...Super glue its messy to clean at the end if you fill the channel with it,but if you have a cloth with acetone and clean at the time you press down the fret its easyer after to remove excess glue. Peace
  13. I sand ebony with lemon oil in just to take that satin look and clean too.As cherokee6 said dont do anything on ebony the fretboard if it has not that big grayish lines..If it does not fast fret turns the ebony fretboard to coal black plastic-like looking as well as the gibson luthiers choice bottle for non finished fretboards(i just placed a lot of gibson fluid in the beggining...) Also most epiphone guitars have nitro varnish as well. As about the head stock i would say that is better to finish it with varnish and if you want a jet black colour go find some fretboard stain to add to it.I would varnish even the black side of the ebony,just like the strats and more guitars in the market,that the side is varnished but not the top surface. peace
  14. Kinman pickups are not just good,lets say godlike..You maintain the noiseless sound and the classic sound that you wish to have without loosing that "alive sound" that fender noiseless and lace sensors loose..I find them a bit fake sounding and muddy.(personal opinion as always) I dont think that you will have similar sound charachteristics as the mahogany because padauk is harder than that.. Now if your guitar will be made from padauk you must test the pickups before buying them,i thing that ordinary pickups ment to be placed on ash bodys will sound a bit over the edge to your ax,very sparky lots of treble etc..I cant be so sure about that but before spending money to buy,try to find a classic tele and remove its pickups to see what differance will it make to your body wood in sound and then buy what you want to buy. Kinman's are simply perfect,also the same style as kinman does(another bobbin at the bottom to remove hum)so does seymour duncan does,never played one of SD but i think that it will be quite awsome too as kinman. (I love AlNiCo magnets) Peace.
  15. All the ideas above are respectable,but then again an air-dryied wood is much better... When you force wood to dry fast some of the fluids contained are vapored but some crystalise and stay inside,that cause the wood to be heavyer not that stable comparing to air-dryed and if you use water-alcohol dyes directly to the wood it could not stain some pores of the wood that are filled with the crystalised tree juice whatever its called,it happens to happen rarely,but its a bit more expectable with to happen with ash. A hard wood as cocolobo will dry a lot slower than others,as fryovanni said. But then again it takes looong,cant be sure how much but 4 years at least are disirable(air-drying),if you can leave it and find something else it would be better for you since that project youre gonna built is not a chair... You can do as you wish,but i would not even think to start a guitar project with a wood piece that im not so sure if its dryed or not.It could be a total disaster if wood is not dryed well or dryed correctly,they have ways to do that im not aware of.. Peace
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