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RynoTheMagnificent

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Everything posted by RynoTheMagnificent

  1. thanks for the good info on locking nut logic, very helpful. ill check out the behind the nut lock. Im just setting up my router to make the locking nut platform now- unless anyone has any jig setup tips, im goin for the gold
  2. Good common sense to me. I shouldn't try to jerry rig a good floyd system anyway. Thanks again.
  3. I was curious if the locking tuners (allowing no string slack), really decreased the amount of friction, im not too familiar with alot of floyd tampering. I have the matching locking nut to use for the strat-nut pre slotted neck. the guy likes compicated looking hardware, and the guitar has no bridge cavity set for it yet, though the guy went through the whole lacquering process already- yay floyd routing. the only concern on the locking nut platform is if after reaching the proper depth, the nut will hang a bit over the headstock scoop. and yes the customer likes complicated looking gold hardware, which the old luthier guy gave him a ton of. all top name hardware too. I got a nice peterson 450 out of it. thanks for the insight. just gotta figure out the router jig now.
  4. Strange but weird customer scenario: my customer owns a shipping store right next to an old luthier. The luthier developed parkinsons/diabetes and cannot finish a lot of half finished projects (never met him, but depressing story- sorry), so he pretty much gives my customer (who never played guitar ever) 5 or six half finished well made instruments- some with partial unknown finishes others with finish but now bridge/ pickup cavities. Its an interesting load of repairwork both fun and verys stressful at the same time. anyway, i have a custom strat unlacquered neck and lacquered/buffed body. I was wondering if i can avoid routing a ledge for a locking nut by just using locking tuners with a bone or graphite nut on the strat neck. sorry for the long intro, but its an interesting load of repairs. thanks
  5. Ok, screw Behlens pore filler. Mcfadden's all the way Like night and day. Im lovin Mcfaddens everything right now, lacquer goes on like water and sands down like spruce. Just thought id add that- finishing luck finally going my way for once. Next to purchace the spray booth and buffing arbor, Hooray for buying too much equipment . Thanks for the additional help in transitioning into solvent based fillers.
  6. I used a light 1/2 lacquer 1/2 thinner "sealer" washcoat this time, after thin application of the Behlens waterbased filler, i can literally wipe off the excess immediately (just to see), and an unremoveable haze still remains from where the squeegee left off. Using burlap to wipe off the haze either minutes or hours later, the only streak/haze free result is after pulling a muscle in my arm wiping through the lacquer/thinner sealer. even soaking the burlap in water has no effect on the filler- only straight lacquer thinner or acetone. Am i insane or should i just quit and apply for disability?
  7. gottcha, so no worries with the water base bleeding into the walnut?
  8. Its been about 2 years since i last used Behlens, im just trying to knock the ol' rust off my techniques. I just dont remember how tempermental the filler was, though i have great results with the water based filler in the past. So... i cant express how frustrating its been trying to find advice on filler techniques(with the exception of Proj. Guitar). I have been working in 6" areas at a time, with a glue squeegee, paper towels and a fine scotch brite pad for residue removal. If i dont wipe the area instantly, a squeegee line will dry hard as clay. Also, through numerous sources ie. stewmac, lmii, etc.- say i should spray a vinyl sealer thin coat to start, then fill pores. i agree that it would be much easier to fill with no sealer, i guess i just dont understand the consequences of filling a non-sealed body. Blah blah blah, sorry so wordy. Thanks for the speedy advice guys.
  9. Just started to use Behlen's brown grain filler for a walnut body( a bit light for walnut), and regardless of how fast i wipe off, a thick smudgy coat is always left. i have already layed a coat of Mcfadden sealer and am afraid of sanding through removing the filler residue.
  10. I havent lacquered a guitar in a few years. Last time i had unlimited sources but never thought to document how much i used. Going to use McFaddens from LMI, which sells in 32oz size or gallons (opting for 32oz) and was wondering if I can squeeze out enough for a decent finish. Also if anyone has any other advice on spraying with my gravity feed in the garage with no exhaust fan- whether to even use lacquer, polyeurethane or anything else. and any tips to minimize overspray or dust contaminates? Thanks.
  11. Hope im not too late on this one. Researched my pants off between using poly or nitro in my poorly ventilated apartment garage with a hvlp gun and now have a great paranoia that OSHA is going to storm into my apartment. Just trying to make the best of a bad setup. Sooo, mostly wondering about the overspray/dust factor between the two finnishes without a spray booth. Previously but no longer having access to a great booth, i loved how nitro perfomed. Tips, tricks, advice? thanks mucho.
  12. I listen to random Itunes radio stations. pat metheny radio, or some wierd college radio. sometimes silence is interesting. this is my first post. very productive commentary eh? this is the most amazing helpful forum ive ever found
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