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Brian Lahti

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About Brian Lahti

  • Birthday 10/14/1982

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    Tacoma, WA

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  1. I googled Jackson Roswell and saw some cool stuff. The identifying info helps a lot!
  2. I have an open question to all experienced luthiers out there. Has anyone ever tried, or heard of someone trying, alternative materials to build a solid body guitar out of? Examples might some kind of resin, or polycarbonate/fiberglass, or even brass or aluminum... Now before anyone flames me for a bad question, think for a minute...who thought that a couple of magnets and coiled wire would make a such a great addition to the world of guitar music? Well folks, hit me with what you got!
  3. It's Merriam-Webster. Way to make myself look like an idiot, I'm not even going to try to play that one off.
  4. This is a problem that I have been battling with my current project. Cannot spray in the house (I like my organs and nervous system), but garage too cold.... I have set up a oil radiator heater in my garage on high, right near where I spray and where the guitar dries. It kinda dumps heat out, but it also keeps the area around my guitar warm enough--somewhere in the mid to high sixties. If you try this, make sure that you turn off all open element heaters (well, any heat source really) to avoid flashing the fumes. What an unfortunate way to lose a project! I like to play with mine a couple of times before I burn them And by the way people, please spell lacquer correctly. Not laquor or laquer. It helps my sanity when people spell correctly (if you are not sure, feel free to take three seconds and check it out--google or mirriam-webster). Thanks!! Brian
  5. I have been doing some knocking back, and have had success. This was necessary because I noticed there were a couple places that I did not tape as carefully as I though. I had a couple fjords and one peninsula. However, the only reason I can realy knock it back is due to the fact that the innermost color of my banded inlay edging is white, and really, really close to the color of white reranch aeresol primer. Way to go reranch, for matching their primer to my guitar! I realize that I lucked out there, and if such wasn't the case I would not be able to knock it back. By the way, does anyone have a little elf that I could borrow? This fine detail work is killing me. Perhaps I will turn it into a country song... "My fingers left me for another guitar, just because it was finished/And now I am here wishing on this star, letting my toes take care of business..."
  6. You know, rolling the tape sounds hard, but worth a shot. Too bad I didn't know that tip before I sprayed! Ah well, this is how we learn, no? Thanks for all the great help. All y'all rock!
  7. I would steer clear of using any different finish than the one you already have. Think long term...Lacquer will continue to cure and shrink over the life of your guitar. They will age differently too. In a number of years, that quick epoxy fix will stand out and look bad. Best thing to do is follow -CB-'s suggestion.
  8. Thank you so much! I would rather fix than start over. Its going to take a lot of clear...any building tips? I got my paint from ReRanch in the aeresol cans. It has a really nice application. Has anyone ever tried to knock the edge down a little to make it easier? Perhaps I am revealing my newbieness, but the idea of taking my Dremel tool with a buffing wheel and polishing compound and cleaning up the edge with it.
  9. I am in the middle of a project that needs some good assistance. I am refinishing a copy of a Gibson Custom L5-s. It has inlay edging that I wanted to preserve as I added a metallic blue coat on the outside. However, I just removed the tape and found that I had REALLY laid the paint on thick. I have no probelm with how thick it is, but what I do have a problem with is the ridge that I now have. Anybody know what to do? I don't want to strip it and start over. Do I sand the edge down? Build up clear on the edge? Other suggestions? I will post some pics in a bit, to give you an idea of what I am dealing with. Thanks!
  10. You just have to put a strap lock pin on the neck end of the body...the endpin jack will hold the other end of your strap in place--especially when you plug it in. I have never heard of anyone dropping their axe with an endpin jack. **if** the strap were to come off the pin, you have the cord for it to hang up on. Hope this helps Brian
  11. No, I believe the "S" in the model name refers to the fact that it is a 'S'olid body. Try a google search for L5-S (http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10&um=1&hl=en&q=Gibson+L-5s) On a lighter note, check this action out! I found it when searching for pics of a finished L5-S. http://news.harmony-central.com/Newp/2007/...elf-Tuning.html Too bad it is only available as original equipment!
  12. I got a hold of what I was told was a copy of a Gibson L5S Custom solid body electri guitar. I came stripped of all finish. So far, I have sanded it glass smooth and just ordered the nitro to finish it. Paint: I am goint to do a burst with fender colors Lake Placid Blue and Ice Blue. I am hoping that that will turn out well. I know, Fender colors on a Gibson? They just look so cool, and it will turn out like a a picture that I saw of the new Les Paul HD6X. Electronics: * SD '59 (neck) and Custom (bridge) pickups. * 3-way pickup switch * 2Vol pots push/pull - neck pot will switch the pickup circuit from series to parallel (between pickups) - bridge pot will put the pickups out of phase * Concentric pot for tone/and a black ice distortion circuit from stewmac.com (dial distiortion!) * 2 on/on/on DP/DT mini-switches to do a series/split/parallel job on each pickup * Endpin jack so that the face of the guitar won't be too cluttered : ) I can't do a side wall jack, becuase the wall of the control cavity is not wide enough. My guitar pics
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