crafty

:popcorn:

The guy who runs the store and owns GFS is a good salesman. They're all just generic imported pickups that are wound to various specs. You won't find any special magnet tricks or special construction on them. Depending on what you're building, most of the big manufacturers are probably worth the extra $20 for the better pickups.

They can be used with any active or passive pickup.

Are you picking up these signals with only this guitar?

Not really. You need to measure from the 12th fret to the bridge. A lot of Strat pickguards are off by quite a bit and I wouldn't use one for a routing guide OR setting the bridge.

I replaced the 500t and 496r that came in my LPC with the DiMarzio PAF Classics. I wanted the vintage look, but if you want the "uncovered" look just go with the DiMarzio PAF or Duncan '59.

Pick up an 89/SA/SA set. I love the SA set in my Strat and the 89 was designed for bridge pickup usage in a set like that. There's a new version of the 81 that is supposed to be like the 89, but uses an S ceramic single-coil instead of the alnico-5 SA.

Kind of a silly "upgrade", but entirely doable if you use the EMG PA-2 on the passive side. Unless you're just overly happy with the stock pickups, I'd replace the whole set.

Hmmpf. Real men go down to the pound and "adopt" a cat for strings...

Look up mixers. You basically combine either dual preamps or dual inputs into one preamp and use trimpots to adjust the gain on either side.

I had to go with the Red Devil just because he had chicks in his post! It's so Ed Romanesque...c'mon Sorbera I KNOW you've got to know some honey babies you can get to pose with your gat.

Not any worse than your arm resting on the guitar...

Strat (without the blasted volume control right under the bridge pickup!). Perhaps the only guitar ever designed that was prototyped with working musicians and tweaked until the shape was just right for the player. Now if Leo could have only gotten the volume control positioning right!

Ground loops. Use a star-grounding method to join everything to one common ground point instead of a ground-buss arrangement like the factory.

I used a 250k pot when my Strat was set up for HSS. It sounded warmer and didn't turn the singles into icepicks.

Sick. That came out really great. I think their painter could have done a little better, though. The burst doesn't follow the contours close to the neck, but follows the ones towards the back of the guitar, plus it appears that there's a slight overspray towards the back. I dig the silverburst idea--very '80s.

The EBMM Petrucci is probably the best guitar I've ever played and I would love to own one. It sounds waaay better than it looks like it should with the relatively small basswood body, so that little piece of mahog may have something to do with it. It feels a lot like a Parker but sounds like a very clean Les Paul or PRS.

It'd be kind of a cool variation on the cigar box guitar concept.

How is it played?

Like I said, nobody here is jumping to conclusions because your work speaks for itself. It is painfully obvious from the content of your posts that your builds simply lack thorough planning. You have good goals, direction, and ambition, but you need to form a final plan before you ever touch the saw. I'm finished posting here. Like I said before, good luck finishing this one up. I sincerely hope the new electronics work this time.

Ibanez uses their own locking designs known as Edge, Lo Pro, and Lo Pro II, among others. While they trace their heritage in design back to the original Floyd, that's pretty much where the similarities end. The original Floyds weren't designed to be recessed in a Strat body. They were designed to have the baseplate sitting on top of the guitar for dive-only operation. The recessing fad that started actually decreased the ability of the unit to keep the instrument in stable tune.

+1 Most guitarists are content to buy the prettiest Ibanez or BC Rich on the rack at Guitar Center and plug it into a Line 6 Spider. A lot of them are incredibly talented and could do even better with great equipment, but as long as the dorm room/basement groupies are satisfied, who cares? It takes a lot of time, money, and practice to be a true Guitar Geek.

I never said I didn't like you or your work and if I'm telling you something more than once, it's for good reason. You have talent and I think you could be a really good luthier if you'd simply take the time to plan what you're doing and listen to what others are telling you. Nobody is jumping to conclusions about your actions because your work product speaks for itself. Your problem is that you are skipping over basic steps and fundamentals in a rush to complete less than perfect builds. Not "caring" what kind of wood you're building the guitar with is simply foolish. Not "caring" to plan and measure every cut and joint is simply wasteful of materials and time. People here build and modify guitars on their own because they can't get that customization they desire from the factory. When you're building instruments that wouldn't get past QC at Fender Indonesia simply because you're making stupid mistakes and ignoring valuable advice and free resources, what's the point of hacking up a perfectly good piece of wood?

You're right. Reading through some of your posts, folks DO tend to jump to a conclusion with you. It happens quite a bit. Maybe you're not fully explaining your thoughts. I think it's more like he explains what he's thinking, then people tell him either what he's doing wrong or how to fix the problem, then he bites back with how he's an expert in woodworking, electronics, and whatever else he feels like and doesn't need our help. More time , less time posting...hope you have better luck with the new pickups.

If active, check the battery first, then go from the output jack back. If passive, check the output jack first.