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wardd

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About wardd

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/06/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Iowa
  • Interests
    Electric guitar making, fishing, computer programming, woodworking.

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  1. Ok, that's one vote for Less Filling. d ward
  2. I've seen many posts and guitar designs that center on keeping the instrument as light as possible or at least lighter than it would be if everything was left solid. My player guru has a theory that the optimum weight of a solid body electric would be 7 1/2 pounds. I'd be interested in other opinions on this idea. Be Cool, d ward
  3. Here's a link to some stuff I found where they are talking about "velocity of sound" for different kinds of wood and other general tonal properties. http://www.sweetwater.com/shop/guitars/ele...uying-guide.php Be Cool, d ward
  4. In 1972 I worked in a music store and the owner was somewhat of an inventor. He had the same idea for a fully adjustable nut. He came up with a design and had a patent lawyer do the patent search and found that there were already 5 or 6 patents for a similar device. I'm sure I've seen "compensated" nuts somewhere. Be Cool, d ward
  5. Andy, First of all, welcome to the group, you will find a lot of good info and help here. I'm a math teacher so I'm glad to see your teacher giving you a challenge project. One thing I've been working on for the group is to develop a way to introduce new members in an effort to help them find the info they need. Follow the link below and it will guide you to the tutorial sections etc. where you can find lots of good info. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=22201 I think a telecaster would be a good starting project since they have a "flat" body that doesn't
  6. First your picture needs to be hosted somewhere. Then add tag after, I can't show it here as it thinks its an image reference and won't show it. Use the square brackets [] not the usual <> brackets used with html. There is a picture button (the little tree), but it won't work in older browsers. The button does the same thing as the above, it just adds the tags for you. Good luck, d ward
  7. I found this picture of a mahogany PRS for you. I have a mahogany '65 SG Junior I refinished to natual and I think it looks fine. Good Luck, d ward
  8. Another good trick is to use an aligator clip as a heat sink when soldering small components like capacitors. Clip it between the solder joint and the capacitor to bleed off heat. Good Luck, d ward
  9. ol kp, Here is a link to some stuff I'm trying to develop to help new members to find the info they need. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=22201 You will find answers to many of your questions in the tutorial sections. Good Luck, d ward
  10. I made my first guitar out of a figured maple table my mom picked up at an auction or rummage sale. It looked like some kid had made it in shop class maybe. But, the wood was nice. The hardest part as I recall (did this in 1978) was working around all the screw holes. The other big problem was of course keeping the legs from poking you when you strapped it on. Good luck, d ward
  11. Why not make yourself one of these. Be Cool, d ward
  12. Dragos, First of all welcome aboard, there is a wealth of info on guitar making you can find here. I've been working on a way to introduce new members to the site, follow the link below to get at least some help on using the site. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=22201 As to your plans for a guitar building project. I would first start looking at pictures of guitars that you find here or elsewhere on the net. Once you focus in on something, then start looking for the details like templates etc. Another thing that would be helpful in getting advice on a f
  13. I made myself a permanant template for this one, I hope to repeat it. I inherited some 5/16 plexiglass, ok I fished it out of the trash at work, seemed like it would work well. I added some 1/4 alignment holes that go through the center of the pickups. I plan on using dowels to hold the top and center in alignment when clamping. I'm going to rout the channels for the wiring in the top so they won't be too deep. Be Cool, d ward
  14. I have seen bending tool made with a torch pointing into a piece of steel pipe. I'm thinking that if you play with the distance between the end of the pipe and the torch you could adjust the temp to a certain extent. Then if you put a cap on the other end you could drill holes to let some heat escape and adjust that way too. Between the two you could play with the above until you get the temp right. Just thinking out loud. Good Luck, d ward
  15. GregP, You're right, it sound like a real pain all the way around. If I were you, I'd take a close look at that sweet lap steel in the April GOTM and make the guy an offer he just can't turn down. Be Cool, d ward
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