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About loosetoe

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  1. 2 5/8" on the fretless R4 on the explorer Dont know onthe Rickenbacker or fender basses
  2. skibum5545 The scale + no frets has proved ...um....challenging. I have become much more accustomed to playing it over the last couple of weeks, but man has it been an interesting experience. Strangely I have foundit to be the lightest bass I own which has really surprised me. I figured it would be massive, but it's quite comfortable. darkmavis I am not familiar with Seppard. The bass is 1.25" thick. This is actually thicker than I orignially wanted, but going much thiner would have required a few more steps of planning. I played on a 3/4" thick bass at the local high end bass
  3. I ROUGH cut my 38" scale to 52 then went from there. So I'd venture to say yes 48 is enough. Ebony seems too expensive to me as well. Macassar ebony is nore like $65 b/f here in Austin, Texas. And the only chunks I can find are ~3 b/f. Too rich for my skill level.
  4. LOVE the heel! If i build another instrument, im shooting for a heel like yours or one like this (in my dreams): I also like the maple tapers at the bottom of your neck. Class act. Are you pleased with the tru-oil so far? It's not my favorite oil finish, but it looks very nice here. -Wayne
  5. Dave, excellent work! you should be proud. By chance, do you happen to have a pic of the rear end of the guitar. (not the back, but the lower side). I ask because in looking at the picture, the wood doesnt seem to have discernable end grain. The wood in the horns looks like face grain as does the top. -Wayne
  6. This thread REALLY surprises me. At a whopping 28 years old I must be completely outdated if people think that a BC rich 10 string Bitch looks "gay" or otherwise un-cool. Just a decade ago I thought the Bitch was THE metal guitar. An American made BC Rich 3x3 head with just the R logo. THAT WAS IT! Forget the Warlock... too obvious. A Jackson RR with reverse headstock?....only if it had teenage mutant ninja turtles stickers on it. Seeing John Christ play his black bitch on the Danzig 2 tour just made me think that was the epitome of the cool guitar. Jet black, through neck, sens
  7. Dave, You should enter this in GOTM! These same 2 guys talked me into putting mine in there. That is inspiring work. Those LEDs will make alot of people think about doing it. And inspiring others / getting ideas from others for the next project is what this is all about (IMO). Why not? -Wayne
  8. I guess I "might as well" enter. ( - for jehle) I built the following bass over the course of the last 3 months. I have built a few necks and a few bodies in the past, but this is actually my first atempt at going the whole 9 yards in one fell swoop. I always wanted a fretless bass, but I cannot even come near to affording a Carl Thompson or a Benavente. So, I gave it my best shot. I could not be happier with the results. The bass is a 38" scale single cut/jazz bass. Project pics of its construction can be found at http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=6728 The b
  9. Hmm.. I think you guys are being overly kind to Squires. The squire I have is a plywood body. This was my first bass purchased new around 1990. I disassembled it a few years back. The plywood can clearly be seen in the neck joint. The pickup route is not as obvious, but the route is nasty. Strangely the route does not have the route from the pickup to the control cavity. There is a drilled hole.
  10. OK, just to be clear. I think you SHOULD do some of the neck beore gluing. The complete fretboard and above for exmple. My point is primarily that the through neck just takes a little more careful planning to ensure that you will be able to get everything together properly. Just as you show in your thread Wes, I also did my fretbaord completely before gluing the wings. A also did a majority of the taper prior to gluing. But since my shape was a single cut (think Les Paul) I had to be more accurate with the taper so as to not impede on the upper bout's glue surface. I did not shape
  11. Frankie, I saw that you asked this question in one of my Bass threads. I am not sure that one or the other is easier/harder. Each presents its own set of challenges. As pointed out earlier neck alignment has been my main concern with constructing set necks. However, the through neck can be cumbersome as you will have to plan your progress a bit more. I am going to disagree somewhat with Wes here. I believe you do have to have the wings glued to finish the neck. There is some amount of shaping that can happen prior to gluing the wings, but your heel should be done after gluing ev
  12. Say Primal, Since you obviously have experience with the DR strings. If you have one of them around, could you take a measurement for me? Could you tell me how long one of the Black Beautys is from ball taper to nut taper? I have a theory that all of their strings are a 40" scale. I ordered one of the Extra long scale sets and all of te part numbers were identical to the "normal" scale. I am wondering as I would prefer to have flatwounds on here. Thanks in advance, Wayne
  13. Naw no probelms with string width...the strings are 1/8 of an inch from the sides of the fretboard on each side. And if they were too close, that's the beauty of the Kahler bridge as it is adjustable side to side as well as front/back. But again, not problems with the spacing thus far. Here. This should put this controversy to bed
  14. As promised, below are the images of the completed bass. The bass is a 38" scale single cut/jazz bass. Project pics of its construction can be found at http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=6728 The body is one pice of Spalted Curly Maple. The headstock facing and truss rod cover were also taken from this spalted blank. The neck is a pieces of Mahogany/Maple The headstock has wings of Padaouk on each side. The fingerboard is made of Tulipwood with Hard Maple binding and Hard Maple inlay for the fret markers. The control knobs are also tulipwood. The side dots are Wa
  15. OK a few last teaser shots before the bass is complete. The nut has been cut ( I think I did an OK job for my first try.) The strings strung and the truss rod adjusted...(more on this later). The strings were removed to do the electronics. Copper shielding was installed in all cavities. THis really is some wonderful stuff. Easy to apply and looks fantastic when done. Very professional touch. The good stuff should be tomorrow.
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