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not sure what you mean by "hot leads", but the guitar was recently re-wired by a pro, and he added the same wiring as in a gibson LP. The cable from the guitar to Line 6 X3 Live is a standard 10 euro guitar cable. Cable between the X3 live and the neutral amplified speaker is an XLR cable ( similar to microphone cable i believe). Both speaker and pod are plugged into a 4 plug extension cord. My laptop is on a different extension lead, plugged into a different wall socket. when i turn on the laptop, the buzzing from my rig gets much louder. its very strange. I tried my guitar under a very similar setup but in a rehersal studio and got zero buzz, so im thinking it has to be a problem with interference somewhere

I have a fender strat that when new had a nice shiny rosewood fretboard. After a year or two of playing, despite oiling with bore oil twice a year, it has lost its luster. I want to bring back the shine but need to confirm the correct method that wont damage my guitar. I was going to touch it up with wire wool. Would i be better with a very fine sand paper?

In case it helps anyone, Ive discovered something interesting. The buzzing is not present when i plug into the same setup outside my house. In my house the buzzing is worse when my laptop is turned on, so im guessing its something to do with electrical interference. Il have to get something to even out the current used by my line 6 and speaker.

I have my tokai les paul copy (LS160) wired up with CTS pots. on both volume pots, when i have a really high gain tone set up at high volume, there is a constant deep hum from my speakers. Its only noticable on very high gain set up's, but it totally dissappears if volume is below 3 or above 8. It happens for both pots. Ive checked earthing and from a wiring perspective, everything is fine. is there a know issue with some pots where they are simply noisier in the middle of their range?

I got a 2009 Tokai LS 160. Awesome guitar, great fit and finish, but at higher gains it was going microphonic. I brought it in to have pickups repotted, by a very very very reputable luthier in the area, so i am not questioning if he did the job or not. But when practicing a few days ago, plugged into a 400 watt speaker and amp, going through a pod x3 live at, when at very high volumes, tapping the pick off the pickup causes the guitar to still go microphonic ( horrible squealing from pickups). Fair enough i was less than 3 foot from the speaker, but i thought that potting should resolve this completely. Guitar teacher said it sounds like the potting was not done correctly. Is it a case of 1. the job was not done correctly? 2. The pickups just cant handle the volume and i need different pickups? 3. Any guitar, no matter what the pickups will go microphonic that close to the amp/speaker at those volumes?

I have a pretty low action, and was getting some fret buzz in a new Les Paul. i measured neck relif at 6th fret and it was non existant. I adjusted the truss counter clockwise until i had about 0.010 inches of relief at fret 6. I would like a little more relif, but the truss nut is now lose enough that i can turn it with my finger, without the need for a wrench, as if its fully losened. is that normal? have i reached the end of the amount of adjustment i can do?

I just got a new LP Style guitar. It was re-wired by the original owner as he didnt like the way the volume worked. He said: In his defence, the volume pots work great and the volume is very responsive, dying out completely somewhere between 1 and two. But the tone controls now do nothing. i can turn them either way but they dont change the sound of the guitar for either pickup. is this because logarithmic pots dont work as tone pots, or does it sound like a botched wiring job? The pots currently wired up to the tone have the following written on them: EP086 500K 9046 CT Thanks for any help!

Thanks for the help guys. I removed the electrosocket as installed by the guy. it was superglued into place! when comming out it took a small chip of paint from around the edge of the socket hole. I was very annoyed as i like to keep my guitars as well as possible. I dowelled up the holes he made, then dowled up the holes from my previous attempts. Once the glue was dry,I got a carpenters Awl, carefully allgned the electrosocket and pushed holes through the center of the electrosocket screw holes. I didnt even need to drill as the holes were small enough and deep enough for the screws. Its not 100%, but its way better than my first attempt, and a gazillion times better than the pros job. Im annoyed about the chip, and keep telling myself its only a squier ( classic vibe tele) but its an awesome guitar and its still getting on my nerves. il just have to live with it. at least the electrosocket is in place now and solid as a rock. thanks for all the help guys, much appreciated. EDIT: one question folks. does anyone know of an electrosocket type socket, but with a bit of a lip? It would cover the chip nicely if i could get a cross between the electrosocket, and the old style tele socket.

I gave the guitar to a pro to have it fixed. Unfortunately, instead of filling the holes and reboring, he turned the electrosocket sideways and installed it. I was afraid that the screws would come out the side. what are your thoughts on this? i now see theres no chance of that, but im still not happy wtih it so im going to give it another shot. I will pick up an al or a punch tomorrow and rebore the holes after they have been filled with more toothpicks.

Thanks for the words of encouragement folks, its really appreciated. Ive tried fitting the socket twice now, crooked both times. Im sure this task is beyond simple to most folks on this forum, but for someone of my current skill level, how do i bore these holes so they are not crooked? My method so far was: hold the electrosocket in the socket hole. Draw in the holes in pencil so i know where they go. Drill holes at the angle of the screws with a 1.5mm drill bit, aiming for the center of the circle drawn in pencil. As you can imagine by now, having attempted this twice, drawing the circles in pencil isnt an option this time as its getting messy in there. All advice gratefully accepted. Thanks.

I recently purchased a tele with the old style socket. The socket kept comming lose, needing tightening after every playing session. To remedy this i purchased and installed an electrosocket. I drilled the holes slightly crooked and so the socket was slightly crooked, in that the lip of the electrosocket was slightly higher on one side than the other. I dowelled up the holes i drilled with toothpicks, let it set and rebored. its less crooked now, but still a little bit. Its barely noticable , and even then only from up close, but it drives me nuts, as I know its there, and its an inperfection in my new guitar. Ive learned never to try any DIY myself ever again so thats something. My question is, can any moderately competant luthier fix this easily enough or should this job be only entrusted to the best? Also, would you get this fixed, knowing that its almost un-noticable and doesnt affect the guitar at all?

This is the exact switch i purchased: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...sid=p2759.l1259 it is identical to the one that came out of the guitar, except the screws that held in the old switch wont work on this switch. i found some galvanized screws in my dads shed that work, but i need to get screws that match the guitar, black, countersunk domed screws. im unsure if the screws you specify in your previous thread will fit my new switch . if i can find a switch and screws together that might be my best bet. Thanks for the help

While fitting new pickups to my RGT-42, i buggered the 5 way cortek switch. I purchased an "Identical" one from fleabay. it is the exact same, same spacing for the screw holes and everything, but the screw holes are too small. the original screws wont fit. I dont have a set of thread taps to rethread the holes, and I cant find black, domed countersunk screws to fit the new switch. where can i get a switch and black screws that i know will go together, and fit my RG?

The problem with taking it to a tech is this. I live in Ireland, so there are very few folks who I would count qualified to do this. sure there are a few music stores, but I know more about guitars than they do. There is only 1 guy in ireland that anyone with sense will trust with their guitar. he actually sets up and has made guitars for U2. Derek Nelson is his name, but he is very expensive. a setup is gona be anywhere from 150 - 200 euros (150 - 260 dollars) , with a waiting list of 2-4 months. That amount of money is not to be sneezed away lightly on a setup so id rather get it sorted myself before parting with that much cash.

il give that a look, although on a fender deluxe, which is pretty darn expensive, if the frets are not level, its going to be sold on. if their Quality control is that bad that on the top of the range guitars, then they need to be abandoned. thanks for the advice.

I have an american fender stratocaster deluxe. I decided alter the guitar setup to see if i could improve it over the terrible factory setup. Ive put a capo on the 1st fret, held down the 6th string at the last fret and measured the string height at the 8th fret, to check the neck bow. Fender recommend 0.25mm of a gap between the fret and 6th string, for a 9.5 radius neck, which is whats on my Am strat deluxe. mine is currently at 0.5mm. I adjusted the truss to lower this but i get terrible string buzz then on the 5th and 6th strings, so this is the min i can get away with. This string buzz made me check the string height, at the 17th fret as recommended by fender. fender recommends 1.6mm +- .4mm. both the 5th and 6th string are a whisker over 2.5mm above the 17 fret. there is still fret buzz though, when i fret above the 12th fret on these strings. I really dont want to raise them any further. what can i do, seeing that the neck bow and string height are within fender recommended tolerances? all recommended measurements obtained here: http://www.fender.com/support/stratocaster.php The guitar has the microtilt system so i can alter the neck angle with that. would altering the neck angle at the butt of the neck , thus raising the end of the neck nearer the strings make a difference? Is the microtilt any good or should i shim? This really makes me question fenders quality control, if a top of the line guitar cant be set up with decent action and no fret buzz. thanks for any help.

I am in the process of upgrading an ibanez from the dodgy infinity pickups to a set of solid seymour duncans. i hear a lot of folks upgrade the pots also. My guitar currently has 200k pots. would there be any benifit of upgrading the pots? i have no idea what a different resistance pot will do so i need your advice. Thanks.

just gave the grounding on the bridge a look. its solid, its one of the wires i never touched. Thanks for the suggestion though.

I resoldered all of my joints, then realized i was messy with my solder the first time around, as solder had dripped down around two contacts of the switch, i just couldnt see it until i took out the switch. It still buzzes like crazy though. think im just gona have to bite the bullet and pay a pro to have a look at it. thanks for your help all.

thanks for the replies. whats a "Cold Solder Joint"? With regards to grounding, Both pickups are wired up as they were previously, with the bare wire soldered to the bottom of one of the pots. il give the solder joints a look. Regarding pickup height? should i be able to raise my pickups to touch the strings or is it normal for their max height to be a few mil before the strings?

As a further customization to my Ibanez RGT 42 i recently purchased a Seymour Duncan SB4 for the bridge and SB2 for the neck. It was my first attempt at soldering and although everything now works i still am having a few problems: 1. volume seems lower than with the old crap infinity pickups. as a result i have had to raise the pickups as high as they will go. the funny thing is though they are still 7-10 mm from the strings. shouldnt pickups be able to almost touch the strings? and do i have to change the pots now that i have different "hotter" pickups? 2. when the guitar sits on the bed on its own plugged in, there is constant crackling through the amp which for the most part goes away when i pick up the guitar and touch the strings, although it doesnt fully go away. Can you please offer me advice on this, as if i bring it to someone to repair, they will charge me extra, as rather than just install pickups they would have to rewire the whole thing. Thanks folks.

i have a schaller floyd rose. all i done was measure the gap between the trem block and the wall of the trem cavity when the trem is flush with the guitar top. i cut a piece of hard wood to fit in here and wedged it in.the trem block is not at an angle, it is perpendicular to the guitar face. im wondering if the trem block ( and trem) should be at a slight angle and not flush with the face of the guitar. The guitar hasnt been strung for over a month so i was thinkin that the neck needs time to settle back to being under pressure. not sure though

How did you go about blocking the trem? There is a correct way the bridge needs to lay. Just curious. ←

i have had nothing but trouble with a lot of floyd rose copies, mainly the low TRS II by ibanez, which couldnt hold a tune after a few mins playing. rubbish. but i replaced it with a schaller floyd rose from stew mac its fantastic. the bridge a bit over $200 if i remember 4 years ago. so i wouldnt advise cheaping out on this. might seem good now, but when your tuining your guitar 4 times for every hour of play you wont see it as a saving. trust me

i just blocked off my floating trem. im finding that i have to raise the bridge up really high to stop the strings hitting the frets when i fret above the 11 or 12 fret. the action on the 12th fret at the mo is about 3mm which i think is really wrong and should be no more than 2mm ( on the low E string). is it possible that as my guitar was without strings for the past month, the neck needs time to settle in again? ( its an ibanez super thin wizard II neck). also, until i get this sorted, is there any point in me attempting to adjust the intonation?