donbenjy

It's not a parker fly though It's hard to tell, but it kinda looks like there are slots in the board for tangs, though it's black on black, but there's definitely a change in material beneath the frets. Woodenspoke is right: it's just about 2.5mm from the end of the fret that's raised (about 3/4 of the way from the edge of the board to the e string). I think part of the problem is that the edge of the board has been very slightly scalloped - not the whole fretboard, just the very ends) - so that as the tip of the fret reaches the scallop, it sticks up ever so slightly. I would guess that the main raised part is about the thickness of a piece of paper: it's only the very end of the corner that catches the e string. yeah, it's perfectly comfy to play, though on further inspection there seem to be a couple more that are similar, but i think it's down to the scalloped edges more than anything. I did remember hearing about parker having some quality control issues, but the rest is the guitar is really well crafted. Apparently on the PM10s they use a 12" neck radius but a 10" ToM bridge too...not sure what effect this would have on anything? not sure whether I can really tell unless I made myself some templates! Cheers again guys, gonna take it in to a shop today, though I don't expect much from them!

yeah, I just checked that out...tbh it really doesn't seem like its a serious enough problem to warrant reseating the frets - especially as I have no experience with fretting. Although I do usually just do all maintenance on my guitars myself and I'm not afraid to try something, but fretting seems like an art rather than a simple job. Unless you think anyone can do it if they take their time?

it looks like the fret isn't curved enough to follow the radius on the neck. Although the fret seems to be seated properly, the edge of the bit you can actually see is raised in the corner closest to the body and the high e string. it isn't really noticeable until the string gets caught there really. I'll try and post some pictures in a few days if I can get that close...Anyone know how much this is gonna roughly cost me to have fixed? I've only played it for about 2 hours so far, so it may just be something I have to get used to really! It's got 9's on atm so when I put my standard 10's on the change in action/relief might means that it's not a problem anymore! So this isn't really something I can fix myself then?

Hey, I just bought a 2nd hand Parker PM10, which is a REALLY nice guitar for the money and it plays beautifully. There's only one small thing I have an issue with: The fretwire on the last fret is raised slightly from the fretboard at the end and when play hard, sometimes the e string gets caught on the lip, fretting a high d note in the middle of what I'm strumming. Now this is quite a cool sound for greenwood-esque stuff, but obviously really annoying when you're playing normal stuff! It may be that I'm playing quite hard because I'm trying to use a 30 valve amp in my halls and it's hard to find a workable volume, so I'll need to wait until I get to play it loud at the weekend before I take any action. Anyway, I'm comfortable working on my guitar, but have never done any fret work before, so what's the best way to address the problem? I could think of 3: 1] File down the tip of the fret - I don't own a suitable file though, and I would probably need to remove the whole wire and clamp it so I don't damage the neck/fretboard. I also don't have access to a shop right now, so this is probably the least likely. 2] Buy some suitable glue for frets and just put some in where it's lifting up to seal the hole 3] remove the whole fretwire and reset it from scratch. What's the best option do you guys think? with the glue, I'm conscious of getting any excess on the fretboard and neck. is that gonna be a problem or is it easy to remove with fret polish or something? Cheers guys Ben

Pete, what did you mean by the "paper bobbin"? I see no paper in your pictures! I'm wondering; has anyone tried to use an opamp circuit instead of the FR? I want to start winding, but I'd like to be able to test the driver ASAP - is there some kinda opamp circuit I could build (cos I have opamps) that anyone knows of? I'm pretty sure the LM thing is dead! My amp has an 8ohm speaker out...likely to work, or would it be too powerful and melt the enamel in the driver?

p00p! I can't get my F/R working AT ALL! I can get a hissing out of the speakers, and if I turnt he gain up, I get weird feedback, but absolutely no input signal. I thought it may have been the board, but I took stuff off and went back to the proto board, and still nothing happens! :S I'm wondering if the chip may be fried, cos I've tried everythin else. Removing the transistor whilst the thing is squealling has no effect whatsoever, and connecting the input to ground doesn't do anything either! I do have some standard opamps lying around, wondering if I could find an alternative opamp type amplifier as a replacement for proto-ing the driver. Update on the driling idea: it doesn't work I used a rechargable/cordless drill, and it was liek using a plastic toy on the steel! not a scratch. I was contemplating a hammer drill, but I keep geting images of severed fingers etc. So I'll save it for another, braver day, or get access to an angle grinder or just use a damn bobbin!

Yeah, I thought that bulging may be a problem, though I have no idea what kinda of effect it would have. I initially started thinking about cutting slots, but then I don't have many heavy duty power tools around, so unless I can work on it with a friend who does, then I'm gonna have to use a heavy duty drill bit to cut my blade. I don't really want to use a bobbin, because It'll add lots of excess bulk, and I don't want to deal with the issue of getting the width right to accomodate the windings without using extra space. The idea of just the blade means that the driver will be the smallest possible for the depth of the core, as it's only the windings that take up space. Ultimately, I'll probably use a single coil casing with the top chopped off, although I really like the idea of using a Tele style lipstick cover. Not too sure whether this too, would be magnetised. Can parellel coils use the same magnet, or are is one of them connected "RWRP" style for "humbucking?" (I.e. connected out of phase, but with an opposing polarity magnet, so the flux is still directed in the same direction)

hmm...I had an iunteresting musing over a bobbinless, but less messy driver, but I might be completely short of the mark here! If your core is thin enough (like a saw blade) take a suitible drill bit roughly the size of the depth of the core, and drill into the blade. Then you'll get a kinda of double ended "spanner" shape, kinda like the angling found on tuners, that force the string down into the middle. This will cause the windings to be pushed inward at each end, so providing you wrap tight enough, then it should work well. It does mean that the windings will be more dense around the centre of the core, rather than spread across the depth, but providing you can get the hole deep enough into the blade, you'll have no protrusion at each end of the core. Obviously it'll need to be ironed out, but is it feasible?

wow! I like the saw blade core idea! Why's there 4 blades on juan's design though? it's not a quad winding right? It looks as if I can't get into my P90, so I'm gonna have to seriously consider a mid driver anyway, so I may as well try, as long as 0.20mm wire is still ok to use? The AWG and SWG codes aren't meant to be easy to understand are they?! Not poked at my F/R since my last post, but I think I'll try to construct a saw-blade type dual driver anyway....the core for my single driver was a HUGE am antenna from a radio (plus I split it in the wrong place with a chisel :S) so I wasn't really happy about winding onto it. My first attempt is probably gonna be stupidly too big, but I can try!

yeah, I thought that, but if he's got a HB in series too, it's gonna sound well muddy...I just put a 1meg pot on the motherbucker (4 coils) in my strat and it's opened up so much! I've got a P90 in the neck and that sounds fine with 1meg

you think it's possible that you'll have a humbucker wired normally, with the coils in series? In that case, 500k is gonna be the only thing you can use!

if you wanted to have a switch that was on at both extremities but off in the centre postion (which is my favourite wiring for a killswitch), then you can't wire it like that, but it's fine to do it that way! are you looking to do some Tom Morello style killswitching, or just to turn the output of your guitar off btw? that'd make a difference to what you bother with

Bareknuckle are very highly revered..depends what type of music you're playing though, I assume it's kinda Satch, Vai type stuff if it's a JEM (apologies if I've made a generalisation). If it is that style, I don't know if bareknuckles are the best... EMGs are good i guess, but an EMG in a squier strat sounds pretty much like the same pickup in a custom luthiered job, so you won't get the tone of the wood as much as with a passive pickup. I'd just like to point out that about 80% (probably more) comes from your amp, and alot is controlled by what FX you use... the old saying: crap guitar -> awesome amp= awesome tone amazing guitar -> crap amp = crap tone It sounds slightly like you're expecting pickups to be the be-all and end-all of your tone, which they really aren't. Sure they play a part, but so does everything right down to your strings! I'm not saying don't get good pups, but don't go overboard and end up dissapointed! good luck!

I know it sounds really complicated, but really it's just one wire! It's just hard to explain it in the context of the weird layout on the rotary switch! but yeah, a toggle is much easier to use as a killswitch anyway I don't know what you'd prefer, but I can do a schematic of an even easier one for you that goes on/off/on, which you can't do that way...

I'm thinking 250k might sound better actually. The dc resistance of the whole wiring will be half that of a regular single coil (1/9k *4 = 1/4.5k) so 500k would be like using a 1 meg on a single coil! "Dude", are you having this as hard wired, or switchable?