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sirenguitars05

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  1. thankyou, i think your logic makes good sense. It would be a good idea to look down the road at re-fretting. thanks for your input.
  2. THANKS! i really appreciate all the help. you guys have really helped me figure out one of my many mysteries to guitar building.
  3. thanks! i usually use a pre-slotted fret board. So when i do the inlay do i let the material overlap into the inlay for a tight fit and then cut it out with a fret saw or do i try to just get it close and then use filler. what if the inlay i want to do is kinda wide at one point and there is a possibility that the inlay would take most of the fret slot? thanks for the great reply.
  4. I have done a few inlays before but i have never done one that travels up the neck. I was wondering if when you route out the cavity for the inlay if you route all the way to the fret lines or if you leave a little space between where the frets will be and the inlay. what i mean is, does the inlay get routed through the fret slots or just up to them. any help would be appreciated. thanks
  5. i have heard of people using flash paper that tattoo artists use. i have talked to a couple of artists and they say laying the flash on the guitar would be easier than doing it on skin. other than that i would agree that using seral paper that automotive painters use would be a good choice. You can get rolls of it at eastwood.com. its an automotive paint supply company. I believe the stuff is called sticky mickeys. good luck.
  6. i recently read an article in american woodworker of a guy who built a curing cabinet out of plywood and used incandescent bulbs to heat. He also installed a thermostat like the one you would put in your car to regulate. it apparently heated the box to around 125 F. I don't know much more about this but i plan on researching this for finishing in my garage. i don't know if this will solve any of the problems of finishing in the winter but i figure it is a start. Please correct me if you know anything beyond this. good luck.
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