Hardball

I have been trying to work out what I want to do with it, but like music, nothing I "invent" has not been done before. The problem with my design is just that. I thought I had a fairly unique body variation of a strat, and lo and behold there is one exactly like what I was doing already on this site, no less. Hadn't seen it before I got everything drawn up, and figure I am gonna stick with it anyway. I can gut the plan, but why not "do it on the fly" when I am down to the body shaping? The plans I have drawn are finished, but they are going to be tweaked, which is why I am going to throw extra room in for what ever I decide to do with the headstock. I think I'll throw in that extra 1 1/2" as mentioned before and draw it 8 1/2" to leave plenty of room. Thanks for the replies. I am well aware of the plan to build and build to plan. Not my very first rodeo, but I couldn't visualize where I am currently what length would be safe. Hope to be home soon and with pictures to share. (Of the build.)

Guys, I am in the middle of designing a guitar, and have no idea what I am going to do with the headstock at present. I am away from my house, and have to VPN in to get to the internet (don't ask, I can't answer), so where I am is rather... out of the way so to speak. I know that one of my guitars has a headstock, measuring from the rear of the locking nut to the longest tip, of around 7" at about a 13° angle. Another of my guitars has a headstock length of approximately 6" from the nut (not locking) at approximately an 11° angle. These were measured by my son who has no real clue what he is doing when looking at a tape measure and relayed to me over the phone. I have decided to stick with the PG "standard" of 13° angle but I have no idea what I am going to shape the headstock to look like. So... My real question is, what would be a good "average" length of headstock to design in to ensure that I can do whatever comes to mind during build time? 7"? Should I leave extra "just in case"? I am going to have a friend laminate the wood (maple and purpleheart... I loved the look of whoever did that a couple of years ago) and pre-cut it from my plans when I email them to him so that when I get home I can start to fly on it. I will be unemployed when I get home, so I figure I could take a bit to build something that I will enjoy for a while before I start getting serious about working my life away again. Opinions please. Oh, and "Mr. Calvert", I will be back in Florida very soon. Can't tell you where I am presently, but it isn't close. I remember you saying something about coming to the east coast and meeting up a couple of years ago. If it's still an option, I would love to.

Americas Army.

It's always been my experience that the company that goes out of business does so because of a lack of profit, not because of profit potential. They got so little recognition when they were in business that they couldn't stay in business. Now that they are out of business, those who appreciated them are now demanding more money for the product that now no longer get's manufactured. Seems like supply and demand to me.

Thanks again. 3/4" to 7/8" isn't bad. Now had it been the other way around, well, I would have shimmed and nobody would have known the difference. Thanks for measuring for me guys, I appreciate the help and will post pics of the new guitar as soon as I can get them developed. Almost finishing time! I am getting stoked and have to force myself to chill and not try to "hurry" and get it done. Slow and steady all the way through, get it done right the first time, and make the mistakes while playing it. I know there are a few things that will change on the next one I build and there are things that I could have done easier with the proper tools. Limited budget, (3 kids, 2 dogs, 2 cats, and a now wrecked car) dictates that we buy tools when we can. We improvise when we can't. This is a simple strat guys, so don't hold your expectations of me too high as of yet.

Thanks, Wes. I do appreciate it. For the life of me I couldn't find that dimension anywhere.

Could someone who has either please give me a measurment on the height of the pickup from the bottom of the mounting tabs to the top of the pickup please? I have looked on EMG's site but they only show the outer dimensions and don't get a height. I don't have my pickups yet as they are on a backorder and won't be here for a bit so I want to get the pickup pockets routed and everything else done on the guitar that I am currently building. I would like to hard mount the pickups so the depth of the cut is a bit more critical than that of a "suspended" pickup. Thanks in advance. Chris

Well, I fully intended to make it to the show Friday night, and then again tonight. I, however, have had to deal with a wrecked car and a sore wife. Sorry guys.

Oh, damn. I have lived down here for a while. Walk down I-Drive anywhere and there are plenty of places to hammer some brain cells into submission.

I do hope you are talking about the I-Drive in Orlando. Hell, that is pretty close to me. I think I will need a double XL Brian.

I like it as is. I like the fact that it looks like a good flame job. I had my current project designed to look like flames (with the cut) until I saw this one. I don't think I am gonna do it now. (Don't wanna overplay an idea, nor do I want to be accused of "stealing" an idea.) I will post the "plans" that I had drawn up. Looks like a strat body, but with a flame job cut into it with multi-layered effect like a carved top. Damn, I guess my engineering professor was correct when he said that there are no new ideas, just new applications. . I might still do mine, just because it is different, but it is close to yours. Great work man, I like it. When I get some $ together I might just have you build one for me. For my first project, I feel that I am doing alright, but from what I see, I have a long way to go to get where I want to be.

Gotta be something with my computer. Again I get a weird error I have never seen before.... <meta http-equiv="reply-to" content=" Is exactly what it comes up with, hence my post about the web page. Thank you Brian.

I can't get the main page to PG.com for some odd reason. Could one of you please post the url to the inlays page so that I can bookmark it? Thanks in advance.

It is important on a FR to "stretch" the strings once you have them in tune using the tuners when the strings are new. Gently pull the string up till it puts more tension on it than normal and let it "pop" back. Once this has been done several times the strings will find their natural "length", stop bouncing out of tune when you let it pop, and you can then lock them down once in tune with the fine tuners doing their job. I have been playing Floyds for a long time now and every time I change the strings I spend about five minutes on each string until it no longer "stretches" while tuning. Setup on the FR is not that difficult if you understand the mechanics of them. There is a balance between string tension and spring tension that has to be met. Sometimes it may be necessary to actually stretch the springs, or change to a lighter set of springs to enable the trem to balance with whatever guage string you are using. I personally have used Ernie Ball Super Slinky .09's for at least 15 years, maybe more. They seem to stretch faster, and are easier to keep in tune with the Floyd.

Save the file from AutoCad on a disc as a .dwg file if it isn't already and take it to any surveyor blueprint copy service around your area. There should be a blueprint supply place that can take that file and print it straight on blueprint paper. Make sure that the drawing is to the correct scale before you take it and get it printed, but some will adjust for you if necessary. Usual prices should be between $1.45 and $2.50 per page. It is quite worth it to have true scale plans.

As an engineer, I would naturally assume that the screw type are more easily adjusted for height, etc. but would naturally be a weaker joint by nature. They also seem to me to run the risk of splitting any wood not predrilled exactly right. The pressed bushing type seem to be, from what I have studied lately (on my own project's layout), the way to go. The depth of the press fit bushing has to be exact and the angle and location of the cut have to be exact on either one. My only concern is ease of replacement/removal, etc. without risk of tearing up the guitar. Correct me if I am wrong, please. Just my $.02.

Just moving air into a point on the top of the water where the oil paint is floating causing the oil paint to spread out in an area large enough to pull the guitar out so that you don't have any paint cling to it on the way out of the bath. Think of it as a paint brush applying the paint as you sink it into the water/borax/oil paint mixture. Then you want to lift the paint brush off so that you don't apply on the way up so you move the paint away from the guitar as it comes out.

Ok, I have taken some pics. As I get them developed and scanned (Yes, I use a 35 mm camera from work. It is a good camera that we use to take pics for engineering decisions, so....) I will get them posted. Thing is, I hate having to buy as I go. (I have three kids and a $50 a week allowance for building the guitar. ) I am currently waiting on Stewmac to deliver some goods so I can proceed. In the mean time I am trying hard not to go work on something as I am at a stage in the neck through that I have to wait for the truss rod installation before I do anything else. Waiting sux and I know when that box arrives I will be like a kid at Christmas.... Thanks for all of the input guys....

amdmonster, in the tutorial it states oil paint. Thanks for the tutorial! Much appreciated.

While on the expensive side, try Wood Craft. They have both spoke shaves and draw knives that are well built.

I am in Florida. As for the Zebrawood, I have a stockpile of it here. I typically make grips for 1911's with it as I build competition and high end pistols. The Zebrawood that I am using is very dry and very tight. It takes "checkering" well when we make grips out of it, and maintain the checkering through much service, so I thought I would give it a try. Very good looking IMO. If you think it will deaden the sound, then maybe I should think about it. Pale moon ivory..... I have seen it used once on grips, and a couple times elsewhere. I imagine it is expensive? I will see if I can find a source. I love the look. Who knows, if it doesn't have the sound I am seeking, my son will have a guitar and I will have to try yet again. . Learning as I go... Thanks for the pointers.

I will throw pics in as soon as I can get some going. You guys have "inspired" me to build the guitar that I have always wanted, and was too broke (three kids, almost all in their teens now ) to buy. We shall see. It will either be the first mistake and be worth the parts, or it will be my first "high end" guitar. Neck through, Cherry neck (I have had a cherry 4x4 sitting in the garage for at least five years and it is a cheap first timer). Swamp Ash "wings" which will be painted Chevrolet Metallic Onyx Black (Love the color). I like the idea of a red cherry center with black wings, and a "penstripe" on both wing joints. (Helps hide the fact that my jointer isn't as good as I wish it were.) All finished off with a clear coat. Going Floyd Rose (Schaller), EMG 81, and Grover tuners. Any advice before I finish cutting the neckthrough? As far as truss rod, do's and don'ts, etc.? *Edit: Forgot to mention that the fretboard is going to be Zebrawood. Love the "peanutbutter and chocolate" swirl look.

Well, with my post, I in no way intended to sound like a filing know it all, or make the impression that my way is the right way. I am a fairly laid back person and I hope I didn't come across that way. I just know that, through my experience with files, it can go bad quickly and you will never see it coming unless you are "practiced" with your technique. Make sense? Again, I do hope that I didn't come across high and mighty, God knows I have a lot to learn on guitar building. Guns, now, I know. Anyone want a custom built 1911? That I can do. Any advice I have gathered here has been much appreciated, I was trying to help in an area that I am well versed in. (Filing metal )

Try mxtabs.net yet? If not, they have a plethera of music on there.

Metal work, by nature is entirely different from woodwork. When cutting metal (I.e. stainless frets, gun parts, etc. I am speaking as a gunsmith that builds $2000 guns.) a great deal of finesse is needed to ensure that the metal is taking the same turn you are. When I file a sear on a pistol, I am enclined to always file in a single direction. Fine, flat filing requires a lighter than normal touch, with a bit of patience thrown in as an aside. Visual reference when filing correctly should be a shiny surface, with minimal divot in the metal. No one tooth is cutting more, deeper, or harder than another. The finer the file, the more patience is needed to ensure that both the file and the "filee" (the metal being filed ) survive intact and in shape. The same pressure applied to the "grip" hand should be applied at the fore end of the file with the "non-grip" hand. Compound filing on any metal surface is best perfected with a fine file that has a handle that is as large as comfortable in your hand. Minimal wrist/hand movement and higher leverage means that a smaller chance of misfile due to uncontrolled motion in the file end. When I compound file, I leave "no" pressure on the fore end of the file, other than to wrap my thumb around the top end of the file for pivot contol. When I say that "no" pressure is applied, I mean simply that I put nothing on that end of the file other than the weight of my thumb. Hard to practice, but once masterd, it is something that becomes second nature. At no time while filing either flat surfaces or compound surfaces do I let the file "leave" my control. I also clean my files after every ten strokes with a wire file brush. This keeps buildup of metals from becoming slick and/or a gouge in the metal.