Jump to content

lmmr

Members
  • Posts

    49
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About lmmr

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lisbon, Portugal

lmmr's Achievements

Contributor

Contributor (5/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. In conjuntion with an Inclinometer and Myka's Neck Pocket Jig i'd say this would be the best way to go about making a neck angle
  2. i use this saw rasp for rough shaping and i get great results with it, it only takes you 30 minutes to rough cut an arm and belly contour on a body with this animal.
  3. i used one of those, bought it from axminster, didn't like it much though, mine went dull pretty fast and i was just testing it of mdf templates..
  4. another idea for reducing size is use a smaller scale length, like putting a capo on the 5th fret, take that as the nut and work out the measurements from there.
  5. There are special surface trim bits that you can use, if you want, i used the biggest bit i had and it worked just fine
  6. i had the some problem and i solved it by using the router, make up a base for the router to ride on, plunge to router until the bit touches the face of the fingerboard plus a little bit more and cut, then keep lowering the router little bits at a time until you reach the desired thickness.
  7. GuitarMaestro: That's probably it, i think he's using a neck from another guitar so this would be the most direct way to go about it
  8. it's looking pretty good so far, just a question, isn't the headstock a little too thick? what kind of tuners are you going to use? About radiusing, is there such a thing as a 12" radius scraper, i'm thinking that such a scraper would yield much better results than a sanding block, plus it would be much easier to check when the fretboard reaches the correct radius and taking out high spots
  9. what about stability issues? you're gonna have a pretty wide neck, can a single truss rod cut it?
  10. i don't have a bandsaw also so i went to a carpenter shop and ask them to cut the portion of the headstock to a 13º angle, then i used this jig to smooth the joint, i was working on a scarfed joint but i guess the same principle applies.
  11. just curious, would a normal drill press be adequate to serve as a substitute for a regular arbor press? edit: typo
  12. thanks jay5, really cool stuff! i just finished my first fretting job, this would/will definitely come in handy!
  13. Now this is what i call a great link! Been looking for a long time for a decent wood supplier in Europe with accessible prices, thanks a bunch helge!
  14. that's pretty cool indeed, i destroyed my first neck due to the side load that is was putting and didn't even noticed it, until it was too late of course...
  15. well, it sure has been a long time since my last update, this has a good reason, i had to toss the neck i was building, my home-made pattern sander was not sanding my neck square so i ended up with a neck with a taper across it's width, not very good for fitting it in the neck pocket. Here is a pic of the neck of where i'm at right now: The specs were changed a bit, i am now using an ebony fingerboard, i also used a ebony veneer on the headstock so i've got a maple neck completely covered in ebony. The board has been radiused (12") and the first 17 fret slots have been cut, 7 to go still. Also did some work on the body (sapelli), sanding it down to the line, next up is cutting the neck pocket, i'm using a Schaller 3D6 bridge, i'm not sure yet if i'm gonna put a neck angle in it or not. Hopefully will have some more pictures soon.
×
×
  • Create New...