SMellmo

This may help. http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/luthiers-c...3a-3b-body.html

It's been a while since i posted updates on the project. Well here it is! about half of the neck was fretted using the 5$ fret press found on this forum. It worked really well. The other half was done it the good ol' rubber hammer. Fretting ended up being easier than expected. I don't know if i will leave the headstock blank or if i will add some inlay. I thought my initials ( CL )might look good Any Suggestions?

I am in the finishing stage of my LP build. Grain filler seems to be hard to find where i live. I've checked at home depot and other local hardware stores (there are no "real" woodworking store near me). Most of the grain filler i've found are waterbased pore filler.. the kind you use to cover nails holes in mouldings. I just can't find source for mcfadden or behlen filler(and products) in Canada. I was browsing through stewmac website looking for the colortone dye when i found their grain filler . Since it is waterbased i can order it from the US. I planned on using nitro clear. Since the grain filler is waterbased, would they react together?

I routed the top to the neck angle i calculated. Then, I routed the neck pocket. I carved the top after. I thought it would be easier to route the neck pocket with the template laying flat on top of the body. But like you said there are many ways of doing it!!

I used to work for a company that makes return conveyors for woodworking machinery(edgebander, shaper.... ) We often used urethane belt that was very similar(if not the same) as the bandsaw tire. It came in rolls and we cutted it to length and soldered it together with a simple 100watts soldering iron. Then we trimmed the excess with some cutters. it was very strong. Too bad i don't remember the belt brand...

I bought the bindings from stewmac. They are plastic cream bindings. I have slotted the fingerboard then i glued the bindings. i will remove the fret tangs on the edge before installing them. That's my dobe girl! She's always willing to spend time with me in the garage when i'm working my guitar or other project.

hi everyone! I've started this build around last april or may. I figured it was about time i show it here! I really work on it in my freetime and when i feel like it so i'm quite a slow builder...! heh The main reason for this is a couple of years ago i started another LP but i ended rushing it because my girlfriend and i were moving in together and buying a house ... you know... this kind of stuff.... so i rushed it too much and made too wayyy many mistakes. This build was a good experience on what not to do . So anyway fast forward 3 years, here's the new LP: The carve is not completed. It is actually roughly shaped. I used the Saf-T planner to do the "steps" then i took my orbital sander to smoothen the steps. I will drill the TOM holes then i will complete the carve and don't worry! the flat spot in the middle of the body will go away! Here's the specs: standard LP shape with a AANJ (i was inspired by Marcovis' LP build) Mahogany body with lightly flamed maple top Mahogany neck, Gibson 24 3/4" scale unbound headstock with the usual gibson headstock Macassar ebony fingerboard with traditional trapeze inlay Nickel hardware Cream bindings on body and neck still undecided about the headstock inlay Finish will probably be Honey burst or something similar More pics available at: http://s283.photobucket.com/albums/kk285/brunz0/ This was my first inlay experience. It was actually easier than i thought. I took my time and i'm quite pleased of the result. feel free to comment Thanks ! Charles.

Yes I'll add a maple top over the mahogany. Like you said i'll go with a dark stain for the side and back!

Killemall8 i used a level as a fence and i routed the tear out section with a bearing guided bit, then i cutted an oversize piece of mahogany that was perfectly square so it would fit in the routed section. I glued it in then i sanded/scraped the exceeding part. six_stringer Yes i will use bindings to "seperate" the mahogany from the maple top. I was aiming the Gibson Lp Classic burst... maybe if i "lower" the binding into the mahogany it would make it less visible. The repair on the side is about 1/4" high. If i manage to make maybe half disappear behind the binding, that would look like just a little blemish. (still suck but i don't really feel like starting over because of this!) otherwise i could make my own burst color mix to hide this. I remember seeing somebody here on PG that built a LP and sanded through the maple on the top. He did a dark burst and it looked ok.

I started building my lp-style guitar yesterday and when i routed the body using the template, the LAST inch decided to tear out. It disappeared into the air. I searched but i did not found the missing piece. So i routed the broken part off the body and i glued a piece of mahogany to "fill" the missing piece. The problem is: it is still quite visible. I somehow did not succesfully match the grain. Since i would like to stain this guitar honey burst. I need to do something about it. Should i cut it and start over the repair ? Pics: http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk285/brunz0/PICT0341.jpg http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk285/brunz0/PICT0342.jpg B plan is to stain it very dark so it does not show through the stain. C plan is to go with a solid color....... Any suggestions ?? Thanks, Charles.

the thing is i'm trying to figure out what scale was used with the templates. Ron already told me that it was 24.750" BUT when i measure the centerline from the side of the nut to the center treble post of the bridge, i have 25"..... I know that there must be something i don't understand correctly. also, does anyone have the missing drawing shown in this topic? http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=5188

I have just received my LP Deluxe template from guitarbuildingtemplate and i'm about to start making sawdust. I was reviewing measurement before actually starting the build(I messed one build up by not planning everything before starting... I don't want it to happen on this one....) Ron @ guitar building template told me this template set has a 24,75 scale. How do you measure the scale with a tune o matic. I have read 24,75, some other place say that 24,75" is in reality 24,625"... And stewmac sells 24 9/16" fingerboard... I have sure it has been explained before, I just couldn't find the answer....

Do you have any pics of the neck joint unpainted? I am about to start my LP build (just awaiting the templates...) and that type of neck joint is growing on me! I just have to choose if i want the standard one or this sort of all access neck joint on mine. Beautiful work by the way ! Charles.

Ok my memory is playing tricks on me ... A standard les paul top is 3/4" thick right ?

I'm thinking about building my first acoustic guitar. I do not have all the knowledge to feel confident starting my first build. Do you have any lutherie book recommandation?

Who is that Ron Kirn? I mean, what's his company name ?

title says it all! If anyone have a set of tele template for sell, let me know ! Thanks !

I'm not sure if I saw it before or not on Projectguitar... anyone have the plan of a rickenbacker 4000serie bass? I realy love those basses. It might be my next project!

I found it ! Thanks Ben !

I have seen it before, but I just can't find it anymore with the search engine. There was a picture of a Les Paul top with the topographic lines to do the carve. Anybody have it ?

Do you know a fret calculator online that allow you to print the measurement to scale ?

hi there! I'm slowly getting all the infos i need in order to do my first real build. (Lots of preparation, I don't want to screw up!) I was playing with Stewmac Frets Calculator and I compared the result with my Gibson SG. I know my SG have a 24.625" scale. When I measure from the nut to the most forward TOM post it does indicate 24 5/8. The measure at the 13th fret is 13.004" (let's say 13"). If I Measure at the 13th fret with a steel ruler, the 13 inch is not in the center of the fret, but at the edge. I've checked with my Charvel (25.5" scale) And I get the same kind of result..... How does it works exactly ???? (This makes me think that I'll be better off with a pre-slotted fingerboard blank..... but I would really like to do the slotting myself....)

how do you apply this ?? spray gun of with a rag ?! what kind of varnish is compatible with this ? ← when i'm finishing the body i use a cheap bristle brush and flood the entire thing, let it soak in for a few minutes then wipe and let cure. on the neck i generally use an old t-shirt so that i can control it better. just wipe it on, let it soak in for 10 minutes or so and then wipe off the excess. let it cure a few hours after the first coat then apply and wipe again. then let the second coat and all subsequent coats dry over night. add coats until it looks and feels like you want it to. as for what kind of varnish..just your basic garden variety varnish. you can substiture polyeurathane if you like. i use boiled linseed oil and regular turpentine. you can use paint thinner if you like instead of turpentine but i like it because when you can't smell it any more your work is totally cured. good luck. ← Would the turpentine or the thinner "attack" the plastic black dots inlay ??

how do you apply this ?? spray gun of with a rag ?! what kind of varnish is compatible with this ?

I want to have the feeling of bare wood on the neck of my next guitar. what should i use ? true oil, tung-oil, wax, etc...?!?! Obviously, I do not know the difference between these products. i need some info ! thanks !