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Maiden69

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Everything posted by Maiden69

  1. Well, that didnt work as planned. After ohm'ing out the switch, its a regular Fender style switch. I ended up using a diagram from Seymour Duncan, which was wrong... it had me grounding both volume and tone (you can tell its been a long time for me because I should had known better), I ended up having 1. Neck pup 2. Both 3. Bridge pup 4. Both north coils 5. Neck north coil I must admit that 4 and 5 sounded way better than I expected. It sounded like single coils with balls, instead of the slinky single coil sound you get from a regular strat.
  2. yeap... thats the same way I read it. Now lets hope the INS1 and 2 are the same as the QMS1 and 2... and not inverted as other Ibanez guitars
  3. Found this diagram in an Ibanez forum. Using this I think it will work...
  4. yeap... that's what's holding me up on it... The problem I have is that there is no model number on the 5 way switch that I have. It's not a Stew Mac, but the one that came with the Ibanez. I guess I am going to have to solder it this way and see what it is actually doing. I may start by checking the resistance between poles and positions to see where do they actually go and make a simplified schematic on each of the 5 positions. I like a challenge, but this is almost a freebie to a friend from church... so I am not getting paid to do it. Will post up with my results so that it may help the next person attempting to do the same down the road. Thanks,
  5. Hi guys, long time I don't post here as I haven't been actively building guitars for a while. I have an Ibanez J model that came with a H-S-H set up. The owner wants to remove the SC and use the 5 way... which is normally pretty easy. Well, the pick ups on this guitar are 3 wire pups. I found this diagram online, the only one I have been able to find by the way with two 3 wire humbuckers and a 5 way switch. My issue is that looking at the schematic, it doesn't make sense to me... can someone with more experience in this look at it and see if they think it's correct? I was just going to wire it, but after looking at my old stock, I only have long shaft 500k pots, so I just placed an order for 2 short shaft pots from Stew Mac.
  6. Thanks Wes... yeah, definitely the 2300, that the one I used on my last build. What's the name of the shop in Austin? My wife and me go to Ikea about once a month if possible, so I definitely can drop by on the way there. I was also told to go look at Alamo Hardwoods here in San Antonio, but with the latest chaos in my life ( 2 surgeries and one more due in April) I placed it on hold. I am finally cleared by the doc, so I am about to start working on things that I put on hold about 2 months ago. Thanks for the replies!
  7. Checked the link and following. This is minda what Brian had at the begining. I liked the different sections. Wood/inlays/hardware/finishing... etc. Does that page exists archived that we could pu it out and make it available even with broken links? It would at least help for reference to the new page.
  8. Scott... where do you get Kahler? I bought mine from Wammi but nkw they only sell parts and Kahler USA prices are out of the question right now. I payed 199 for my USA 2300 hibrid and Kahler got them for 349 right now. For that price I may just go the Floyd route. I do live the fixed Kahler....
  9. Thanks Scott, completely forgot about Guilmer...
  10. Guys, finally getting back into building. I chased cars for a little bit, and still got another GTO that I won't be getting to work on (for sale soon you Texas folks) and I am so out of the loop that almost all my old bookmarks with parts sites are dead. One of my to-go place was Guitarspartsdepot... but that is no longer active. Where do you guys go for parts? Original Floyds, wood, hardware, P'ups? Any one local to the San Antonio area that knows about a good but not outrageously expensive hardwoods place? There is one selling mesquite for furniture, and I contemplated using some for a neck or neck insert, from all the info in their store, it is harder than maple, but softer than ebony. Got a little over 2 years to retire, so I think I can start investing into more tools and equipment to start this as a side job once I get a regular 9-5 work. Thanks for any info, I will be reading through the threads here...
  11. Both guitars turned out very nice but I'm partial to blue... so I think that one looks better.
  12. That turned out great! Body carved is sharp and flows great with the body shape!
  13. At what temperature you are painting? I have painted with 2K paints at close to 65 degrees outside with no booth at all without any problems. Those paints are not meant solely to be baked. 75% or more of the car painters don't have an oven. Here, not a guitar but I painted this lowers at about 65 degrees. The day before this happened, and they still cured fine. With 2K the most important thing is time. You need to follow it, if you let the paint dry, it will not stick unless you scuff it. Temperature is also important, but that is why they sell different temperature reducers, so you can adjust how fast or slow it will flash depending on the temperature you will be spraying. I don't have a booth, and never had an issue with my guitar, motorcycle or car paint at all.
  14. I read some of the replies, but I can tell you that you are waiting too long for the last clear coat. Most paint manufacturers recommend between 5-15 min flash time between coats. Anything more than that and you have to sand with 1500 grit in order for the last coat to adhere. Other than that, I think that there could be a possibility that the base coat is not compatible with the clear you are using.
  15. If I was working on that guitar, I would go ahead and touch up the entire top. It looked good bare, but as soon as you painted it, all the flaws on the carve showed up big time. Get a grinder and some flap wheels and practice on some scrap pieces. Once I got use to them, they are the best tool I have found to shaping. Once you get it close to perfect, sand it all the way to 400 and prime it. Get a good primer also if yo u are using automotive paints. Don't go with cheap rattle can stuff and have the paint lift it or end up with a chemical reaction that will make the primer turn to rubber. Like Wes said, also don't use that "glazing putty" it is the worst thing you can use. It is intended for filling up pin holes, and not contouring. Get a 2 part glaze, Dolphin glaze is cheap, and flows nicely for guitars. Bondo is good too, but you have to know how to spread it as it is less forgiving as glaze, with glaze having the added bonus that it sands as easy as primer does. Use guide coats once you prime it to check on low/high/un even areas. Once all is good, then paint the guitar. All you should need is may be 1 dust coat and 1 full coat of color and 1 tack coat and may be 2-3 medium coats of 2K poly.
  16. Ah, got it. Yeah, I know what you mean about those little things that probably nobody will notice, but you know they are there... I'm the opposite when it comes to deep carve bodies, I think that it gives another dimension to figured tops. I definitely need to finish this turbo project I'm doing on my car to start building some guitars again.
  17. Wes, why don't you round up those control holes and deep carve the body? I'm sure it will make it look much better. I think that the combination of woods looks spot on with the birdseye maple, so may be it's an aesthetics thing?
  18. The PRS headstock suits a lot of shapes, especially double and single cuts, so I think that it looks good there.
  19. I went to his house a few times in 2005 when I was in Korea, great guy. We worked on guitars till about 10pm because if I was there any late I will miss the subway's going back to my base. In fact Imissed the last connection in one of those trips and ended having to get a cab for the last few miles. Last I saw him was in 2008 when he came to NY on a business trip and drove all the way to MD where I was stationed to visit. Since then I have PM'd him a few times but have gotten no reply.
  20. Looks very clean. It reminds me of Hyunsus guitars, he rarely painted them and the finish was very natural like yours.
  21. turning out great wes, that neck joint looks very clean!
  22. I was going to say to shape it like a girls curves, as that is what I see when I'm carving my tops, but don't shape it like the girl in your poster, as it will end up looking like a Steinberg guitar.....
  23. I think that the main reason I don't like it is that to me it's so simple to adjust the neck angle and height with a full size neck than playing around and making all the measurements for the tenon. I got nothing against the sound of (propertly set) Gibson necks.
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