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pauseflash

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  1. If I'm not mistaken, which could be, The slug on a pearly gate is wound more then the screw side, to not give the massive sound dive when switching it. At least in comparision to the 59. Lindy Fralin also does this with the unbucker. Only they wind the majority of theirs on the screw side of the house. Hagstrom also does this with their humbuckers as they come factory split and they were designed for the fact. I did not intended for the thread to imply that the pickup was made for single coils, but they were designed to be lower output then most HB's. Which has, shown through trial and error, to blend well with single coils. The orignal thread did not state there was no volume dive, just less.
  2. Answer your questions to both... nope. The pearly gates are designed to work well with Single Coils.... meaning a low output for a HB. Most the time splitting it doesn't yield as big as a difference as with other HB's.
  3. Eh. I looked at the schemies finally. Check your ground on the entire thing. Both Of those controls are sharing ground, I'm assuming it's chassis ground as they are pots. Clean out around them, and take a brillow pad to where the pot sits. Looking at your picture, it looks as though you have 2 conductor power plug on there. Change it too a 3 pronger, put ground on the chassis. Tie off the cards "Ground" to the same tie off point. I'm sorry to say that just by looking at it, there are a few different caps and resistors, and a Transistor that could all cause that problem. As well as grounds. I suspect grounds myself, all kinds of stuff is trying to use that pot as ground me thinks, by the way the schematics look at the lugs you described. IMHO fix the ground problem, then report back. One more thing, check the bias adjust on that 220k pot. If you read the notes it says to adjust for max output undistorted. If that pot is shot it could at least describe the poor output. I wish I could give you the resistor number but not labeled well on this thing. Should be only trim pot inside the thing though. Assuming I'm not going crazy, those are all damn circles are the Board Terms, so it should be coming straight off Term 2.
  4. thats really hard. Like asking a "Humbucker Sound" or "Single Coil". Many people make their own P-90's. Thats like saying that Guns and Roses, Tool, and lets go with Foo Fighters all Sound the same. They are all indeed humbucker users. Or Red Hot Chili Peppers, and Stevie Ray Vaughn... Best advice, go to a music shop and play em to see.
  5. I dont really post much here, but this one kinda made me bite. Little story, World Famous golfer, is getting interviewed. Some reporter asked him what kind of golf ball he used. His response: "Lady, if the type of golf ball you use makes a difference on if you win or not playing golf, you need to be the pro.. not me" I love that, and it rings true here. I understand from a building stand point that the placement becomes important. But I firmly believe you should play "Comfortably" and not worry about the location so much of your picking hand. It's such a little thing in such a huge mix. Room acoustics, Amp selection, Cables, Strings, Tuner used even, I would bet would have just as much as an effect on tone. To each his own by all means, but if where your hand is placed on the guitar really makes that huge of a difference in "your tone", I need to hear you play. Cause I would hope you are that amazing. I really dont mean to offend anyone, but sometimes (Myself included) we get so caught up in little things like this as players, we forget the big picture. Just Play.....
  6. take an DVM and measure the resistance across the lugs of the pot as your moving it. Chances are it's a pot because of the age
  7. Coil Tapping = Tapping into the coil of the winding before the run is finished to effectivly underwind the pickup. Coil Splitting = Making your humbucker, "Split" into making a single coil effectivly. Sorry, just always need to throw that in, It's a huge pet peeve of mine. You can coil tap a single coil if you "Tap" into the wind. Can't split it though. Silly stupid and dumb I know. Termonolgy is so screwed it's like a guitar Tremelo. Which is actually a vibrato.
  8. You just explained it to your self kinda... Coil "tapping" is seperate for coil splitting. Tapping shortens the length of the run of winding giving you a thinner sound, but it is not "single coil". That requires a 4 conductor bucker where you can seperate the poles. But to answer your question... White... To your hot, Black to your ground, Heatshrink red, and leave it alone. Thus resulting in a humbucker. Assuming your colors are right.
  9. Make sure that the pickguard has all it's sheilding, and it's not a bad idea to add some to the body cavity. It is possible that your actually hearing 60 cycle hum out of your amp, that really isn't your guitar.
  10. Replace the switch. Ibanez, Jackson, most any over seas guitars keep prices low by cutting cost on "subpar" components. One of them usally being the switches they use. The heat of a 700-1000 degree soldiering Iron can warp the plastic into not working. You can pick up, from dimarzio a good switch that wont do that stuff.
  11. Check the pot itself. Tone pots dont "Turn Up" parts of signals as people think, they are either High or Low Pass filters depending on the cap used, that bleed signal to ground itself. If you hear the same instrument for 10 years, and then go with no tone pots, you would notice a gain increase. Thus certain players, EVH for example, exluding a tone pot from their guitars. A Tone pot is a tone sucker, no matter how you cut it. So yes the cap or pot could be blown. If the cap was shorted it would give the described problem to you. Get a Multimeter and OHM it out. If it reads .000 it's shorted. Does it adjust tone at all when you adjust, or just volume/gain? But no, you dont need meds, this is an issue that can and does happen.
  12. Sorry man, but you can't coil Tap off of a 3 wire without ripping apart the PUP and doing it yourself.
  13. well, you are talking about trying to learn about amps. I'd really sit down and work a breadborad of the mini gem. Change out the voltage divider and tone caps to see how different things effect the tone. It'll be a huge thing that will help you later down the road. The reverb would work fine. being a single stage solid state amp you'd just run the amps output straight into it's output. Almost like a pedal. In a single stage solid state amp, there is no effects loop to worry about. As to where to hook it up, I would just run it off a DPDT switch for True bypassing. But yeah... The more you mess around with the basics, the better off you'll be later. I think you'd be suprised how much little 10 cent changes effect tone. Then you'll start ripping apart nice amps trying to make them sound "better". good luck!
  14. Well it should be grounded either way.. But a click that is a consistiant spot like that, just sounds like a crappy pot. Might need a new one.
  15. If you get a chance to open it up again, I would make sure you didn't fry the switch. I've seen a lot of switches just go bad by the heat of the solder gun. Take a short jumper and just Jump together the to poles 1 and 6. If she comes through hot... the switch went to crap. Contact switches, on newer guitars, the blade types, are just plain crap and are always the first among all of my personal upgrades
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