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  1. Thanks Bob! I might give it a try. I wet sanded with Tru Oil last night and spent about two hours using steel wool tonight. It looks better but it's still not 100%. After 22 coats of this stuff, my arms are about to fall off. lol
  2. Thanks Scott! I tried this last night before even reading this, looked at it today, and it seems to be working! Thanks so much!
  3. I just found this ... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MQNJ40/ref=nosim/?tag=telecasterdis-20&link_code=as2&creativeASIN=B001MQNJ40&creative=374929&camp=211189 It's made by the same folks who make the Tru Oil and the bottle says it's a clear filler. Filling the grain half way through this whole process wouldn't have been my first choice but it might just work.
  4. I think the problem I'm having is that it appears the wax that I applied (and stripped) is preventing the Tru Oil to fill the pours. There's probably some wax residue in the pours that I just can't get to. And there's really not much to "level" as I've done a pretty thorough job with the steel wool process between coats. Can I maybe wet sand with a mixture of Tru Oil and mineral spirits to try to fill it? I'm just throwing stuff out there cause I really have no clue.
  5. I've been finishing a black walnut body in Tru Oil and have run into some problems. Let me start by saying that my first mistake was not sealing the grain BEFORE applying the Tru Oil. After applying 20 coats of Tru Oil and using 0000 steel wool between each coat, I thought it looked good enough to try applying a wax. Specifically Birchwood Casey wax. The same company that makes the Tru Oil. Once I applied the wax, it brought out a lot of open grain the size of tiny pin holes that I didn't notice before. (see pic). I read some Q&A's from the Birchwood Casey website, which said the the wax could be removed with rubbing alcohol, so I did this and went over it again with 0000 steel wool, in hopes that I could maybe apply more Tru Oil to seal the grain, but it's just not working. Does anyone know what I can use to seal this grain completely? It looks pretty good but it could look so much better, and I'm SO close! Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!
  6. huh??!! I know, you cant make a statement like that without being able to back it up, so here's a picture of some red lacquer i just sprayed (which i intentionally sprayed badly to show this effect): hairy lacquer If it starts to dry out in the air it likes to stick together in long hair-like strands as opposed to blobs, so = hairy It looks like you've sprayed paint onto dust that was already there, but really it's the paint itself. Me thinks what you're seeing is just the fibers from the cardboard you sprayed it on.
  7. So true .... that's why I paint naked.
  8. Take a spray bottle and lightly spray down the floor and walls of your booth with water before painting. The water will help control the dust and debre and keep it away from your paintjob. It also helps prevent static charge.
  9. +1 for 2k urethanes. If you don't have a compressor/spraygun, you can maybe try this ... http://www.levineautoparts.com/aeromax.html I've personally never used it but it looks like a good alternative.
  10. It's a cheapy OLP guitar. I replaced the neck, installed new pickups, installed an Original Floyd and refinished it for someone. I also did a couple little things like replacing the 4-screw neckplate with 5-screw neck ferruls. The top had a cheesy photofilm "quilt" that I sanded off. Here's the mock up. And here's the finished guitar ... The original pickups used foam to support them. It worked, but IMO it was just cheesy. The new pickups were taken from a Peavey Wolfgang and the shims worked perfect. Even if there are no tonal benifits, it still makes for a cleaner build IMO.
  11. Sounds like the locking nut may be loose ... If it's rear mounted, maybe try tightening the (2) allen screws on the backside of the neck.
  12. ...ahem....yeah, I kinda wondered that too...... DJ If you look at the neck pocket of that guitar it looks like he's refinishing it. There seems to be leftover paint in it. If you're refering to the pictures I posted, yeah ... it's a refin.
  13. You can use foam, springs, tubing, washers, etc ... if you just want the "look". But if you're one that believes that hard mounting a pickup effects tone, than I would think all of these methods would be pretty pointless. I fabricate wooden pickup shims that help raise the cavity to the proper height so the pickups can be mounted directly to the wood. Just place masking tape over the cavity, trace the outline, and use this as your template. Thickness may vary from one guitar to the next, so a mock-up is always a good idea. BEFORE: AFTER:
  14. WoW ... That's a beautiful piece of paduak! I finished this padauk body with Tru Oil ... NO filler. I just applied several light coats and used 0000 super fine steel wool before applying each coat. After several coats, the Tru Oil will begin to fill the grain. When I achieved the results I wanted, I just wiped it down with bees wax. Worked out real nice for me.
  15. +1 on what Jim said. I'll only add that if you're clearing over any sort of marker, you should first shoot "dust coats" to help lock-in the ink. If you shoot wet coats from the start, the ink may have a tendency to run. ps: wazzup Kammo1!
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