Lou Thier

Since this post I been looking into other ways to use a router which would not require a special bit, and I am kin to using my overarm table pin router since I have one. I did not get any replies thru email about the router bit but thanks for the reply here. I think that I might end up making a jig that will rock the board at the desired 12" radius like the one in a video on youtube, that way I can use just about any router bit (cool). The first 3 or 4 fretboards I radiused were done using radius sanding blocks, which I soon realized was not working but I had no idea it could be done (or a great part of it) with a router. The radius bit I had did lob off allot of the work but also left much to do with radius sanding blocks, so the bit was not really that great after all, I think the jig for using a pin router will be worth whatever it takes. Yes, custom made router bits can be ordered but wow, the price will really be high from some ads I saw on websites. You got to factor in that the bit will eventually wear out, and as fretboard wood is allways hard, that wouldn't be the choice of anybody with price concerns. Now I'm starting to understand why there was not more enthusiasm for these bits and why there is not any on the market.

I sure do have Paypal. P&P to the UK I estimate will be about the $5 mark - when I've sent small things to the UK before this is what it's cost - once I have it and know the packed weight I'll also go down to the Post Office and get accurate quotes for shipping. I will also get DHL quotes as some people might want them quick and also DHL here isn't rediculously expensive as in Europe. Watch this space for reviews. I've got erikbojeriks shipping address so once I've had a good play with it got plenty of pictures I'll ship it over and let erikbojerik give his experienced opinion on it! Once all is okay'd then I'll be taking orders and Laz no worry you'll be at the top of the list! Cheers! Hi, SJE Guitars, or anybody that can help me contact SJE. I have bought 2 of your radius router bits a while back and I'd like to purchase a few more. I noticed SJE has not posted here in years and all I can not find "classifieds" or any way to cantact SJE. If they are not going to see this message, somebody please let me know what SJE's email address is. My email is Buzzy1959@comcast.net TIA

I for a long time was buying Stew-mac maple radius blocks, than thought I'd try the LMI's. I ended up sending back the LMI blocks for a refund. They are not one piece Maple, don't evan think they are maple at all, but what's worse is that they are multi-piece. The Stewmac's are expensive but worth it, one piece maple. I've heard that evan they are not perfectly accurate, but I also have the Stew-Mac 12" radius aluminum for final touches. I think it's a good idea to have the other side in use, on mine I used other blocks to sand a reverse radius so I could use it for stuff in need of a reverse radius. Maple is expensive wood, and it wears down machining tools, all that results in a higher price. LMI's description at the time didn't mention that they were multi-piece and the pics didn't reveal that. I supose my feelings are not the all and all authority, but I didn't want to take a chance on them. Unlike a flat surface such as a straight edge or fret leveler, it would be more difficult to know if they are warped, and if so, how could you re-calibrate them? If they made them out of machined granite blocks, that would be alot more accurate, and they'd stay that way. Stew-mac had offered a much more expensive radius sanding block set, I can't remember what they were made from but a well known luthier had endorsed them, maybe sales were not keeping them in demand.

I'd probabbly buy a new in box off Ebay if I were to buy a sliding miter saw, but I went to Lowe's to get an idea of what they felt like. I pulled and moved them thru some paces, checked for stability. Yes, the two 12 DeWalts moved with ease and precision, but they cost alot too, they had a Kobalt which was only $199 that slides, it of course didn't have the same ease a precision but maybe would be accurate enough. So the only problem now is that I found out thru a review in Tool Guide that my DeWalt 745 can not take stacked Dado blades, and the table is kinda small. When you compare others in that price range, the tables are much bigger, they come with stands or have cast iron precision grinded tables. The DeWalt has a teflon or something coating the table, and no doubt has table extensions and stands available, but are aftermarket purchases. The advantage of not having a large one is that I can put it away and with ease, not taking up floor space. The reason for the grip about the DeWalt not using stacked Dado blades is that can be used to cut truss rod channels. Thanks, this forum really helped with a hand up, I owe you.

I read thru the link on how to make the jig, I can't thank you enough. I have printed out 10 pages of that tutorial for future reference. But my brand new quality DeWalt tablesaw still is inside the box. I'm still wondering if a sliding miter saw would be better, I think I'd only need to make a fence to install the pin for the template that way. I've been shoping around a bit and those can be had for as much or less than my table saw. I think I could take it to Lowe's and get in store credit without the reciept, I've done that with other merchandise I lost the receipt for. Please post if you are using a sliding miter saw or have done them both ways and tell why you favor the table or sliding miter saw. Not that I'm overwhelmed by lack of skill to make the jig, but if it's easier to use the s.m.s and it's just as accurate, thats what I'd do.

Hi, this is my first post here I've just bought a brand new De Walt 10" 745 table saw on ebay. It costed $100 less than at the store (Lowe's), shipping was low due to distance. I had drooled over this one at Lowe's many times becase of the rack and pinion fence system's razor sharp accuracy. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=330211825607 I have read this topic to see any pics of anything, maybe they can be reposted. I am wondering if I should have got a radial miter saw instead. Perhaps it would depend on which type of saw I'd have more uses for, right now I don't have a need for a table saw except for the fret slotting. I had the Stewmac miter box and saw but returned them after reading the posts about the poor results with the saw and the efficiency of using the table saw blade. So I bought the table saw blade and kept the templates. I am allways dissapointed with the instructions that come with the tools the sell but this time there were zero instructions included. I would greatly appreciate a pic of what a jig looks like I'd have to bulid in order to use the template with the table saw. While I had the Stewmac miter box, saw and templates it was all self teaching to set it up, I am fairly certain I had figured out a correct method but I can't evan imagine how the template works with the table saw. If anybody has tried both the tablesaw and the radial miter saw, which do you prefer and why? My new saw is still in the un-opened box so it is not too late to return or exchange, if that's the case than please recommend a good radial miter saw.