sarradan

ah ya good point thanks for your reply. I will have to do more research on how to distribute the glue and flatten the blister uniformly

Hello everyone, I have a guitar body that was shot with 2 part poly at an autobody shop. A blister has developed about the diameter of a quarter on the back near the input jack cavity. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a fix other than stripping it down and starting over. Can glue be injected in? Thanks

Thanks for your comments guys. I think i will go the decal route. The swirl paint is not flat, it has ridges. so would you put a coat of clear,sandsmooth then apply the decal then add another coat of clear?. Sarradan

Hi I just thought i'd post some pics of a couple projects i have going. The first (bottom routed) was a unfinished jem body clone i bought off the net. I swirled it and had it cleared at an automotive shop. It still needs a wet sand buff and polish but it really close to done. I just bought a maple /maple neck with pearl pyramid inlay neck made. I will swirl the headstock to match. the second (top routed) was originally off my old jem 555. I just finished the paintjob last night. I swirled the headstock to match but haven't got pics up yet. http://cid-e7964c38443c1009.photos.live.co...wse.aspx/Jem555 Also i was wondering What was the best way to put the logo onto the headstock?. Do the decals work? If so do you put them directly onto the paint? Could a stencil be made and spray paint it on? has anyone tried this menthod? Any other ideas? Any feedback would be appreciated. thanks Sarradan

Very nice! Hmm how big is your tub?. Dimensions and volume? On the PG tutorial he used 50 gallon rubbermaid drum, with 1 cup of borax. I am using a 48 gallon container with 1 cup of borax. I tried some more test dips tonight to mixed results. The temperature of the water and garage was stable. The first couple were exactly the same result, skinned over no good.Then we got 3 in a row to work , then 2 that didn't. This leads me to believe that the temp humidity and borax content must all be in perfect order for the viscosity of the paint you are using.Testors is the only paint i have used, but i think you can account for the drying time by adjusting the other factors ie thinning the paint,borax etc).I also believe that the water surface is critical.The first color down has to be the perfect viscosity and weight to create the exact surface for the other paint to move on.Too little and it dries and strands the other colors, too thick and it overloads and the colors clot. here is one i did that worked http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s153/shrly2/swirls023.jpg

Hi I emailed testors and they said there should be no difference in drying time between matt and gloss.But temp and humidity definitly will.Enamel is designed to dry extremely fast. every color i use dries almost instantly. I have bought new paint, and used a bunch of old paint from the 1990's.I have had the same expirience with scraping off the dried part to find paint moving perfectly underneath but too weak of color to use. The weird thing is when i put a new deep red in the water it turns pinkish. An art store person told me probably the solution is too strong and is destroying the red pigment.We had it working perfectly one night, then not at all. I just need to know what element causes the paints to dry.Still stumped.

Has anyone come up with a cause of the paint drying?.I am having the same problem. I know on the tuorial on this site says don't use testors, but, my first run (15 dips in all) went well.The nex day i came out to try more and my paint dries almost on contact. I changed the water heated it up cooled it down added borax and took some out. I'm stumped. Can you think of what if anything you did differently? Did you use gloss or matt testors paint?

I was dumb enough to bite on this turd. I sent Mr Calvert exactly what he sent to me and it was all from the project guitar site.As of today his ebay link is still active.If he has found a loophole by adding additional material, or eliminated the PGF tutorial, makes me wonder who else he is stealing from. If he actually knew how to swirl, why bother copying pages? Are you that lazy you can't write out the instructions?. Every school kid knows if you gonna copy homework you at least have the brains to re write it before handing it in....jeez. i'm not letting this one go, and i don't think he should be able to get away with it either.As far as i can tell from ebay he sold 7-10. I figured by posting it on a forum where people would be interested in the subject, would be most effective.

i looked again and there is one is still active http://cgi.ebay.com/INFO-How-to-Paint-Swir...1QQcmdZViewItem

thats what i was thinking, im not sure if the reference section is copywrited, but i let the moderators know just in case.

just to let everyone know that the information offered for 4.99 on ebay on how to swirl guitars, is the exact tutorial on the project guitar site, they actually copied the actual page, and text word for word.Don't waste you money.