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madawgony

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madawgony last won the day on July 18 2012

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About madawgony

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    Frisco, TX

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  1. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best. Nice, concise, does exactly what it is supposed to do. Good work
  2. Here is a link to the Shop notes plan: http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/thickness-sander/ We just moved to a new house and I am still looking for stuff. If/when I find my modifications I will post them. One huge gotcha I didn't take into account was the motor requirements. I ended up burning up the motor in that table saw (very old, bottom-tier Craftsman). So if you are planning on making a sander that relies on an external motor choose wisely.
  3. Thanks. I wish that I could take credit for the concept but this was my interpretation of a plan published in Shop Notes. I made a couple of tweaks, widened the platten and drum.
  4. Nice documentation on your build. And your work looks great, the attention to detail is awesome.
  5. I made the drum out of 3/4" MDF. Very consistent density which helps with balance. It runs pretty smooth. The test will be to see how it runs under load.
  6. I started this about 3 years ago and spent about two weeks working on and off. It got shelved until a couple of months ago when I dusted it off and finished it up. I have some tiger maple that is crying out to be made into a 335 type 6 string. I have the dust hood finished but not pictured. I really need to get a cover over that pulley and belt, thats an accident waiting to happen.
  7. Back from shoulder surgery...sort of. I probably shouldn't be out in the shop but I am going stir crazy! Routed out the pup cavities. Rough cut the bevel. Even though I have never held a Kelly I can tell by the pics that I was way too aggressive. I did say "Kelly-ish" lol. Well, it will be even more pointy so that will be good with my son. Getting good clean lines on this type of bevel is going to be tough. I have a couple of areas that need some refinement. The jack I have planned for this wont have a plate so it will fit in-between the bevels on the backside.
  8. How precise do you need? If I need to route a straight cut I cut 3/4" MDF to the length I need on the table saw. Straight edge* ready to use. *Depending on how well your table saw is set up, you can use the cut edge as is. If it needs a little touch up. hit it with a hand plan. Why MDF? Easy to mill, fairly inexpensive and very static (doesnt measurably shrink or expand). Cons - the dust is absolutely evil. Use a mask or dust collection when working with it. I make a majority of my templates and fixtures out of MDF.
  9. Well executed. Great pics in the album also, I love to look at the details on builds to see the attention paid. You got some nice clean lines there. Good work.
  10. I dont particularly like working with it, but it is a beautiful wood. It absolutely destroys my allergies. I was fortunate and picked a few board feet up at this place in Dallas that is now gone (Bluelinx which used to be Austin hardwoods). As I have started working with more types of wood I have discovered just about everything bothers me, which is unfortunate as I really enjoy woodworking. Speaking of which woods we like to work with I am partial to mahogany. Mills great and looks great finished. The drawback is the grain filling required. Although hitting it with a dark grain filler and then a lightly tinted amber clear can make it absolutely glow.
  11. This is a jig I built a few years ago. Makes short work of the job. The router travels the length of the board on the rail using a temple bushing guide and the fboard is underneath. I only have two radius sanding blocks so I built the jig to cut 9.5" and 12" radii(?). Creates a really clean board with some minor sanding afterword.
  12. Since I didnt angle the head stock I am going to use a string tree to get the neccessary break across the bridge. Looking around I didnt really want to order a $5 item and pay $10 in shipping. I found this drain plug actuator and ground a flat side. I am going to drill two holes; off to Home depot to see if I can find some really thin screws to mount it. I will have lots of sanding to get it shiny but it should work.
  13. Finished planing the heel on the neck to the right thickness. The tenon extends into the bottom side of where the pup route will be. Also I radiused and slotted the rosewood fretboard this morning. The darker areae in the middle is where I hit it with some sandpaper so I got more to do on that after I do the inlays and binding. I am going with maple binding, not sure on theinlay material yet.
  14. The chatoyance on that top is outstanding, can't wait to see it finished.
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