Traveler

this is coming along very nicely.....will follow this build with much interest.

I've had one since about 1997 and it's proven to be a solid, stable, neck. If I remember right it had a small sticker or stamp on the heel that said "product of Canada" and "lacquer finish". It's been a mule neck for many projects and been refinned a few times so those markings are long gone otherwise I'd check to verify. anyway, not a bad neck for $89 or so back then.

impressive material selection, and execution. Jack Butler is green with envy.

consider using dyed baking soda set in CYA, check Stew Macs website for this tip on filling chips/dents, you don't want to pull frets and grind your fb down to fix that. what is happening in your fretting process that is causing the chipping???

just finished my second scratch built neck and I prepped the slots as Mikro said above, and the frets seated much better than my first neck which I didn't bevel the slots. I noticed frets 1-12 seemed to be pooched up a bit right in the center so I clamped a strip of maple over the board and added a drop of CYA down both sides of the fret and it's turned out great with 100% of fret wire fully seated. I cut my FB using Stew table saw blade, Stew fret wire. I did have to deepen my slots a bit after radiusing and I used my LMI hand fret saw to touch this up, supposed to be .023 kerf and measures out a bit over this so I found it slightly larger than the StewMac .023 kerf saw blade.

I'm only exp. using nitro, and find the benefits for my climate quite good so.....I have a friend who is an exceptional airbrush artist and would like him to do a graphic on a body for me, what kind of paint is ok for him to use over a nitro color coated body then I'll finish with clear coats of nitro??? obvious answer would be nitro but I'm hoping more readily avail paints commonly used by airbrush guys will be compatable with nitro. thanks.

simply beautiful work you 've done there.....

which blue powder are you using?? I'm looking for something that will be pretty bright.

what a pair of beauties!!!! I'm in the middle of my first LP build and while not for this project, I would love to know about your dye recipe.

great post here....I agree 100% with John's findings and if I can add that I use min spirits to wet sand vs. water to avoid ruining a finish with water creeping underneath, ask me how I know! I made up a crude rotating fixture that allows me to spray one side and the sides then turn it over so it can flash with minimal crap landing when it's wet. flip, and do the reverse. my first 'real' quality finish was a shoreline gold strat body that recieved 10 thin to medium coats of clear then blocked with 1000G and polished using 3M product with my PorterCable orbital set at 1500 rpm.

I couldn't find it on their site....do you have a part # maybe I could reference? thanks.

that is wicked cool, I sound like a 20 year old from Boston when I say it but ***. Is the body shape an original Gretch design? please add it to the downloads so I can make a 12 string version with some TV's!

what a beauty.....love the tobacco burst you went with. is that tremelo scavanged from something or did you source it some place and where if I may ask. I'm looking for a Maestro to do an SG at some point and haven't found an aftermarket version yet.

constructing my first neck....at what point does one usually radius the fb, before or after tapering or does it matter? will their be a diff in thickness or height when looking at the tapered product after radiusing from the nut vs. the heel end considering the width diff?

just went thru this recently, switched out my 1/4 to a 3tpi 1/2" blade which is the max my 15 year old low buck Delta can run. tune up to proper tension, and set the guides and bearings as described above and it cut my first ever birdseye fretboards straight as an arrow.