Jump to content


Established Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by syxxstring

  1. One Shots instructions are to add catalyst if your clearing, you may get away with not but your risking it all blowing up.
  2. Any switch that you can use to short the connection will work. I've tried push buttons and toggles with success.
  3. If you use oneshot and plan on clearing it you need to add a catalyst to it. HOK's stripping paints need a catalyst if you don't plan on clearing it. Not sure who else is in the stripping game anymore, Alsa's on the verge of shutting down the paint line if they haven't already.
  4. I've had a lot of luck stripping stuff recently with Ace hardwares Refinishing Liquid
  5. Its all about picking a paint system and sticking with in the system. If by poly you mean minwax in a can, I believe they sell it tinted or Homie Depot can tint it for you.
  6. I'm with Ihocky, I'd tint clear. First you get a deeper look because the finish is in fact deeper. Yo Also Its a lot easier to do and get a consistent look if you can spray.
  7. A flowing coat is between light and medium. I dont wetsand, I dont like the risk of water getting in a screw hole or something and causing me issues. But I still 1000 grit, then 2000 gritt, buff and polish.
  8. 1. Between 2 and 3 ounces for me. I use any leftovers on other stuff, but I hate to run out. 2. Depends on your base,etc... More for flakes or to cover tape lines from artwork, only a couple for regular basecoat. My goal is usually to have enough in the first session to make sure I can get rid of any runs/sags/dust nibs etc... without harming the base coat. I don't always have these things but when I skip a little they always pop up where I didn't see them. -I usually work in at least 2 sessions. The first I lay down clear and sand it back with about 600. The second I aim for one flowin
  9. Coast Airbrush may still have some they have crazy amounts of stock on stuff. They also can recomend other products to get similar results.
  10. Eerie Dess is not a swirl. Exactly. Or you can go to www.alsacorp.com and check their crazer Alsa's crazer is a similar but very different effect. Also they have discontinued some of their paints like the Cystal Fx.
  11. Erie Dess swirl is a product called marbelizer. You spray it on, place plastic wrap over it and twist it off. You can do a lot of other stuff with it too,its a slow drying pearl paint. It is a silver white pearl color. The colors come from using transparent paints over it before clearing.(kandying) Funny enough in some old House Of Kolor catalouges the cans of marbelizer are labeled Erie Dess.
  12. You can get copper foil at a lot of craft and hobby shops, maybe cheaper than Stew Mac. The "paint" you have left is vinyl sealer most likely. If you can leave it and use it as your primer. What are your final finish plans? That will help determine where you should go. I would always start at the final goal and build a plan from there for paint. Also posting pictures makes diagnoses a lot easier.
  13. On an epiphone, it is most likely not going to be nitro. I don't know of any recent models done in nitro from them, but there could be an oddball out there.
  14. You can use india ink to die rosewood black. As far as using it to burst with an airbrush or spray gun. The answer is if you can get it to spray well, Yes. The question is should you? Will it be UV proof, will it take a clear coat well and not react with the finish. You can spray a test panel and know if it won't blow up right away, you wont know what will happen a year or 5 years or a month later. Or be able to UV bath it to know how the combo will fade.
  15. Right now Im trying to hunt a pickguard that works. Brushed aluminum is winning right now.
  16. Right now the biggest thing my airbrushing needs is me to put down the gun and the flake. And pick up a pencil, if you cant draw it you cant airbrush it. Oh and not loosing tons of time this month to crazy tax laws would be nice too. My fav site for airbrush info is the Kustom Kulture Lounge. Here's my next personal build. A warmoth body I picked up of Craigslist for $40. Stripped to the sealer and readyish to go. Before someone asks. Black autoair, block sanded, black autoair.(sealer dark) Transparent base with flake for boats. 3oz of clear, level sand (block again), 1oz(1 flowing co
  17. Not sure where I got beligeriant. If I came off that way it wasn't meant too. But it wasn't my point. Different people learn different ways. I'm totally a hands on person. Fraser's intro DVD is all about practice techniques and the basics of dagger strokes, dot's/dot boxes, fades etc... I know personally I wasted a ton of time and effort and what seemed like a lot of paint trying to figure stuff out. Then I took the classes and watched the disc as a reminder and it worked for me. I started trying to do RC car bodies and that stuff adds up quickly, luckily ugly or pretty rc car bodies don
  18. If you can't afford to take the classes Craig's intro to airbrushing DVD is very good. And covers pretty much what the first day of intro does. Its like $25, you'll waste more than that on paint trying on your own. But I'll admit it I'm a fan of his work and teaching. I'll post up pics of the panels we did in his class. Im no Fraser, LeValle, VanDemon or Rino at the moment. But my art doesn't suck either. My sites down until I get some time... So after I repaint my car bumper, finish a guitar or two, some repair work, and my bands demo.
  19. Best way I found to learn to airbrush is take a class like the Airbrush Action Getaways. Why not have people like Craig Fraser and Ryno tell you how to do it right from the start... I went from wanting to kill my airbrush to being able to paint.
  20. Remember the color of your primer will only matter if you use a system that doesn't require a sealer coat. HOK's system for instance you can not paint on the primer, you must use Ko-Seal. It is white, black, or metallic silver. All tintable.
  21. It just a generic Telecaster body. The big thing with automotive paint is to stick within a system.
  22. I've done it a bunch of ways. Direct to the wood, over sanding sealer, over primer or over clear.
  23. I've used Kustom Shops clear with no problems, just doesn't flow as well as some others. Dyntatone from Alsa, it sucks. House of Kolor Uc35, flows well polishes well, great clear. No surprise. As far as pinhole issues. That is solvent pop easily prevented with single light flowing coats, usually its cause by too heavy a coat.
  24. I've heard about it several years at SEMA, so far no one I know in the kustom paint industry is running to it.
  • Create New...