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About cherokee6

  • Birthday 11/10/1956

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  • Location
    Fishkill, New York, USA
  • Interests
    aircraft (see the post name), guitars, wood and glass working

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  1. How about bringing up the topic here? http://www.sawmillcreek.org/ The guys at this forum are pretty knowledgeable. I do all my woodworking questions here.
  2. I did the same as Bluesman62 in my Epi Sheraton ii. Replaced all the guts and hardware and it plays like an es-335.
  3. Yep, but that project may be on the very far back burner!
  4. Yes, what you say is true as to the earlier PAF's in quality and consistency. I guess I equate the sound I now have like an earlier es-335. It seems to have the more "classic" sound that would probably be close to the Gibson '57 classics (which I was originally planning to use). By the way, I readjusted the A 2 as I figured they had a little less output and the result is that the output improved. I'm very happy the way it sounds now. The highs on the a2 still need to be turned down for my taste even though the harness was modded to keep the them rolled off. Otherwise it gets a bit nasally for me. The A5 is very smooth and sounds great for jazz and rockabilly along with rock. By the way, I'm only playing through a Marshall 30 watt amp., so that probably effects the sound, too.
  5. I just finished installing the Stew Mac Parsons street PAF's in my old Epiphone Sheraton ii. I also put in a harness from BCS guitar with the Bournes mini pots. (I was too lazy to make my own.) The quality of the harness is top notch: great soldering and I like the schematic and mods they used rather than many I've seen on the internet. The pickups are AMAZING! Turned the guitar into an ES-335. They sound like PAF's and fully bring out the semi-hollow sound. They are very clear - almost too clear and deliver a lot of "punch". I found I needed to tone done the brightness on both pickups to get the sound I wanted. I found in playing with distortion the pickups do not require very much to give them the "growl". I used the Alnico 5 in the neck and the Al 2 in the bridge. The only downside is that the al 2 doesn't have quite as much output. Possibly a soldering issue? I'm not willing to disassemble the setup at this time to figure that out ( you know what its like to install an ES-335 harness!) Based on this experience I may try their Tele pickups for my build. I bought the PAF's with the gold covers. Excellent deal for $118! One other issue: Go to the Stew Mac home page first before going to the Parsons Street page. For some reason if you go directly to the pickups page from your search engine, the pups are $148 for the set!
  6. I know its a bit off topic but the Ridgid belt/ spindle sander has gotten rave reviews. It's $200 at Home Depot. I think you can buy it through Amazon also. It's a bit too much plastic for me, but I'll probably get it as its dual purpose and I don't have a lot of room. Plus it's a benchtop tool.
  7. I just wired a new harness from BCS into my Epi Sheraton ii. I also installed a set of stew mac Parsons Street humbuckers. All looked great, so I plugged the harness into a Pignose Hog, to test it. Well, got some hum, distortion, etc. I noticed that when I touch the strings, the noise and distortion stop. There are some distorted sounds, too. Grounding problems? and how do I found the problem grounds. I do have a multi-meter available. I couldn't locate anything addressing this in the tutorials and had problems searching the forum. Any suggestions? Thanks for your help! peace
  8. I'm pic challenged. Can I post them on here now or do I need to use Photo Bucket? I can get the pics up tomorrow eve as it's a bit late here.
  9. Recently a friend of mine asked me to repair his Strat (with Lace pickups) as it was dropped. The head of the neck was badly cracked. Cracks run from the head's edge through a couple of the tuners. It looks like a removal of hardware and clamping job and maybe some reinforcement of the tuner holes. The question is: do I use Titebond or epoxy? Any suggestions/ recommendations?
  10. OK, I haven't posted for quite awhile. Sorry, life's been too busy. Anyway, I was adjusting the neck on my Strat and was having trouble getting out some buzzing. In measuring the string height, The strings seemed to be set very low. I noticed that the factory nut had grooves that were pretty deep. They seem to be filed incorrectly in that the e and b strings were sitting in particularly deep slots. Another Strat has the same issue. I'm thinking about replacing them and filing the grooves myself. Is this typical of a lot of guitars from the factory or was it just bad nanufacturing?
  11. I have to invest in a hygrometer; but its been pretty dry. We've had tons of snow in the NE USA, but for the most part it makes a great ski season. If I use another part of the house, its too cold. The living room has a pellet stove in it which dries out that room, so there aren't many choices.
  12. As stated, the 1/4" is a good all-around blade. You could easily go for a 3/16" or even 1/8", as you have small wheels and the smaller blades will run more smoothly. Play with the 9" for now, but save up the bucks for a 14" or better with 1.5hp minimum (if you plan to resaw) and have the space for it.
  13. Yeah, I meant from the sides of the neck. I did read somewhere to re-dress them. I gues the minimal amount won't make a difference if the wood swells up again.
  14. I've been having some string buzzing on a Strat and an Epiphone LP. I've adjusted the necks and set the bridges, but there are still some issues. I may have determined that maybe the string grooves on the production nuts were cut too deeply. In reading some of the guitar building books, it's recommended to cut the grooves 1/2 the thickness of the string. I've noticed that the factory production nuts all seem to have the bass strings fully bedded in the nut as opposed to resting on it about 1/2 way down the string's thickness in the groove. Is this a production mistake? Also in reading the Stew Mac material, Erlwin suggests cutting the groove a bit at a time and and measuring against string height against the fret board. He says nothing about the depth of the cut other than implying via the string height. Any thoughts?
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