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camsna

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  1. I'm building my first guitar with a compound radius FB (9" - 12"). Should the nut-slot radius be 9"? 12"? Something in-between? Thanks! --- Cam
  2. It helps greatly, however, my setup uses a 'megaswitch.' I just need that part of the diagram too...thanks!
  3. i've looked EVERYWHERE! Please help me. i need to wire up an old guitar, thus, need a wiring diagram. The configuration is as follows: Single Single Hum Volume Tone 5-Way Allparts Megaswitch Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  4. thanks for the info. i went to that site before and they don't really have anything that applies. What he's got as an RJP (read...crappy local music store 1st timer) bass. It has what seems to be a humbucker with one volume pot and 2 tones. Or as far as he can remember that's how his controls worked out.
  5. My cousin has a little POS bass guitar and his dad has wrecked the wiring. I know, esentioally, nothing about electronics. Can anybody provide me with a diagram for the following: 1 dual-coil pcikup Volume Volume Tone Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
  6. Hey. I'm planning a neckthrough SG right now. Any pointers or plans or help you can offer? How'd it turn out? Feel free to e-mail me. camsna@gmail.com
  7. So pretty...i ordered one just like it: http://wildwestguitars.com/suhr/large/suhr_stand_3765.jpg
  8. Oh yeah....what should the dimensions of my neck blank be? I have to order the lumber...
  9. Galleryhardwoods.com They're AWESOME. Very easy to deal with and they'll mill stuff to your specs.
  10. I had considered a solid top but I think I'll just do wings. I plan on painting it all black anyhow. A maple cap might make it a bit more 'snappy' but Korina's a pretty spanky sounding material anyhow. I just have to make up my mind about a few things. Suggestions are welcome, BTW. Here's exactly what I'm thinking: Black Limba/satin finished neck White Limba body (painted black) Pau Ferro fingerboard string-thru/tune-o-matic bridge Suhr SSV chrome-covered pups I think the black limba neck would loock cool and sound bitchin' with it's white counterpart. Let me know what you think!
  11. Thanks, man. This won't be my first project...but will be my first neck-thru. I always wanted an SG, so I'll make one for myself! Anyhow. I have the basic skill and understanding to do it. I just want to do it well. I'm thinking neck-thru for tonal reasons. I've only played a few with mixed results. But when done well, I think the neck-thru could be really tonally advantageous. Any pointers about unforseen, perhaps avoidable, stuations would be greatly appreciated. I already have a few unique ideas
  12. So here's the deal, I'm going to build a guitar..here's what I'm thinking: Neck-thru SG Korina neck and body I just need a good tutorial on building a neck-thru because I've never done one. Can you help me?
  13. Frets are often glued in with CA (super) glue. Heat will release its bond. So try this. Use the nippers that Southpa mentioned. They're important. Heat one end of the fret with a soldering iron -- then push a dab of solder into the iron, thus melting said solder. Then drag the solder bead accross the fret. It's easiest to apply solder on the far end of the fret and pull it toward yourself (safety glasses...it can splash). Give it a second to heat the glue. Then immediately pry the fret off starting at the far end and working toward yourself again. It only takes a few seconds to lift the fret. If done right this should result in no chipping...but should it occur, do what Southpa said. Keep the chips and glue them back in carefully. Let us know how it goes!
  14. The audible difference is less noise. Connecting all of the cavities to the control cavities leads to an overall reduction in noise. That's it. About the paint vs. tape -- paint is more reliable as many copper tapes have a not-so-conductive adhesive, and paint won't peel up in the heat (if done right). So truth be told, shielding is shielding is shielding. I prefer to be overshielded than risk it. Also, I'm a stickler for how the shielding operation looks. As I said, this particular method lends itself well to rear route situations where haivng copper behind the pup is less than pleasing to the eye. .01% is .01ohms...just couldn't find the omega key on the kybd . Anyhow. I didn't mean to be contrary. Any method of shielding is WAY better than no shielding. Lovecraft, sorry for any offense. I didn't mean to get carried away. Please forgive me. JCH...just shield the thing. your pickups are quiet. You should be more worried about ground-shorts! Oh and which wire to use. Go vintage. There's no tonal difference, vintage is just easier to work with! Peace. Love. And bobby Sherman!
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