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mongrel666

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About mongrel666

  • Birthday 02/11/1973

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  • Location
    Australia
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    Everything Luthiery

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  1. They really popped out? I've never seen that. I used to love the old small-pocket SGs because there was enough flex for "push on the neck" trem, and there was even pitch wobble if you spun around enough, but I never heard of one popping out. Makes me seriously reconsider my plans to build a copy of my old (long gone) SG… Yeah, apparently, though it was considered a design flaw rather than a full on epidemic. I dont mean that you would get one out of the box and every one would do it but there were enough problems for them to initiate a redesign. I guess the thin body would have conributed to the problem, plus the double cut-away. Production methods and the like would also have made each instrument vary considerably, imagine such a small tenon with a sloppy mortice. Uuggghhh! I would hope that any "flex" you got by pushing on a neck was the neck itself bending rather than the tenon moving or flexing. I can flex the neck on my strat and get a bit of a wobble, but the trem could be taking up the slack of the strings as well, dunno.
  2. Yup, dead on. forces in a guitar neck are mostly shear forces, so the long bottom and the long side glueing area are HUGE in comparison with the load. If the forces were otherwise oriented then bolt on necks would rip out. Early SG guitars had small tennons that on went to the neck pickup and because they were a double cut-away the neck tended to pop out - not enough glueing surface area. They then extended the tennon under the neck pickup and rectified the problem (if they can survive Angus Young...) The other thing to look at is the scarf joint at the head stock of accoustics and some electrics, very small area of glue, but a largeish shear area, still the same string tension...
  3. Hey, just a lurker but anyhow... Generally there is a bit of give and take anyway, especially with accoustics. The top and back are fitted to the bent sides so as long as it flows and you are fairly close... I have found that pipe bending allows quite a bit of back and fourth movement in the apex, you are using the pipe to heat the area you wish to bend not necessarily conforming your timber to the pipes shape. Some forms are nothing more than a piece of MDF with strategically placed dowels poking out so that you can keep the shape in the timber as it cools. Some timbers will stay pliable for quite a time before re hardening, sometimes you can just hold the bend on your bench on the pattern for a minute while it cools. Jigs and stuff are great, dont get me wrong, but you can build without them, It is just more tedius. tho you'd be amazed how much time can pass while your happily holding your sides in shape... good luck probably too late but still ... jason
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