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Ronkirn

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Everything posted by Ronkirn

  1. for me.. its just finishing the sweethearts... at 73 and with thousands behind me over almost 60 years... when I finally get it strung up and the preliminary setup.. and strum it the first time... the thought still races through my head, "Jeez.. I made that..." What's not to love... Just think if we played the Oboe.. ever try to make an Oboe? Yeah, me neither... r
  2. to me choosing ash, mahogany, maple, alder.. et al., to define a specific tone is analogous to choosing a specific ethnicity to define a specific logic... Sure as a whole a Native American (I'm part such) may have a basis for logic defined by their culture,, but its not a fact that all Native Americans would come to a uniform conclusion simply because they're Indians,,, the same is true of Asians, Africans, Europeans, Inuit, Latina, etc, etc.. while each culture will have produced a specific "coloration" to their logic,. it not "carved in stone" that they do so. Our World is replete
  3. well, ya see.. that's a subjective call.. if you don't care for Carlos, no harm, no foul, you simply avoid Santana.. as for me, I personally I like him and would give a boatload of whatever is required to play like him with his apparently sucky tone... Point is, I rather doubt that anyone ever walked up to him, short of a producer or sound tech, and told him is tone sucked... with any of all those different guitars he's been seen with over the years... Wood does contribute to the sound.. but it does so in concert with everything else that is also contributing... It contributes in th
  4. the internet is now replete with examples of guitarists playing guitars made of bazaar materials. Stuff like Concrete, Cardboard, sheet metal, plastics, carbon graphite, etc., etc., etc. in every case there is one common denominator... a good guitarist... Not once in my over 50 years of being involved with guitars have I ever seen a demonstration where a sucky guitarist was handed a superb guitar, he stumbled through a few riffs, and every one stood there amazed at the horrible playing BUT stunned by the amazing tone... not once... in every case when someone is demonstrating supe
  5. that's exactly how I do it... however note.. to do so you must have your parts available... despite all the hoopla, parts guaranteed to be to specs.. are usually specced out in Chinenglish .. not SAE standards.. Having your parts at the ready allows you to "dry fit" them as you proceed, that way you know when the lacquer is dried and polished, everything;s gonna work out within the margin of correction allowed for by the adjustments ., r
  6. actually that's misinformation, Poly is very nasty stuff... and I'd take huffin' Nitro over Poly any day if the choice was mandatory. r
  7. I would try Lowes or Home Depot and see if either one offers Deft... in the Spray can it's available as a real solvent based Nitrocellulose .. it is among the easiest to use... the "stuff" you selected uses the humidity in the air to cure... all I could say is try it on a test piece. if it cures hard enough to sand with 240 or so.. then it'll be fine. But some of the rattle can Polys can take an extended time to harden, all the time acting as a "fly paper" for any thing floating around in the air.. r
  8. place the neck plate on the back of the body... get it visually straight etc... mark the center of the holes... drill them... DO NOT worry if they are not exactly evenly spaced on the back of the neck.. that doesn't mean squat.... you cannot see them.. you CAN see that neck plate. get THAt straight.. Drill the holes through the body with a 3.16 inch bit... it's pretty much the "industry standard" After that.. I clamp the neck in the pocket.. take a 3/16 brad point drill. then stick it in the hole.. tap it lightly, the brad point will leave a mark on the heel of the neck... drill your
  9. think of it like golf... lotta amateurs buy a set of clubs, yank the driver outta the bag and hit the driving range pounding balls every which-a-way except straight.... and continue until their hands bleed.... thing is.. the driver is used maybe 10 times a round..(for those that have a basic understanding of the game) . . . however the putter.. something few ever practice seriously, is good for about 30 = 40 strokes a round for the amateur..... a little practice with THAT thing and you can shave some real numbers off the old handicap... Learn the unglamorous stuff first.. its wher
  10. that's close to absolutely correct.... but I'd suggest just finding a beater first... take it apart... do the frets.. and put it back together.... several times... focus on mastering the fret leveling and setup... without that anything you build will be little more than an assemblage of parts... it takes the setup to convert that into a musical instrument... here's some "stuff" I did decade ago.. perhaps it will help;p as you enter our hobby.. Ron Kirn http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Tele_template-illustrated-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.co
  11. If you're building a conventionally available model.. like a Stat or Tele...get your hardware, pick guard and neck, unless you're making it... then use the parts to make sure everything aligns visually on your drawing... little things like the bridge not being situated evenly spaced in a cutout in the pickguard like on the Strat or Tele can scream amateur... as can having the margins around the edge of the pickguard uneven relative to the edge of the body.. just little things... here's some "stuff" I did a number of years back that might help.... http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uplo
  12. just for the record..that "Strat" is as phony as a room full of politicians... probably nothing on it that OEM Fender.. rk
  13. I have to agree... I've seen some of his other posts over the years... Generally the "science" is based more on internet hooplah than actual reality.. the simple truth is the tremolo has inherent flaws... to advert them you have to have a deep understanding of the mechanical fiuunctionality AND the metallurgical properties of the alloys used to make the strings... fortunately... superb guitarists have managed to navigate the foibles of tremolo annoyance and still produce superb music, through the years, you can too.. there is no magic spring placement, etc that will solve the p
  14. I'm sorry but a mechanism that has moving strings trying to glide over fixed brass is gonna be problematical at best.... every time you hit the Bigsby, the guitar will return to an out of tune condition... Its bad enough with a tremolo and a bridge designed for them, but over a fixed bridge... I hope no one in the group can hear tuning anomalies acutely... r
  15. the problem is the strings "dragging" back and forth across the fixed saddles... talk about tuning issues.... you're far better with a bridge designed to move in sync with the strings.. here's a few to give ya some ideas.. rk
  16. well. . next time.... file the slot.... heat the screw with a solder tool... that melts the resins in the wood which acts as a glue when you first run the screw in... back it out... always drill a pilot hole.... and use wax on the screw to act as a lubricant when you run it in... and pro tip . . NEVER use the screws that come with parts.... with the possible exception of a few of the better known boutique parts makers, they all use the cheapest junk they can find.. made of inferior steel... replace the screws with quality Stainless steel screws,, you can usually find them
  17. one of the primary issues with thin wooden pick guards is the warpage.... I circumvent this by laminating a veneer to a piece of bakelite, then shaping the pick guard from that.... stays dead flat for as long as its a pickguard.... It can be finished in many ways... rk
  18. Quite possibly the finest, most articulate, well balanced and most versatile of all pups can be found here,.,, http://wildepickups.com And at the insanely low prices Becky still asks, they are the "deal of the Century" rk
  19. I don't know what ya have in mind, but you may wanna explore Q-Parts knobs, the have quite a proliferation fo different "looks" and are of superb quality. rk
  20. On LP types the slot depth is the thickness of the typical headstock veneer, about 1/16 inch on the headstock side and whatever that dictates on the fingerboard side... the precise depth is not even remotely important as long as there is SOME depth to it on the headstock side. You also must keep the truss rod nut in mind... you want enough wood to receive the truss rod cover screw IF your cover has a screw located in the center. rk
  21. don't sweat it.. take a piece of sandpaper about 100 grit (not particularly important) place it on the neck fingerboard then scrub the nut back and forth until you achieve the raidused bottom.... this is a pretty common solution. rk
  22. Yeah, the UK,, sit it out to dry and year later it may be more damp than initially.. r
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