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whoofnagle

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  1. Thanks for the detailed response. As stated - well above my talent level - I was really curoius how you got there. I can't wait to see the finished product. Will you be going with a Birdseye neck? I seem to remember you saying that you liked them a bunch (or at least used them a bunch). Bill
  2. First of all - to restate theobvious - that is a badass looking guitar. I too am glad you will keep it natural. Your quote above indicates that BE burl is not for a newbie - (I hope this does not come out wrong) but why? Is it because of the need to do the Epoxy filling and the CA bath? You obviously started somewhere (messed up - I assume). WHat should the less experienced do? In other words what are some ways from learning without jumping in to the fire. Thanks, Bill
  3. Thanks for the tips on the router direction, etc. I thought about using my table, but I felt and still feel better routing most things from the top (just my opinion). The router was real tight in between the two pieces of mahogany (at some point I hope they are necks for an LP style - 1 thing at a time). The tear out was my fault - as I was repositioning the router (putting it back in the slot after lowering the bit) I hit the go switch. Again - the tear out has no affect on the tightness of the fit. Heck with the fretboard - my guess it will never be seen. . Already checked - several times! Again thanks for the advice - I hope to get some work done on the gluing of the fretboard and shaping later this week (time permitting). Bill
  4. Well here is a pic of the template on top of the cut neck. First time I used o robo sander - pretty cool. Hopefully, I will touch it up with the router and drill the tuner holes after work one night this week. Neck Bill
  5. Well, It only took me about 2 years and 3 tele's later to get up the nerve to build a neck. Additionally, having a full time job and a 2 1/2 year old limits my time. I spent the last two days making sure that my template was the right dimensions - and making marks on the limba blank. This morning I decided to give it a go, but not until I asked Mattia another question about the positioning of the truss rod. The neck will be a T style 25 1/2" with either a nice BE maple fret board or a rosewood. It will be 22 frets with no overhang on the fretboard. Rather, the neck will be extended just a hair. I was lucky enough to get several preslotted boards from a friend, not to mention a pretty good Luthier, Ron Thorn. A few months back we were talking about my first neck build. He mentioned that he had several boards around the shop. Next thing I know the Fedex man shows up with 10 preslotted boards - pretty cool. So back to this morning: After marking the location of the nut and the end of the neck. I marked where the truss rod should start and stop. For this project I decided that I wanted the adjustment to come from the head side. In order to route the truss rod channel I used two pieces of mahogany as fences: Pre route set up Pre route #2 The truss rod is a LMI double action rod - does not require a special bit 1/4" wide . The route went well - had one small tear, but overall a very tight fit. In fact i have to tap pretty hard to get in in place. Here are a few more pics. I will post more as I have the time to work on it. Test fitting as I went along Shows tear out View down the neck Bill
  6. Ok - I am still confused as to where the channel should start if I want to be able to adjust it from the top (head). Should the channel start before (closer to the body) the nut? If not how far above the nut slot should it start? Bill This is for a Fender T style neck
  7. Thanks for the input. I completely forgot about the Safe T Planer. Well the center line has been drawn on the neck blank and the FB is ready to be glued. I plan on routing the truss rod channel today (assuming I have time - 2 1/2 yr old daughter keeps me busy). IS there any advantage of having the truss rod adjust at the top of the neck versus the body (besides the ease of access)? Also, if I do make it at the top - How far in front of the nut should I stop (position the truss rod)? I do not remember reading this anywhere. (OOPS - LMI suggests about an inch from the nut). Thanks for the help. Bill
  8. I have heard very good things about the valve junior for the price. As for the Mini Z - you can get one for less than $500 if you watch ebay. Also, you might want to look for a used Farben Bastage. You can also find them used for less the $500. I used to own one - they are a blast and you can swap a number of tubes in and out without having to rebias - EL84, EL34, 6V6, 6L6, blah blah. Ben Fargen makes great class A stuff. Check out the clips on his web site: Fargen BAstage Info
  9. I am about to start building my first neck this weekend, but before I begin I have a question. It will be a limba neck with a BE Maple fretboard (pic included). The limba is slightly thicker than 3/4" it is closer to 7/8". Thus do I have to plane it to 3/4" or can I take care of the excess when shaping the neck? Could I just make the neck pocket (Tele guitar) a hair deeper to handle the thicker base? I assume it is better to plane it, but I do not have easy access to the equipment Bill
  10. About a year ago I finished a maple/mahogany tele. I am sure the thread is floating in the archives. After finishing what I thought was a nice blue top - I shipped the body to a friend with access to a spray booth (production shop at his office). After a year I finally got the body back - ha screwed up the finish, at least he sanded the body back. TIME TO DYE AGAIN!!! Today I masked off the top and started to apply DEFT sanding sealer to the Mahogany body. Here is the question. After applying several coats of Sanding sealer I lightly sanded the coats flat. However, when I went to wipe off the build up much of the white (dust) seems to have settled in the grain of the wood. Am I right in assuming that when my friend sanded the body back he went through the grain filler? Do I need to resand and reapply grain filler? Thanks in advance, Bill
  11. Well I just finished the tele: - 1 Piece Black limba - Harmonic Design Pups - Warmoth Neck - Tru Oil finish Here are a few more shots: In progress shots http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/who...e/LimbaT016.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/who...e/LimbaT008.jpg A few more of the finished product: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/who...e/LimbaT048.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/who...e/LimbaT047.jpg Bill
  12. The guitar is one that is being built by Ron Thorn - I think the middle pup will be used - it will be wired much like a strat (should result in some nice in between sounds). The fret board is brazillian rosewood
  13. Again, Thanks for the kind words - and maybe someday I will be able to build a Tele as nice as the ones posted by Drak in the past. Yes, I do post on Ron's forum. I have #109 on order with him - it should be completed in the very near future . Here is a pic - talk about a Limba machine - 2 xP90 and a Hum in the bridge. Also, a link to some of the in progress shots, not to mention a future ash Thorn. Limba Thorn #109 #109 - Back While I am typing - here is a couple of more links to some LPJRs I plan on doing this summer - my first two neck projects. JRs - Limba, Mahog #2 Bill
  14. Thanks for the kind words. the neck is an old warmoth neck. Bill
  15. Thought I would post a pic and link to a limba T guitar that I have been working on lately. Bill My Webpage
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