Jump to content


Established Member
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by whoofnagle

  1. Drak - those are interesting points. If I am not mistaken the Callaham gives a pretty good tutorial on why their remake is better than the original. I always thought the traditional style would be more difficult to set up. Bill
  2. What a top - looks like mighty fine work. Love the Koa/mahogany combo, but if it were up to me there would be no pickguard. That wood is too beautiful to cover. However, it is not . Great job - it is a looker!!!! Bill
  3. Looks pretty good from here. Did you use a tamplate or was the trace done freehand? Bill
  4. I think when I asked a similar question a month or so ago I was told to put the saddles about 90% up, that way if I needed to move forward I would have a little room to play. Bill
  5. Genbloke, You say the the wood you are using is bigger than normal. What is the size? I have a blank (not mahogany) that is almsot 2" thick. I too was thinking of doing a tele shape and carving the back. Although, I thought maybe this would be a good piece to make the tele shape and then carve the top - before trying with a nice figured top on say an LP style. I have seen some really neat pictures of tele style guitars with a carved top. Bill
  6. To all, thanks for the responses. Once again, I have done most of the research on my own - I have been to talk with several local dealers as well as several on the internet. I have even used woodfinder.com and have it bookmarked. Once again, my main thrust was to find out if there were dealers that people in the DC metro area felt were better to work with on any number of fronts whether it be cost, selection, attitude of the salesman. In no way have I asked someone to do all the work for me (hold [my] hand to lead [me] to the wood of paradise that awaits [me] right around the corner.) If people do not have the desire to share that information, however silly I think that is, that is fine. Yes, all of the hints that were given are good for someone looking for the first time, and yes I feel that hand holding is not required. However, I am a bit suprised at the attitudes sometimes conveyed on this board. Oh well - inspite of this thread, I will continue to read this thread in hopes of picking up more tips on what to do and what not to do. I have learned a lot from all of the members here both new and experienced. Bill
  7. Maybe I was a bit unclear on my last post. Yes, I know how to use a phonebook, and yes, I have found many local places to by wood, but I thought this forum was for helping each other (sharing info). I am sorry that I asked if you had any suggestions. I thought that based on all of your posts, opinions, and experience that you might have a few places that you have had good luck. Stupid me. Bill
  8. Drak, Where do you buy your wood in MD or do you? I am in Nova and am still looking for places around here. By the way I have a super 90 and a vintage plus on order from HD for my mahog tele (shape-only). Bill
  9. http://www.thornguitars.com/thornguitars/008body.jpg One more. Here is one of many guitars that Scott Heatley builds - very nice guy from Canada. http://www.heatleyguitars.com/ http://www.heatleyguitars.com/tyrelsMod/fullfrnt.jpg
  10. My thought is a standrd tele bridge or hipshot. Unless there are other suggestions.
  11. Thanks. That is what I suspected. Now, if I have a body (mahogany) that is @ 1 5/16" thick and a top which is 1/4" thick, is this too thin to make a thinline like guitar? Yes, the body depth would be 1 9/16", but I guess I am curious what this will do? I assume maybe less sustain? Also, I assume there will still be enough body to support a bolt on neck? Any thoughts for or against making a body 1 9/16" thick? Is this too thin? Thanks again!
  12. Having never played a tele thinline, I have a few questions: 1. Is the body the standard 1'3/4" thick? 2. How much of the body is chambered? Bill
  13. You are correct sir- the horns are slightly off. I was going for a tele shape, but not an exact replica. Also, on the one with Koa, I did snag the hell out of the horn (the body, not the koa), but a little band sawing and routing and I was back in business - the top was routed to match. In my opinion the Black Limba - was the most difficult to cut- wanted to chip - could be me and the router, but I am learning The KOA top was jointed, glued and routed by me - I was very excited with how well it came out. My thought on the wood is if I am spending a lot of time building this why do it with just any wood. The fact taht the wood is nicer makes me work harder, plus IF I actually complete it I will have something that I want to play not just say I did it. If not the fire will burn bright and I will try again! 3 bodies are being built because there are too many combinations that I want to play. I still have tons to learn and have learned a lot from reading this board. All you guys are great help!!! Bill
  14. If you want to use Koa, I say use it. The first guitar that I made/ am making has a KOA top. Yes it is a bit pricey, but if you are comfortable working with wood, I say go for it. I had done zero woodworking before beginning this project. I have 3 bodies going at once, 1. 1/4" Koa top over mahog, 2. 1'3/4" Black Limba, 3. 1/4' redwood over mahog. All will be tele shape with varying styles of p/u's. To me the Koa cut very easily - I picked this top up on ebay for about $85- very reasonable. All koa = $$$$$$$$$$$$$ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v403/who...imba_koa003.jpg the rest : http://photobucket.com/albums/v403/whoofnagle/ p/u's on order!!
  15. My guess is with an angled jig you will do fine. While I have only done bolt-on necks, using a jig and router for the neck was easier to me than using the router to do the body as a whole.
  16. Yes, It is the overhang gap that was an eye sore. Sorry for the confusion. I too think the neck pickup will mask the gap. Thanks for the kind words and help. Bill
  17. Man, I feel like I should hide my head in the sand, but then again this is my first try. The pocket is routed to 5/8" depth (the one I am making). I have not done anything to it. I will leave it as is. I went back and checked my tele, it is a tad deeper than 5/8", maybe my measurement is slightly off, but that still leaves me with what to do about not using a pickguard. If I am looking/measuring correctly w/out a pickguard I have about 3/16" between the body and the overhang of the neck (tele is about the same). While a pickguard is about 1/8" there is a small gap, but the lack of the pickguard looks odd to me. Oh well. Thanks for the advice. Here are some additional pictures. My Webpage And yes no more work until the bridge/pickups are delivered. Bill
  18. Okay- I now have another question. By routing out the neck pocket a bit deeper, will there be any problems with using a tradional tele bridge(maybe a gotoh)? Or will I just need to lower my pickups by say 1/8" to accomidate the fact that the neck will sit about 1/8" below where I had originally envisioned.. Thanks for all of your answers. Books are a great way to start, but doing the work and asking more questions is definately the way to learn. Bill
  19. Great. I did not know if it would mess something else up. Thanks! Bill
  20. Well I just got back from routing the neck cavity for my guitar. Man was I nervous. I took the 1/4" templates I had and transfered them to MDF board before routing. I thought that would allow for more template space (3/4"). It was very helpful. Additionally it allowed me to smooth some of the rough edges on the templaate (by the way -ordered from guitarbuildingtemplates.com). To me the spacing for the neck was just a tad off (greater than 2 3/16"). Well all seemed to go well. No major problems, but am glad it is over. However, I did walk away with a question. I routed to a depth of 5/8" as suggested in readings and the warmoth web site, however, I do not wish to use a pickguard. When the neck is in place there is a 1/8" to 3/16", gap between the body and neck in front of where the neck pickup will go. When I looked at my Am. Std. tele the neck pocket is almost 1/8" deeper than mine, thus the pickguard allows a pretty flush fit with the neck. Do I route deeper? Have others had this problem? By the way the neck is snug. A tighter fit than my fender!! Bill -man am I having fun with this project!
  21. Thank you. The top wood is Koa and the body is mahogany. Bill
  22. I do have a guide to work with, and I was also thinking I could make a pickup ring out of the leftover wood from the top. The bottom line is my tele is mounted through the scratch plate, not the body. I figure screws can be used to mount directly to the body, but I was unawre that I could go deeper than 5/8". Thanks. This is my first attempt and I am trying to minimize the mistakes! Bill
  23. I am about to go and rout the pickups for my tele styly guitar. I know my neck pocket needs to be 5/8"deep, but are the pickup depths the same?. I would hate to make something to deep or shallow. Also, I plan on installing some kind of single coil p/u in the neck (maybe a rio grande) without a scratch plate. My only refernce for pickups is my tele which is mounted with a switchplate. Does this change how I need to route? I assume that I will just screw the p/u directly to the body. Thanks for your help. I am anxious to work! Bill
  24. Yes, I did cut the body and top prior to gluing. I thought that is the advice several people on this forum gave me from a previous post, but I miught have miss understood their responses. The gluing running out was expected, but lining up my center lines for top and body was a bit more difficult than I thought. Next time I will cut only one before gluing. It looks like there is a pretty tight fit all the way around. I did do a little sanding today where the top overhung the body ever so slightly. Now I must order a set of pickups. Anyone ever use the Harmonic design Super 90? What are your thoughts? BIll
  25. Well I am continuing to work on my first guitar. I have just glued the KOA top to the body. What an experience to date. The rough cutting of the top and body with a bandsaw is very easy. (By the way I used the shop at WOODCRAFT in Springfield, VA-great people and very helpful.) The routing of both pieces went okay, I snagged a bit on the horn of the body, but with a little sanding things seemed to take shape (a learning lesson). Prior to gluing, I thought that this was going to be simple. however, what a mess, glue was everywhere. Onceagain a lesson learned- I must have used too much. However, I did my best to clean it up while it was wet and sanded the rest. Tele project I have two questions: 1. What is the best method for gluing a top to the body. I believe mine turned out okay, but it was a mess-I have nothing to compare it to. 2. Is it possible to drill the cavities for the electronics without routing from the top? In other words, I would like to keep the top clean without a pickguard. I am wondering if it is possible to drill the channels for the wires after routing the pickup cavities. I am hoping to drill from within the pickup cavity. Thanks, Bill
  • Create New...