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About metallisomething

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  1. KMENSIK, thank you for posting this. It looks like an awesome build. You decided to have the adjustment at the headstock. You say that you had to angle the access hole, is it difficult to get your allen wrench or whatever bit, to make good contact with the truss rod nut without slipping because of the angle? I found another source on youtube of it being done He doesn't mention depth, but he clearly routes the trussrod channel all the way to the end of the heel.
  2. I'm also interested in this concept because I like the functionality of the 2 way rods and the ease of installation (no specialty curved jigs). MLED you're right in that every 1 piece neck build I've seen uses the traditional curved rod. Also, in looking at telecasters from various years and setups, some have the adjustment at the headstock and some at the heel. I did a quick calculation on using a 2 way rod on a one piece, rear mounted neck that I'll share. You might be stuck with only being able to have the adjustment at the heel, because I think you'd be too low for the headstock because your trussrod channel starts from the rear of the neck. This isn't a problem for the traditional rod because it arcs up at each end, you just drill the hole in the headstock to meet the rod channel. The stewmac 2 way hot rods are 11.1mm deep. I added another 4mm to the trussrod channel you would need to route as space for the 'skunk stripe', totalling 15.1mm deep channel. A random telecaster spec I found online states a thickness at the 1st fret (thinnest point) of 21.8mm. 21.8mm-15.1mm = 6.7mm of material from the fretboard down to the channel. Which seems like it would be enough material to be strong enough. One question I have about the 2 way rods is whether they can be installed with the adjustment nut on top or bottom. The pics on stewmacs website has them all on the bottom (meaning the back of the neck) . It does get slightly more complicated. The skunk stripe/trussrod channel on traditional truss rod fenders doesn't go all the way to the end of the heel. It stops before the end and a hole is drilled from the heel to meet the channel (just like the headstock end) and the rod is fed through. Because the 2 way rod is thicker, one would have to make the channel and stripe slightly longer. I was considering using a spoke nut rod so it could be adjusted without removing the neck, which seems tedious. But because the spoke has a larger diameter than the rod it is attached to, I would have no choice but to route all way to the heel. Then, like some fenders that have this rod type, route into the fretboard or neck pocket to expose the nut and allow space for adjustments. Like to hear your thoughts on my thoughts!
  3. No incidents that stand out in my mind. It is a pretty old guitar so it's been around. I'm only thinking about repair because although the neck isn't supported there, it rests up against it and I've been having some tuning issues (that I'm sorting out) and was wondering if maybe that little movement in the body would give some play in the neck. Also, when you say 'water thin' CA is that just regular CA (superglue) or is water added for more.... thin-ness ?
  4. Maybe not the neck joint crack you were expecting. Guitar: Yamaha Pacifica The pics below are the small piece of the body between the bolt on neck and the pickup cavity. this space is usually covered by the pickguard. This picture shows that the crack is severe enough that the wood has moved, In the next pic you can see I can move the wood back flush and it becomes less visible. Opposite corner Other side. You can see that the cracks have not only come down vertically, but are starting to cut accross. So my first instinct is to glue this back in place. However, I cannot move the cracked wood enough to get any glue in there. Should I be (carefully) breaking the whole piece and gluing? Any advice is appreciated!
  5. This looks awesome. From another left handed person, a Left PRS is exciting to see.
  6. Lately if I touch my pickups (depending on which one is selected, of course) there will be a loud snapping sound, like a single crack. Doesn't always happen, but often. Singles and humbuckers. Yamaha pacifica, 5 way switch, 2 singles 1 humbucker. any ideas? thanks
  7. I can't find the schematics for those footswitches online. I guess it might be easier to buy the footswitch for the vox, its $35CAD, rather than trying to build my own.
  8. not to be brand specific.....hehe here are the footswitches corresponding to each amp. The 1 on the vox is overdrive on/off and the 2 is tremolo on/off. both are stereo 1/4 jacks. http://img3.musiciansfriend.com/dbase/pics.../0/1/251201.jpg http://www.woodbrass.com/images//woodbrass/PEDL013.JPG I would be wanting to use the Marshall footswitch with the Vox amp.
  9. the answer to that is I don't know. Yet, anyway. Only thing I can do is try it, if/when I get this other amp.
  10. I have a 3 channel (clean, OD1, OD2) marshall that has a footswitch with two switches on it. I'm thinking about getting a smaller vox amp that has the option for a footswitch also with 2 switches to go between clean, overdrive and tremolo on/off. Can I use the marshall footswitch with the vox amp?
  11. if you want to rule out #3 being the cause, lift the strings out of the nut and rub a little lip chap stick on the area that sits in the nut.
  12. You hit the nail on the head. Not all guitars will use pickups that you can easily purchase on their own, but you'll get an idea. Also look into bands and artists you like the tone of and try to see what guitars and gear they use to get an idea. In the end all guitars are different and you won't know if you like them until its all said and done, see if your local guitar shop has an exchange period for pickups, they know you might not like them after you buy them, just don't butcher the wire supplied with the pickups and they might take them back. What advantage does rosin core solder have? how many watts was your $10 soldering iron?
  13. What kind if wire do you guys use for wiring pickups? Where do you get it from? Also, where can you find things like capacitors and copper shielding tape, or conductive paint, and pot and switch cleaner? I guess I'm basically looking for a one stop shop for all my guitar electrical needs...
  14. haha not an unfair assumption at all! I used to be into metal, when I first signed up and built my first guitar here. It's also a reference to an episode of Seinfeld. anyway, I'm not really into metal anymore. Its a Yamaha Pacifica (humbucker, single, single) and I'm looking for good tone and lots of sustain in clean tones, but as well as distorted tones. Originally I was just going to replace the neck with an EMG-SA, then realized i can't mix active with passive without a headache, so I'm exploring my options on either converting the whole guitar to active, or trying to find a passive, noiseless, single coil with lots of sustain and good clean tones..... listen to some songs by bands like Third eye blind and listen to their clean tones and you'll get an idea of what im looking for
  15. How did he remove the neck once it was set in? Also how would you recommend making a shim so small, but that has to be so flat and precise?
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