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its not a knock unless you are insecure....he asked a question which is the best and i answered it.....pure and simple.....trying to equate it to acoustic is a huge leap of logic, but nice try anyway.....im not sure why you fight it so much.....for me, im always trying to get better and try new things and im a big believer in technology... we all know you take great pride and care with your finishes...hubris is definately not lost on you.....youve done very well with what you have and probably work harder than you should....but you should stop leaving yourself open all the time, because you dont know everything and you might just get schooled publicaly

like the statement says, polyester is whats used by the pro shops and in the guitar industry.....anything else is outdated....if you want to be considered a professional, then you need to keep up with whats going on in the industry.....i know why darren uses what he does.....i also know why his ibanez finishes are the first to flake off in patches...and he asked what the best finish is......the answer is polyester

simtec thats what every manufacturer uses and professional paint shops use.....cures in hours

get ready scott, i got a cool jig we have to make....we need at least 35 oh i cant wait for the debate, er arguments over it

hey sully, glad you are here

well you can go down and buy a decent router for 50 bucks and get a template......and it will come out real nice.....ive also seen people rout the cavities with a drill and drill press and come back and clean it all up with a chisel

you know what you should offer, brian, are some jigs, cauls and useful tools that you make yourself...a lot of people either dont think about that stuff or have the time to make them heck, i know a certain jig that me and my friend there will spend all weekend fighting over and making 35 jigs...id rather buy them then have to listen to him whine

its not difficult to move the paint after you dip it.....you can use newspapers rolled up to brush it away or even a little fan.....you cant swirl the paint with a hairdryer, it will dry the paint

what he is talking about is an old school furniture finish similar to whitewash or milk paint....you should be able to find the supplies on woodworker.com......its not bleaching.....you could also just do a transp white

i gots me one comming to the shop......im so excited i cant wait

well, im looking forward to the speedloader

well swamp ash you have to look in louisiana (typing one hand here with a baby on my lap)...i have a local guy i use for everything.....but typical hardwood suppliers just carry ash as a generic term for all the species...it could be southern or northern.....i havent had many customers request southern ash specifically, so i just use "ash".....and you should be able to get ash anywhere

i just recently had some basswood that had some curl to it....and some alder come to think of it....not as pronounced as maple though

the gilmer stuff is roughed in......you would still have to run it on a joiner before gluing.......and then you still want to run it through a planer afterwards..... im just real cheap.........scott will pipe in with stories about that

lgm got it right....its the best system...locking nuts are old school now.....(carvin nuts come pre-slotted by graphtech) shhhhh