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criss

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Everything posted by criss

  1. i want to do a headstock and it needs to be painted after the Mop is in . Do i mask the logo or do i just paint over it and scrape the paint later . Any tips would be a big help I ve done lots of fretboard inlays before so know how to inlay just never done any that is painted later Cheer Criss
  2. Thanx for all the input fellows . WIll try contacting du pont and see what they can do . Thanx again Criss
  3. Thanx Mark But all the du pont codes in oz don t match up to the U.S codes , so i have run into a wall at every du pont stockist in Oz . Cheers and thanx again Criss
  4. Hi Was hopeing someone could spray some of there fender colours onto some paper or thin wood . Would send you out the money for postage and your time etc . Mainly want them so i can get them color matched in Australia , have been buying re ranch but can only get this sent via shipping and its takeing ages to get here . The more colors you can send the better , then i can keep these for future projects As i said i don t expect this for nothing , i can send the money via paypal . Cheers Criss Melbourne Australia
  5. I think the feel of a neck is all subjective , one mans trash is anther mans treasure . Ive played and im sure other have too other people guitars and they don't like the feel . So if i buy a pre made fretboard and attach that to my guitar neck am i still truely building my guitar ? And should i start makeing my own pots , bridge , tuners etc to be a real builder . Hmm maybe i should start makeing my own strings too .
  6. I put a pencil mark down the middle of the neck , that way you know not to sand there and expose the trussrod . If you need to take off a fair bit of wood just keep checking your measurments as you go , and once down to where you want to be add the line down the centre . Used a cheap rasp file from a $2 set of files so i guess its worth 50 cents . And also used cheap pack of $2 sand paper . I spent 4 hours ( not in one session ) shapeing the neck alone . I have only done a few necks , but if you take your time and measure etc etc its really not as hard as you think . If one man can do it , then you can . im not a expert and may not be the best necks on the planet , but i have no doubt you can easly make great necks if you take your time and ask questions etc . Same goes for inlay i was so scared by the whole deal , i put it off for ages . But after i did it i found it is not hard . Same thing applys , take your time and be patient . To me at first guitar building was full of voodoo , but its realy not as hard as i thought . Same applys im no expert but i can already make a very good guitar , not amazeing but still a very nice guitar . Im not trying re invent the wheel , take my time and up to now have had good results . Theres no reason you to can't build a nice guitar
  7. I use the dremel to cut out my inlays . Ouick and easy . i won't bother with the saw again unless it was very intricate . i use spray adhesive to attach my pattern and used the dremel stone to do the final shapeing . In my view if your cutting out your average inlays , Shark fins , blocks , bowties , sculls etc , the dremel wins hands down . I can knock out a set in easy 1/4 the time it takes by saw . You do waste a little bit more MOP but its really not a issue as the waste is nt really that great . If you do use a dremel , wear goggles and a mask , MOP stinks when it gets hit hard with a dremel and there s lots of dust you don't want to breath in . And you gotta look after your eyes from the flying dust etc If you ve got a dremel give it a go , use the stone type wheels etc . Dead easy even for a newbie . Quicker , no busted blades and good results .
  8. How much wood do you leave on the guitar top when you rout your cavitys ( toggle switch and for long post pots ) Im doing a flying v flat topped body is 37mm thick and need your input , i dont want to go to far with the rout . And do you drill your holes thru the guitar top before or after you rout . ? ANy tips would be great .
  9. Guitarfetish has very cheap parts , but they are not junk . I ordered a set of his 59paf s , and they sound to my ear easy as good as semour duncan . $48 for a pair of paf s , exellent . Watch his sales on flebay , you can get some huge saveings . Buy in batchs is what i do , i got 2 string thru hardtails ( gold and black ) plus set of vintage pafs and a few other bits for $60 . he is also a great fellow , friendly and helpful .
  10. Im building a Polka Randy rhoads V and ive put the double action truss rod in so you have access via the neck pickup cavity . My question is whats the best way to cover the top of the guitar truss rod channel that runs between the end of the finger board and the pickup cavity . The top of the truss rod allan nut is just below the guitar top and ends inbetween the end of the fret board and neck pickup cavity , im guessing i should use a thin bit of wood and glue it on top . ? How do i do this without glueing the rod , or should i do it another way . Any help would be a big help as im kinda stumped Thanx
  11. http://www.buildyourguitar.com/resources/tips/eangle.htm If you already have your bridge this is a good way of double checking . Could be worth a look see . HTH
  12. I use a product called enviro tec its a two part resin . Drys clear and rockhard , no bubble probs that ive ever had . And ive poured this stuff over a inch deep for model projects . What you can do if you do get bubbles once you ve poured your epoxy is blow on the top useing a drinking straw .Sit your straw just above the epoxy and lightly blow , you ll see the epoxy move a little and bubbles should go bye bye once they are exposed to air . This will kill any bubbles and you have control over the spot your blowing . ( just a light breath will do the trick , dont blow so hard to send your epoxy flying out of your rout . But your best bet is do a few tests on some junk wood first . Its very easy to do but test a few times . This should all work with epoxy , but get 30min drying so you have time to work with it . It should nt be bad re bubbles if you mix it correctly . ie dont go crazy whipping it up to much . Worst case is lay it down in two or 3 thin layers , the straw blowing will easly take care of any bubble in the thin layers . Lay one layer down , clear any bubble with your straw let it dry then repeat . Should be a easy job , i cant see why you could nt do it in one pour . Pour half the rout deal with bubbles then pour the rest . Job done no bubbles should be the result , you don't need vacum machinces for small jobs like this . A 2cent straw and some time should be all you need . Do a few tests and get back and let us know how it worked out . HTH
  13. I would take my time and look around for a good gibson les paul . The Prs is a good unit , but in my humble view a great les paul will wipe the floor of a Prs everytime . I ve tryed quite a few Prs when my brother was going to buy one , we took along my 83 les paul custom to A/B with the Prs . And without a doubt the les paul was much better for the sound my brother wanted . Ask yourself Why do Prs want to copy the les paul ? Because even they know there is something about the les paul combo of wood ,shape etc that you just can,t produce unless you copy it almost exact . But after saying all that your best bet is keep playing every and any Prs and les paul you can get your hands on , and you 'll know when you come across that special guitar . Secret is take your time and play lots , you ll soon know when your playing a dog or that special keeper . There are dog Prs and les pauls out there and many gems too . Its your guitar so buy what inspires you , and something that is special to you .
  14. Thanx for all the kind words people Bytrix There realy is nt much to it . step one is to cut out your inlay pictures and mount them onto your MOP . I used spray on adhesive , its cheap and wont swell your paper . I tryed to use white glue at first but that swlls your paper . Now you can cut out your mop with a jewelers saw ( takes ages ) So i used my dremel with a fine cut off wheel ( make sure you wear goggles the wheels shatter sometimes and go everywhere ) , you don,t have to cut them exact at first . Stay out side the final shape , then use your dremel grinding stone to get the final shape . Its very quick , you can knock them all out in around 2 hours . It realy is very easy . Its just like dot to dot stay in the lines type of thing . Once you have your bow ties ready , i put all the dots into my board . Rule down the centre , then rule from one side of your board to the other . This will make a cross , the centre is where you punch your board for drilling . ( rember to work out how wide you want your board to be first ) Use a bradpoint drillbit , you can put the point right on your punch mark . Once again all very easy , take your time . And put some tape on to your drill bit once you have got how deep you need to drill for the dots . ( test first on the end of your board you wont need , drop a dot in and see how deep it is ect ) Drill your dots now I used more spray mont on the back of the bowties ( cut the excess paper off ), then i superglued the bowties to the board . The paper you glued to the back of the bowtie will help when you need to remove the bowties , i did't crack one as its only the paper that is glueing to the board with the bowtie mounted ontop . ( kinda a version of setchs exellet tape inlay method ) Trace around the bowtie with a scapel , take your time you don't have to go real deep just kinda scrape around them . When youv finished traceing around all the inlays you just use a scapel to slide under the bowtie and they came off easy . Or you can just push hard on the fat end of the inlay and they pop off fairly easy . Rub some chalk onto the board and rub it with your thumb , you ll see how it fills the scapel marks you did around the bowties . Now grab your dremel and set the debth to a little under your mop thinkness and start to rout out our shapes . Take your time and stay close to your chalk marks . i brought the dremel router base for all this work . easy stuff again , just like drawing inside the lines but your useing a dremel I use superglue to glue in the inlays and used a radius block to sand everthing flush . It realy is much easyier than i thought . And you can do a few tests on the end of your board to get some confidence first . Supplys where brougt from perry ( see list ) 1 ounce of MOP ( prob get close to 2 sets from this ) jewelers saw ( Did nt use this much at all ) Mop Dots Router bit ( i think its stewmac 5151 carbide bit ) Ebony Fretboard Pre slotted 25''scale radius 12 '' Radius Block 12 '' Other bits i got localy Dremel Stand super glue Scapel sandpaper If you need any help just say the word . Im not a expert but im fairly confident now . Hope this is of help You can do it too people Now go be one with the MOP and your fret board
  15. Just thought i would show the inlays for my polka dot v im working on . I would also like to say even though this is my first inlay project , i found it much easier than i thought it would be . I took my time 1 hour or so on each bowtie to try get them as good as i could . I would also like to thank perry for going above and behond helping me out , and all the great people here for there inspireing guitar builds and tutorials etc . So i guess im trying to say to all the new builders , take your time get some supplys and ask questions . If someone with my skills ( or should i say lack of skills ) can do it you can do it too .
  16. Yes, but I don't think Perry has an arguement with that, only the statement made where it was 1mm from top of the 12th fret to the middle of the E string, which would make it .5mm after you accounted for half the width of the string. That's what we don't agree with. Again, I think he just worded his statement wrong. ← Im guessing thats what this fellow ment . I thought it was from the bottom of the string to the top of the fret also . My bad i should read twice post once .
  17. I Just looked at my les paul , got my steal ruler and its at 1mm . So my les paul is telling me it is in fact obtainable . Anything lower than the 1mm on my guitar would be very very low and would buzz for sure .
  18. I would score the bottom and sides first with a sharp hobby knife . Im no expert but this should help with removeing the nut cleanly , and help with not damageing the finish . Maybe do a search too , the experts here know a great deal of nice tricks .
  19. If you want to make a eddie frankenstrat copy the place to go is here http://www.eddievanhalen.com/cgi-bin/index...oard=evhguitars There are people there that will show you how they do it . I think frankenstraat who is a builder knows more about eddies guitars than eddie knows . Have a look there as they can give to advice on everything from pickupz to painting etc . A very good place with friendly and skilled builders . The first thread you should go to ( if building a frankenstart copy ) is INSIDE FRANKENSTRAATS DUNGEON! Youll see it half way down the first page . You ll see how bleed under your tape is a good thing and what colours to do first ect . I hope you have a couple of spare days , because there is a huge amount of info there Have fun
  20. Hell yeah! Can't wait, I'll bet it going to sound great. Jason ← Looks great , nice job What did the strat kit come with and what was the price for the kit . Thinking of buying one for myself Thanx
  21. With the tape method is this correct . Stick masking tape onto fretboard Glue inlys to tape ( Whats the best glue to use Super glue ? ) Scribe round inlays with the scalpel several times ( What stops the inlay from comeing off the tape after you scribe around it the first time ) Should i hold the inlay ? or follow the first scribe after the inlay comes away or will it stay put and i can keep going around it . Sorry for the stupid questions just that im not 100% clear on this method Thanx for your input
  22. How are you cutting your scarf joints ? Whats the bare minium tools i can use to make the cut ?. Can i use a plain old hand saw . i have access to a handheld circular saw and a electric compound mitre saw . What way do you recommend i go ? ive got a good guitar building book and have seen plenty of pic etc of the glueing up of the joint but can't see how they place all the clamps without the joint slipping . What tips can you pass on to me and others about scarf joints . your advice would be a huge help .
  23. i was also thinking of getting some pine to practice makeing a neck . I would nt be useing the neck just want to go thru the motions to give me a some practice with tools i have nt used before ( spokeshave etc ) As the body / neck would nt be used i cant see anything wrong with useing pine , but im very new to building .
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