Duff Beer Man

I didnt fold the plastic man, the plastic guy told me there was a way too but i couldnt figure out how. Same with the maple, you dont fold it for the arm rest, u have the maple the same all the way across, then use a spokeshave and scrape down the edge, just a heads up . Im more then willing to help u in anyway i can with my knowledge of the plastic and how to do it, i sent you a pm did u get it? Other then im very flattered that you are coping my idea. A mohogany, maple rg was actually gonna prolly be my neck project as well. I was gonna do a 7 string with a 5 piece through neck tho.

I was looking through the new stuff showed at winter namm and i saw the new RG ibanez has coming out. How would u go about doing a puzzle board top? Cutting each piece with a jewelers saw so they fit exact? Here is the side view, they are actually individuall pieces. Side

Flamed maple is now on both sides of the guitar and wow it looks great. It shocked me, i didnt expect it to look this nice, im very happy with this project so far. Its at school and i forgot to take pics while i was there but i will get some tomarrow.

Its funny how when u get so pumped about a project that u can trick urself into likeing something u dont.

So any good ways to make a voulute?

I used method 2, i left the headstock 3/4 inches thick cause i can sand it down with a drum sander, but then i started thinking about doing a volute and just didnt know how to start it, other then band sawing the neck to 1/2 leaving wood where the volute will be then carving it with rasp and spoke shaves.

Welp, neck is cut out and the back side of the veneer is cut out. I just need to go get some more glue to glue the veneer down. Im deciding if i want to make a voulate(sp?) on the back of my neck or not. Ive never done one so i dont know how. My headstock is 3/4 as it stands right now and i need it to be 1/2, i suppose i could cut the headstock down with the bandsaw, and cut the voulate out at the time? do u guys carve urs by hand or cut them out? Any tuts or help would be great.

cool guys thanks, i didnt know if stew macs was decent or not but i will go ahead an try it.

Just curious where all you in lay guys get your jewelers saws at? What brand? and what blades are the best?

Well, i just got dont routing the pickup cavities. Everything went smooth except one thing (seems with my projects at least always one thing happens and screw everything nice up for the day.) I was using a flush cut bit and using the body as a template and was cutting the maple to match the body, when the bearing on my bit just exploded..... Dont know how it happened, but i didnt notice it ( was watching wood, not bit) and went back in for the cut and right as i started to cut i noticed that i didnt have as much maple to take off and the bit took way more. Which gave me this. As soon as i saw that i stopped, vented for a few min, then strapped a new bearing on and went back at it. The new bearing did fine and i finished cutting the maple down. I then did the pickup cavities which went very smooth. Over all not a bad day, just a little annoying. Here is what it looks like. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/DuffB...GM/IMG_0230.jpg *Btw the dark stuff in the pickup cavitiy is a big knot in which i filled.

not for my new 56 fret guitar lol jk yeah i havent cut it to size yet.

Well, things are glued, i reglued the veneer, the front of the guitar has its veneer glued on, and the scarf joint is done. Im going out to route the guitar right now for pickups right now. Just though i would post a couple pics of the guitar before i do. Tomarrow i will be cutting out and gluing the back side with veneer and cutting out the neck. Ill keep you guys posted. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/DuffB...GM/IMG_0226.jpg Neck and body together, although the pic does the neck figure no justice. http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/DuffB...GM/IMG_0227.jpg

I just want to do a jem vine the pieces i have now are 9.5 inches long by 5.5 inches wide, and it should be enough to do a vine. How much would u charge for your piece?

I like it. Good work. I love the finishing of projects around here lately. Seems like once a week at least someone is posting finishing pics of their projects.

i thought about that ledz, and the reason i came up with was when you lnlay something u have it stick proud of the surface to sand down. With stuff this thin i would sand right through it to the material behind it. So if the material behind is the same as the front then it will look the same.

I bookmatched it, and it had saw marks all over it from the bandsaw used, so i glued the bookmatch together in order to sand the back side flat. Idk, maybe a weird sequence of events, but i do things like that sometimes.

today for the PGM i had to rerip part of the veneer cause the glue joint broke. Tomarrow im going to reglue it and also glue the scarf joint on the neck.

I will have to try that.

Well, i got three sheets of abalone of ebay for 14 bucks shipped to my house. Im very happy with the look of the sheets, however they are very then. They are .15mm thick, thats .006 of an inch thick. About the thickness of cardstock, for all of you know know what that is. My question is should i go ahead and try to inlay this stuff as it is. of should i use some epoxy and glue them together so i get some thickness when i inlay them in?

i have a straight scraper, i didnt think of that. My scraper however has never been sharpened, it came from stew mac do those things come sharpened at all? I didnt think to buy a sharpener at the time (dumb me).

Well im in some troble. I was doing practice routes on the jem today. I have to get the route for the binding exactly dead even flush with the top surface of the mirror. This is because if the binding route is to deep, i cant sand the mirror down, and if the binding is too high, i cant sand it down because i have no way of protecting the mirror while i sand... Any ideas on how to do this, my router is retarded.

If you read all the tuts then u surely saw this one right? Look at what stage one is.

i never use titebond on my neck joints. Titebond creeps with the changing of the seasons, i use a resin based glue that has to be mixed with water. Its brown and comes in powder form then mix with a little of water and its good.

That's certianly not my understanding. I believe it goes something like this (although it's certainly not always used this way): the amount of curl refers to the amount of figure in the wood, regardless of the type of figure. You've then got quilted figure (only found in Western Bigleaf maple, never in hard maples), which comes out best in a slab cut (IIRC), you've got flamed (which is that first pic, essentially, although that's a flame that's quite unique to western bigleaf, and I usually see it referred to as curly; see curlymaple.com, f'r instance) which comes out best in a quarter cut; within flame (which occurs in both hard and soft maples) you can differentiate between tiger (wide bands of flame) and fiddleback (which is the tighter curl you see on, you guessed it, many a fiddle). I'm not sure if I'm getting the usage of 'curl' and 'flame' confused here, though; it is messy. However, that quilt refers to a specific type of pattern found in bigleaf maple (and some other woods, like Sapele, from time to time) is certain, and it's different from a flame look. Yes, the quilted maple patterns are wider and look more like a quilt or tortoise shell pattern, whereas the flamed or curly maple look more linear, lines more so than shapes. As for the species issue, not sure. I stand corrected then, sorry guys i must of got the wrong info some where down the line. Btw scott love the RG buy whatever happened to the two necked jem?

Curly and flamed are the same quilt, just over time industry has come up with different terms for it. If you do a search on ebay for quilted maple instead of flamed you get more results because quilted is the older term so more people know it as that. Here is my contrabution to this thread.