Moreau

Hello, I ordered some tuners and have had them sitting for some time, and have noticed they are not snug in the peghead holes. What methods are there to resolve this, as I have had trouble finding metal tubing to reduce the hole, as i live in a small town. Thanks

Hello Everyone, I'm starting an SG necktru build and Ive got a few problems that I would like some advice on. I have a laminated neck, and one of the offset laminations is discoloured. So I was just going to cut in the angle of the headstock. But once accounting for the neck angle I plan to cut into the blank, and the fact that it is only 1.5" thick, I was wondering if it would be best to either, cut the angle in the neck, and scarf the joint once the neck was thicknessed, or, scarf now when its this thick, then cut the angle in the neck , therefore reducing the headstock angle by the amount of degrees in the Neck angle. Sorry if that made no sense. If I scarf now, I will have the joint in an odd place, which wont matter asthetically, cuz I plan on Putting a veneer on both sides of the peghead. But I'm curious if the location of the scarf joint will be a good or bad thing. Again I apologize, as this would be best explained with a drawing...

And the bodies, are they finished, or? What material are the bass bodies? Thanks

i visited a NZ luthier a few years ago, and he had one of the sexiest neck thru jazz basses ive ever seen. It was FLAMED maple. and oh so nice. and the neck was also flamed maple. It was the heaviest bass ive ever played, but it had a really nice tone to it. his name was peter steven. check him out. im not sure of the url... peace

Hey, Ive got an acoustic guitar and the a tuner is feelin a bit stiff and tunes oddly, so i was thinking how i could fix it cheaply. I have a set of gotoh tuners on an electric neck. I was able to put one of the gold buttons off my acoustic tuner, and put it on the black one. Used the gold washer with the black tuner as well. Asthetically its wicked. But is it possible to use the tuners on an acoustic? is there different tensions? Also the black tuner isnt very snug in the hole as the old ones i took off the acoustic. is it possible to still use the smaller black ones in my acoustic? there isnt much play. Thanks, hope i wasnt too confusing.

Today I just met with one of the coolest people in New Zealand. His name is Peter Stephen, and he is a luthier. He builds some of the most amazing instruments. Electrics, acoustic, uprights. You name it. I only wish I could have stayed to play them all. http://www.stephenstrings.co.nz/ I had come across his shop this past Sunday in Lyttleton, which is a small town just outside of Christchurch on New Zealand's South Island. Upon a quick online investigation, I had his name and email. I contacted him, and he invited me to stop by, so I decided to do just that. I got to his shop, and he was working on fixing up a couple hundred year old upright bass, but gladly put this aside, and began showing me the shop. I was quite intimidated, as he seemed to have a wealth of knowledge I can only wish to one day possess. He showed me all his templates and patterns, and some of his finished works. Peter was glad to answer any questions I had, and pretty much walked me through the entire process. I must say that he is quite the guy. His philosophies and opinions were very helpful, and gave me alot of insight into the trade. Just over 2 hours went by so quickly, I was sad to go, but he had alot of work to do, so I decided that I should be on my way. I hope that I may be fortunate enough to meet him again one day. Maybe even commision an upright from him. But regardless, I suggest you check out his site. It was by far one of the highlights of my trip to New Zealand, and it isn't even over. Chris

Well the CT one worked fine, and I see no adverse effects of using it. I will get a lower power one as i had a nice weller when i used to slot car, but i seem to have misplaced it. Anyone do stain glass and need an iron? LOL

Well i went and got an 80watt at canadian tire and it worked great. i was pretty quick with it, and only melted the solder. Im thinking to one from wal mart was not 100 watts as it said, it was a POS regardless. This new one works great, and it took about 5 minutes to solder the pickups in, as opposed to spending 2 hours with the wal mart one.

Bought a 100 watt wal mart soldering iron, and it seems that the iron isnt melting the fender solder. and the solder that came with the iron melts fine. But it wont stick to the stock solder. Any ideas on whats wrong?

Hey, Just got some 60s custom shop pickups for my MIM jazz bass, and I have the grounding plates, but the schematic doesnt mention them, and I cant find anything online about them. How do they wire in? connected to the pickup ground or what? and the bridge position plate has a big long strip going up vertically. I thought it would be a simple replacement, but unfortunately im kinda stuck here. Anyone have any tips? Thanks

Wow, thats wild. I love that strat, looks really natural. Juniperus chinesus is a chinese juniper no? its wild. you see so many bonsai trees that are chinese juniper, is the wood a hardwood? i thought needle trees were softwood.

to me it seems it was more of a hot rod type complex they had, where people just wanted to soup up an already good thing. sure they made a difference, but it doesnt seem justifiable. like the huge wing on the back of a front wheel drive honda.

why dont u just run it right into your reciever. use the bass' volume control, as a preamp to control the output volume of the bass. run it into whichever input. if its passive, then it should be fine. it would be the same level as a CD player no? dunno wat an active bass would do. im not willing to try my bass thru my stereo. let me know how it goes.

anyone?

I am going to begin prepping my wood to glue up for my guitar body. I am using a 3" mahogany strip down the middle, with the wings capped in a 1/4" maple top. I was curious as to how my top should be sanded. I have it rough planed to 1/4", should i sand it or just glue it up? i was also thinking of a veneer stripe along all the joints. would i just glue the pieces up the same as normal except apply glue, then veneer, then more glue and clamp? would i do the face of the wood and the veneer on both sides? or is there enough glue just on the face of the wood? I hope i didnt lose anyone.