kyot56

My two cents from waaaaaay back in shop class: Whenever we made furniture, we'd cut the wood, flip one piece and glue back together. My shop teacher explained that it prevented the wood from warping or cupping. I'm assuming it's the same principle in addition to the other replies of not enough wood being of correct width for a full body.

Thanks Maiden. It looks like it is the same size as the Gotoh.

Hey all- I have done a lot of searching but can't seem to find out the answer to this question. I have a TOM bridge and tailpiece that I need to buy replacement studs for (the ones that mount in the body). I have read about Nashville, ABR, etc but I have no idea which style I have. I know they came off an Epi LP Special II but that's about it. The posts fit into a 7mm hole on a circle template I have but I'm sure I need to know the thread count, etc for accuracy. Anyone have any advice? TIA Karl

Well guys, I think I got it . I have successfully re-done the headstock with the right amount of glue and thanks to Draks "PRS staining" tutorial have a pretty decent stain on it as well. Ready to take on the body this weekend. Thanks once again for all the advice here.

Ah, good info. I was a little suspicious of whether the Titebond Liquid Hide Glue was "as good as" regular hide glue and now it seems not. (I figured I didn't want to use the hide glue on the headstock since I wasn't sure if the plastic base there would have bonded well with the hide glue. I then just grabbed the Titebond II that I had around ) So it seems regular Titebond may work though? I'll just hang out a bit to see what the consensus is here. Again, thanks for any and all comments and suggestions. (BTW, I've looked at some of the work here and I have to say I think I found the right place for getting great advice!!!)

Wow! Thanks for the quick responses. Removing the veneer from the headstock shouldn't be too much of a pain so I'll just call do-over on that. In reading some of the tutorials, etc, it looks like I will be doing lots of practice runs before I get to the real thing. I guess it'll give me time to practice on the dyeing technique too, eh? Muchas gracias again for the feedback.

Hey all- I did a search and didn't find an answer to my question so hopefully someone can help me out here. I am adding a quilted maple veneer to my guitar. I just added it to the headstock and ran into an issue: it seems the glue absorbed through the veneer so when I went to stain it (anniline dye) there are places where the stain did not take. (Glad I did the headstock first ) Anyway, my question is has anyone experienced this and know what to do to prevent it on the body itself? Did I use too much glue? Could I possibly have over-clamped? On the headstock I used Titebond II since there was a plastic piece covering the entire headstock (Carvin neck). I plan on using Titebond Liquid Hide Glue on the body. (Not sure if the Hide Glue will take stain if it happens on the body since it is an organic substance.) I put the glue on the headstock using a small notched trowel-type thing, put the veneer on, laid a piece of wax paper then clamped a slightly over-sized piece of plywood on it...probably used 6 clamps for about 2 hours. Thanks for any advice here.