frubsen

thanks folks, going to take all this into consideration.

Hi all, I refinished a custom built guitar that I built about 6 years ago and I ordered new parts from Stewmac. The old parts I was using were from a cheap Epiphone guitar and it looks like the bridge and tailpiece bushings must have been 1/2" whereas the new Gotoh bushings are 7/16". So needless to say there is a little play when I put the new bushings in. Can I just glue the new ones in? If so what type of glue would work best? Or what are my options here? Thanks.

Hi all, I've been in the process of refinishing my guitar for the past couple of years...just been going at it reallllly slow. I'm at the point where I have the body ready to be oiled/stained and clear coated. I am planning on taking it to a body shop to get it clear coated as I want it professionally done. The body is a Les Paul style, with a mahogany back and maple top. I am going for a natural finish. My question is, how do i get the colour of the mahogany and maple to 'pop'. Is that going to come with the clear coat or do I have to oil or stain it before I clear coat it. I took a very lightly dampened cloth and wiped it over the whole guitar and basically got the look I was going for. The mahogany turned a nice deep red colour and the maple kinda glowed. But as soon as it dried it went back to its dull colour. What are my options here? Thanks.

the notch was closer to the nut, so i flipped it, and all is good now, the intonation is spot on and yeah, the screws are facing towards the nut

aha, got it, thanks

this is what the back looks like, i dont see any nuts

hey i have a tun-o-matic bridge, and the e and b string intonation is a bit off and the saddle is as far back as it will go, so i need to flip the saddle around. now i cant figure out how to do that heh, do i turn the screw all the way until the saddle comes right close the the head of the screw or all the way to the other end, cause either way it just seems like the screw stops, and i dont wanna force it. any help? thanks

doh, never even thought of doing a search for that, thanks.

i am about to stain and lacquer the guitar i'm making. would this work? thanks.

Hi, I'm making a flat top Les Paul style guitar and I have a bolt on neck I am going to be using from another flat top LP guitar. The body is 2" thick, now I'm pretty sure I need a neck angle but I want to make sure and I need to now the angle i need. I'm thinking 2-3 degrees? If anyone has some input that would be great. thanks.

I'm in Canada and the cheapest place i could find was $125 CDN at a local music store.

Hi all, I'm building a Les Paul style guitar and right now I am planning to use a Seymour Duncan APH-1 Alnico II Pro bridge pickup. I was also going to get the neck pickup version of that but both are $125 each so thats a little steep. What would be a good neck pickup to get that would have a nice clean sound for a little less, preferably seymour duncan? thanks.

ok, so would it be worth the extra for straight grain wood, or does it really matter?

whoops, i meant the pics for the complete solid body, not hollow hehe. i may add some of the cheese holes if i find it too heavy. and i've changed my mind again lol. i'm going to go with mohagany body and maple flat top. not going to go with the carved. i was talking to my wood teacher and he was thinking it would be better to have a maple top and bottom and mohagany in the middle to prevent wood warping and binding. he said if i wanted to do mohagany body and maple top then to use straight grain wood so it wood hold up better. any thoughts of wood? thanks.

i'm going for the complete solid body. thanks for the pics, do you have one like that but for a complete hollow body? i've decided to go with a mahogany body and maple top. this is the style of carved top i would like to do sorry for the bad pic, i couldnt find a bigger one. anyone here ever done this and have any tips?