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Hello, Here's my situation. I was shaping the headstock from a blank and the router took too much off the tip of the headstock. It is pointed so I need to glue 2 pieces of maple to the left and right side of the headstock point. 1st attempt: I cut the piece of maple to approximate size, then used a disc sander to attempt to get it to 1/8 thickness. However, the wood was bending and warping during the sanding. Is that because of the heat? I then sanded by hand, got it flat, and glued it. I cleaned up the squeeze my spraying water onto the bare glue joint. 12 hours later, I put the template on and tried to route it to its final shape, but the piece flung off. Actually broke off as i was routing around its corner. Was that the water on the wood, or too little time to glue, or the direction of routing. 2nd attempt: I sanded another piece to size and repeated the same steps, except i waited 24 hours. This time, I routed very slowly. I got it to shape, but the wood was black on the side from the router heat maybe, and the joint was coming loose. Was that definitely the router heat that caused it to melt the glue? There was only 1/8 inch between the router bit and the glue joint. Or was that because I sprayed water again to wipe off the glue squeeze. 3rd attempt: Instead of trying to route to the final shape, I decided to craft a piece if maple that would be perfect to size. I didn't use power tools to sand it, instead I used the Stewmac Safe T planer to get it to 1/8. I scored the joint sides with a razor so the glue would stick better. This time, I didn't use water to wipe the squeeze, just a paper towel. And this seems to work now. I then sanded the surfaces to flush it with the rest of the headstock. Now I am gluing the piece to the right, and the Safe T planer actually bent the piece a bit too, but not too bad, I sanded and glued it and will flush it tomorrow. Can anyone verify the cause of the 2 attempt failures? And do you guys have trouble with wood warping while using a belt sander to get a final thickness of 1/8 inch on a small piece of wood? Thank you

Oh wow thanks for clearing that up! I'll check out my epoxy against other ones

The result was fantastic. Here's what happened. I first user clear epoxy for all 3 of my messed up templates. It was my first time actually using epoxy. It was still gummy after the first day, so I waited a second. Then I filed them smooth, however 1 of the fills came out. That was maybe because I didn't mix it well enough or more than 5 minutes passed by the time I got to that last fill. What I did for that last one was use Stewmac 20 super glue, then accelerator, another layer, etc... that dried in like 1 minute. I filed that down and it came out harder than the epoxy and worked better for me. I haven't routed with the fixed templates yet, so I don't know how the fixed areas would deal with the friction heat from the router bearing Is JB Clearweld supposed to cure rock hard or be still somewhat gummy after a couple days? I might have mixed up the mixing.

Ah wonderful idea, I shall go forth with the epoxy. Thank you for your help.

Hey I accidentally routed a bit off of my acrylic pickup template. What is the best way to fix it so it is usable again? Should I use CA glue and fill and level it? Thanks

Oh wonderful, I'll proceed with the build. Thank you very much

Hey, Here is the neck joint dimensions of a design of mine, though I was curious if someone with more experience than me can chime in here. I am planning am AANJ joint here, the pictures are top and player side view. The concern is that the neck pickup is right against the neck, and there will be no "wall" between the end of the neck and the neck pickup. Will this be stable enough? https://ibb.co/dgZQna https://ibb.co/b0VbtF Thanks for looking

wait how do i find out which are the wiper connections?

Hello again, I managed to desolder the pot from the behringer pedal and extended its leads so it could fit on the pickguard. The on off is being controlled by a flip switch now. however i am having trouble mounting it because it doesnt have a screwing thingy on the pot. Under the pot it says B100k. The pedal's pot has 6 leads. 4 are linked (i think. when i use the multimeter, those 4 show numbers on the meter when they touch together.), 1 goes to ground, and 1 goes to its own thing. Is this a dual gang pot? (sorry for the bad phone quality) http://imageshack.us...1/wp000433.jpg/ http://imageshack.us.../wp000431u.jpg/ http://imageshack.us...9/wp000427.jpg/ I just bought one of these i thought i could replace it with. http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cc17de7fd How would i replace that pot with the one i just bought? Please help me guys! Thanks -Henry

Ah that's a dillema. I think I have a solution. Tell me it you Think this is ok. I'll use a separate dpdt for the true bypass on off. And ill desolder one of those pots to extend its leads and mount that pot directly on the pickguard. Right?

i just realized a big problem with the on off scenario. when i unplug the cable, the led indicator is still on and wont turn off unless the button on the pedal circuit is pushed. this will consume the battery after a day right? and when i replace the battery, i have to open the whole pickguard where the circuit is stored to press the button to activate the circuit. (because it gets deactivated when the battery is pulled out.) should i remove the button from the circuit board and solder the dpdt to where is was?

thanks for your help, but there really is nothing i can do for the first scenario? there has to be a way! :'(

Im trying to put a behringer spectrum pedal into my guitar. I want to use this http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=023-120&utm_source=googleps for two things. First, i want to use the potentiometer to control one of these pots. http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/4240/pict6978.jpg http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2618/pict6977.jpg Second, i want to use the push pull to control the on and off of this pedal http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/631/pict6974.jpg http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/6012/pict6971e.jpg Does anyone know how to solder the pot so that it can control this pedal in this way? Thanks! -Henry

ok thanks i guess ill leave it like this, i still gotta figure out a way to tame the hum on this guitar, when i touch metal it stops humming. is that a ground problem? i checked all my grounds are soldered right

oh wow, thats a quite a confusing circuit. i examined it but that cant really be done with 1 DPDT right? thats all the room i have in this tiny electronics cavity for since the 9v is takes up quite some space and only 1 hole left for the pot. btw, instead of this diagram i used http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_dpdt_tb_gi.pdf do you think trying this would have any effect? http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_dpdt_tb.pdf

im not sure how to find the exact impedance of the circuit, i have a multimeter but i am not to experienced with it. can you help me with what to put the multimeter dial on and where the 2 meter pins go? however, i do know the circuit is a low impedance active circuit.

or another theory might be that i used the grounded input true bypass. will it sound different if i used the standard true bypass diagram http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_dpdt_tb.pdf

ok i just put in the dpdt but i noticed some tonal differences even when the active circuitry is bypassed. when on bypass mode, i took the battery out and the guitar sounds warmer. still bypassed, i put the battery back in and the tone is more sparkly, but less warm. its not a big difference but it still is different. is it supposed to sound 100% like the pickup when bypassed or is the bypassed active circuitry always gonna color the tone? i used this http://generalguitar...t_input_grd.gif the only thing i changed is 1 wire from that diagram. instead of the ground from the top left pin to the board ground... i put the ground from the top left pin straight to the output jack ground. or, do you guys think its a buffer that might be in the active circuitry thats coloring it?

http://generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_dpdt_input_grd.gif i found this on the net, is this the one i should use?

ok i have an EMG ABQ from their laiho signature pickup in my guitar. The gain boost can be switched on an off but the frequency boost is always on. there is only one volume knob in my guitar and the ABQ is it. and there is an empty hole where the tone used to be. i have a push pull pot i just bought. i cant use those flip switches because i dont want to dril another hole. http://www.musiciansfriend.com/accessories/dimarzio-500k-push-pull-pot/987357000000000?src=3WFRWXX&ZYXSEM=0&CAWELAID=26057910 how do i wire these the ABQ with the push pull so that when i pull it, the ABQ is bypassed and the signal goes straight to the jack? (pushed in will be "on" mode) please help me out! thanks!

oooh i havent thought of that how can you tell when the top coat is cured? or how can you tell when the whole guitar is cured?

thanks for all the help and information guys i really appreciate it. im definitely going to use that sherwinn stuff the next time i paint a guitar. btw, thats a very awesome finish on that guitar wes! im also really intrigued by that aircraft poly finish, looks that a guitar with that finish can take a hit! status update: so far, i left the guitar out yesterday (all day long), the krylon acrylic coat first appeared very dull and rough. as a couple days progressed, i noticed parts of the finish got glossier, smoother, and harder (especially the maple neck). ill keep you posted on this krylon stuff and how it turns out. im definitely not expecting perfection here though since its my first paint job (well second if you count the screwup)

NO!!! Unless you like explosions. Look,if you wanted a quick drying finish,you should have used a multi-part finish..I use Sherwinn Williams conversion varnish,and it is ready to level sand in 15 minutes,buff in 12 hours,and assemble in 24... I realize this is little help now,but spray can finishes are slow drying...they have to be,to not harden in the can on the shelf...that is why the most durable,fastest drying finishes are multi-part and that is why they are mixed fresh and used within a couple of hours of mixing... You should NEVER paint your only guitar... Now stop trying to rush the process and either wait the required weeks or even months...or forget about not ruining your finish.Sorry to be the one to say it,but these other guys are tiptoeing around the horrible truth,which is that you made a mistake by painting a guitar you needed quickly with a slow drying paint,and to make it even slower,you put it on thick. ah man, well, every morning, i am bringing the guitar outside (warm and windy here in NJ this summer) to speed up the curing process. btw, do you have a link to the type of paint you used westhemann? does it have come in black too? is it more durable than those poly finishes? anyways, i stumbled upon this video recently. they have a curing oven in that factory, does any other place have one of those i can use? maybe itll work?

how hot? like should i put it in an oven at low heat?

4 cans of clear on the first finish? I count 7-10 days for each coat of clear before it ever thinks about final sanding and buffing when using Lacquer. ??? I don't care that the can says that it is dry in hours and final in 7 days. That's for just 1 coat. Even Krylon you need to wait some period based on how many coats you have. If it's an acrylic enamel I would not do anything for a least 4 to 7 days per coat with it. And that depends on the thickness of each coat. From a rattle can they tend to be thicker in my opinion since you have no control over the mix for spraying vs using a spray gun. Just my .02cents worth. Good Luck, MK thanks for the reply Mikro, the 4 cans of clear was actually the second attempt, the Krylon coats. its not the acrylic enamel though, its the acrylic lacquer one. does Krylon cure faster than Nitro? i see cars from collision shops being buffed days after they are painted. technically, it should be more effective on wood because wood absorbs paint more than metal or plastic on cars. 7 days for one coat? how thick are your coats? for me, each can did 3 coats (both body and neck, though the wind blew and wasted some decent amount of it, lol) Im probably gonna wait those months before buffing though, but right now i need a guitar to record my album and im trying to figure out the least amount of time i need to put the hardware and electronics back into place. then dissemble the guitar and buff in a few months later. thanks!