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Neven

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Neven last won the day on August 13 2014

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About Neven

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  • Birthday 10/02/1977

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    Croatia

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  1. About the wormhole, I believe I had the same worm a few times myself.. I believe that's the hole you drilled too deep for fingerboard locating pin. You had a nice save, it is not that noticeable any more. I screwed up a few necks trying to hide those holes, but fubared them and had to do complete new necks because of it You have a great build going on, good luck to you finishing it up
  2. Hey Steve, here's how I do it. By using 3M pinstripe masking tape (3mm width) I mask of the edge of the top that I'm gonna dye, the tape goes ON the top, not on the bevel/binding/whatever. I'm using pinstripe tape because it's flexible when doing curves, it's not made of paper but od some sort of plastic. When I finish with 3mm tape, I put at least one more round with 3M blue masking tape (20-22mm or so) so I can be more relaxed when using lacquer in the next stage. So, when the top is masked off nicely with precise edge and curves, I take a clean cotton rag and damp it a little into
  3. imho, no need for bolts and stuff, you don't need that much, and they can get in the way for clamping. As I wrote, I use just 4 nails, in equally sized holes (it is mportant, because if the holes are a bit larger, it would be enough for a joint to slip, and if you are using laminates which you want aligned, a little slip means a lot). 2 nails are not enough, 4 is ok if they are placed strategically (not to close to one another) .For fingerboards, in my practice, it's quite ok to do it the same way as for scarf joints. I put 4 nails through the fretslots, close to the truss rod (watch o
  4. Yes, you have to make adjustments to it also, because you "have to" follow the angle of tuners in regards to centerline. But with using computer it is not hard to do, I'm using CorelDraw, and it is pretty easy to adjust curves, and you can use the original photo as a background image, so you don't wander to far off. Sometimes it is enough to just move the tip of the headstock a few mm, end it ends up hardly noticable in overall design, but it suits the purpose. Been there... When gluing scarf joints, I use a bit wider blanks for neck and headstock. I set them up dry first (without glue
  5. Hard to tell exactly from the photos, and probably because it misses a part between the nut and a retainer bar, but the one one left should have the tuners rotated clockwise more than they are now. Looks like the string pull on thickest strings would end up getting inwards, to the centerline. I once threw away a nice flamed maple neck (finished and fretted) because I didn't consider that doing the wider nut would do that. It was functional, but looked too weird to me, and I couldn't accept keeping it like that. You should always draw the outer strings also (at least), to know what would i
  6. If you guys think I should upload better res photos, just say... I hate to waste others space, so I always lower the quality for faster download, but I think it shouldn't be that much of a problem anymore for most users? I see now they are really poor in a browser...
  7. Hi everyone! I have a few minutes today for a quick update. Didn't have time to waste last few months, so again I wasn't concentrated on taking pics much, so I'll just put up a finished guitar. I like this one a lot, it's so easy to play on it, it's effortless. It doesn't seem them most ergonomic guitar, but the design really impressed me with how it rests while in sitting position. The woods used are, ash for body, and maple/wenge for neck/fingerboard. Orange ABS for inlays and binding, vinyl decals on body and headstock underneath 2k matte poly. Seymour Duncan Blackout on
  8. I have a few more, but it's late now, and school begins tomorrow for my son, so gotta go for tonight... I hope to upload tomorrow.. cheers
  9. And here's one of my older builds, I've refinished this one countless times, made a new neck for it last year... Also my build from scratch, sapele body/maple & sapele neck/wenge fingerboard; EMG 707s, 26,5'' scale... Always loved JPM Ibby, so after not knowing anymore how to finish this one, it just appeared to me one day - so here it is. Build pics got lost somewhere these years
  10. You can probably notice all the differences made, so I guess I don't have to point them out more. But if anyone likes to discuss anything or have any questions, I'll be happy to answer. Here it is prior to finishing And for finishing, I masked off natural maple top as a binding, dyed the top with a rag, and shot layers of matte 2K poly until I had a nice flat finsih with closed pores on mahogany. With sanding between layers, of course. First I put in it some v7/V8 humbuckers with plastic covers, but soon acquired EM
  11. Hey guys, been a while since my last update... Been really busy with my regular job, some work at home etc, but I didn't forget to make a mess at my workshop I started a few builds at a time, so they are all in different stages now, I switch between builds when I get bored, to keep interest in building. I also gave some attention to some older builds and brought them near completion. Altogether, I did a lot of work while I wasn't updating... I was lazy only at documenting my builds, so my topic still cannot really help as a tutorial to anything, but I still believe a few of
  12. Well, the Tele is not wired yet, we're waiting for both of us to have the same day off from work, to do some adjustments and wiring. The basic idea was to have P90s as an independent system, classic LP wiring scheme, except the bridge pickup is moved more towards neck to make place for bridge humbucker, which is wired directly to output jack, no pots or whatever (but we might use one volume for it though, we'll see). Switching between the two circuits will be selected using mini switch, and the big 3way toggle is for the P90s. It looks simple but building this one was really a challe
  13. And here is the one I made for my friend Goran. It still needs sime fine adjustments, wiring, and cavity covers, but here it is put together for a tryout You'll probably notice I've put different veneer on the body and headstock, and a different color scheme. I would like it better if we did a burst on the sides, because I had a few spots where stain got sunk deep in the endgrain, but Goran didn't mind it, so we left it like this.
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