DirtyBird

I would just mount it on the front because I think it's just the most convenient place to put it ergonomics wise. Of course, it's only nice when you use an angled jack(on the cable) from the guitar, but if you do it works quite well. My RG is like this and I used to hate it, but ever since I got that angled jack it works beautifully. Mounting it down on the side makes it annoying to loop through the strap nut, and having it on the front with an angled jack makes it a bit simpler to insert and run it through the strap correctly. But if you put it on the side those angled jacks make it look a lot cleaner and it's easier to still to route it around the strap nut. But it's not as easy and simple as the front mounted method. Although I think it might look a little bit more professional. It seems like only low end guitars have front mounted jacks, so that might be an issue for you.

How did you manage to get the old hole filled in with the "JB Weld" stuff and get it to match the gold plating? I've heard of JB Weld but I have no experience with it, does it dry golden or something? It seems like your last picture of the trem shows it completely blending in with the rest of it. I'm amazed at how perfectly color matched and smooth it is.... How'd you manage that? Looks great!

Im gonna get a bit of money and I can either buy a new cheapish guitar to screw around with, get an EMG set and some locking tuners and stuff, or buy a bunch of refretting supplies. Now I know this is all expensive stuff, but that's why I came here to ask. What do I really NEED to have to do a refret? I'd like to be able to do a complete refret if I want, and if all I can afford is just to by fret dressing tools then I'm fine with that too. But I dont know what all I need. I'm guessing I need Some sort of leveling tool (use this for beveling too maybe?) crowning tools. What would I use for polish? fretwire fret wire bending device of some sort And do I really need one of those expensive fret-setters? Can I just use some sort of hammer or something instead maybe? I'd really like to keep this as cheap as possible, but I understand that may not be all that feasible. And I may just scrap the idea for later on anyway. A few years from now when I can better afford all the equipment I'll need and be able to possibly make my money back on my own time easier. But I'd still like some general guidelines on what I need to get.

Check out the making the neck from scratch section of the site. They have the measurements for a 25.5 inch scale guitar. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/neck.htm You can do a bit of math and get your bass scale measuresments.. Bass Scale x Guitar fret measurement = Guitar Scale x Bass fret measurement I believe that would work... Just make sure the numbers look okay first.

Oh, sorry. Yeah I put the stud back in there and just pulled it out, wasn't hard at all. Under normal circumstances, what could you do to fix that? The post sinking into the guitar? Or would just repositioning it work find as long as the trem doesnt catch on the cavity and jam it back in? But either way, Im going to drill for new Edge anchors now... And the drilling seems scary... Oh well.

Well in doing dive bombs with my new Edge equipped '470, something would seem to displace itself then pop back into place. I've come to realize that what's happening is the back of the tone block is hitting the back of the spring cavity and actually forced the front TRS anchor down into the body by a few mm at least. My TRS anchors weren't glued in at all. But Im not going to take the plunge and glue in TRS anchors. That would be a complete waste. So I have to put in Edge anchors. I have the Edge locking studs, but no anchors for them. My problem is I'm really scared about drilling into my guitar. How hard is it going to be (my friend has told me I can use his drillpress, but I have no idea how to use it, and he doesn't ever use it either so... :-\ ) to drill out those old stud holes and install the new anchors? Is the drilling itself going to be a very, very delicate operation? Or is just setting the depth and trying to center the drill in the existing hole going to get me in the ballpark enough to not have too many problems? Remember one Edge knife is completely straight, so you have a bit of leeway there. Also are the Edge anchors deeper than TRS anchors? As that TRS anchor has gone down 3 mm at least into the hole, but if not I guess I can just fill it with glue. This is my plan. I want to just take out the old studs (done already) and then drill out the new hole by just trying ot eyeball it as carefully as possible, set the depth to however deep Edge anchors are and slowly drill in there with the drillpress. And then dump a ton of glue in that hole and get those new anchors in there as fast as possible, and get rid of excess glue. Now how long should I wait before putting the Edge anchors in there and stringing her up? Also I have the option of just buying OFR studs, which include the anchors from Stew-mac... This has an advantage of them accepting credit cards (Rich doesn't at this price range, and I havent heard back from vwall yet...) which is a lot easier for me. So what do you guys think? And I dont know anyone around here who I can take it to to get it done 'professionally' and I think (I'm no expert ) that as long as Im careful during the drilling I'll be fine... ANY INFO WHATSOEVER would be appreciated. Tell me I'm a moron for getting a TRS equipped guitar if you want, just so I get some input!

I've seen several sites online selling EMG's but you have to email them for pricing... now it makes sense. Now I wonder if even THAT is legal under their agreement. But how can stores sell them if they can't 'advertise the price'. That seems to mean that if you have them on display at a store you have to go to the cashier to figure out how much they cost... Or is it okay to list the price at the store, as long as you dont actually advertise them? No one around here carries EMG's so I just dont know.

Well I use it mainly to control between song feedback and such. It's nice to be able to just cut off hte sound somehow when you dont need any. Otherwise you're going ot have a constantly ON guitar. At least have a kill switch.

I've only seen a badly botched one! But it's not all that difficult to do, like most anything else, if you have the right tools. In my experience any time anyone seriously f's up is because they try to improvise. Of course that's just been my experience. So use a drill press and a router and go slowly, and measure 3 times and then measure again and it really shouldn't be too big of a deal. Aside from having to repaint it anyway.

Thanks man! Edge or FR Pro? Eech... too many decisions!

And if anyone ever makes fun of a pink guitar, you can always do what those Charvel guys do... "It's not pink, it's Faded Ferrari Red!" But you're making a plexiglass pickguard, correct? Wouldn't that be bad as far as noise? You can't really shield a plexiglass pickguard. And you have Single coils in there too... Whoa! A purple pimpcaster with EMG's! That would be almost as cool as a Daisy Rock guitar with EMG's in it that I want to do sometime! Come on you all know you want to do Slayer covers on your EMG equipped Daisy Rock guitar! I need to build a guitar one of these days....

How deep is the sustain block on the FR Pro you bought? It might be a bit easier than buying an Edge...

Several reputable dealers to get them from, but NOT ED ROMAN, EVER! The fellow at vh-guitarstore responded to my emails the very next day, I was asking if he could sell me just the bridge (no springs, nut, etc) and he said he couldn't , but he had a used black FR he could sell for $75.. But I've decided to go with an Edge. He seemed like a nice enough guy. But a slightly more known quantity: Warmoth, they sell a Schaller variant and the normal version Musiciansfriend - bleh... kind of over priced I tink Stew-mac - they sell the Schaller version at warmoth for a $30 markup I would go for Warmoth or VH-Guitarstore myself... Allparts and wdmusic sell FR's but at hideous price points, and from my research VH-Guitarstore is the cheapest, and Warmoth is the cheapest bigger dealer. Also of note, the Warmoth OFR has a 37 mm block, while the MF, and Schaller at warmoth have a 43mm block. For Ibanezes the 43mm block is just too big... Be sure you know how big your block can be! And there's always ebay...