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About Galaga_Mike

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  1. I've built 7-8 guitars and am starting to question my fretboard process. Curious to hear what other people do. I typically: 1. Cut fretslots a bit deeper than needed to account for radiusing 2. Do the inlay 3. Glue fretboard to neck 4. Radius the fretboard 4.5 (uplanned) Re-deepen the edges of the fretslots, maybe re-deepen some of the inlay pockets near the edge of the neck 5. Install frets The problem is that 4.5 step where I often have to re-deepen fretslots and some inlay pockets. Thinking about radiusing before fretslots and inlay, but I like the nice flat surface
  2. After building 4-5 guitars I decided to take the time to rebuild a few of my jigs. Just wanted to share this flattening jig. The rails are stacked mdf held down by bolts so I can change the rail height. Everything is based on 1/2 inch conduit and 1/4-20 bolts. I used tee nuts for a grid of hold down points. I'll also be mounting radiused guides on the short end so it will double as a fretboard radius jig (which was the whole original motivation).
  3. I have a 1960's Kay acoustic that has been through the ringer. I need to refret the whole thing but the original fret slots are really wide. I know that stew mac has the fret crimp tool, but I'd rather fill the slots and reslot if possible. I think the Hissock book suggested filling the slot with veneer. Has anyone done this? Do i just go buy rosewood veneer, wood glue it in, sand it flush, and reslot? Any words of wisdom from someone who has done this? thanks in advance.
  4. Building my 5th or 6th guitar, and I have the truss slot cut on my neck ready to glue on the fret board. I happened to put the neck board down on my tablesaw and noticed that there is a twist. One corner of the wood is lifted by about 1/4"-3/8". I don't have a very good planer, so should I: A. Ignore the twist. It's small enough that it won't matter. B. Try to twist it straight (I clamped it to the flat table overnight while I think about options). C. Plane it straight with my router sled setup. Not sure how accurate this will be. D. Trash it, cut my losses, and get a
  5. It's a solid mahogany back, no cap. I definitely borrowed the method from someone on here. Just route a cavity in the mahogany from the top until the remaining wood is the desired cover thickness. Then drill a small hole and feed through anthin scroll saw blade. Cut out the cover, then install a lip to catch the cover and embed magnets on the cover and lip. Hope that made sense. I actually find this method faster than trying to make a perfect fitting cover from other wood. Thin blade scroll saw is the key. The back wood is not bookmatched at all, just got a little lucky with the grains.
  6. This was my 5th build. Nearly identical to my 4th build other than this one being a hardtail. I did this one as a 40th birthday present for my brother. He was excited to get it. I enjoyed doing this one because I did it in 6 weeks, which is pretty fast since I only have an hour or two a day for building. It was especially fun since this was the first time I repeated a build, so that: 1) I had all the templates and didn't spend all my time making new jigs. 2) I could redo some small mistakes I made on the first one. Overall, a good experience. My finishing has a long way to go. Here a
  7. Very, very clean. The glue was 60 years old and ready to come off. Only took a little bit of heat and a scraper.
  8. A quick photo for posterity. I removed the frozen rod, routed the channel slightly wider, put a shim in to make it shallower, and now the new rod fits in very nicely.
  9. So I'm an electric builder that's trying to build up my acoustic skills. To do this I'm doing a neck reset and a refret on a 1960's Kay jumbo that I love. While I have the fretboard off for the neck reset, I was considering pulling out the original truss rod and replacing it with a newer two-way rod (like the ones stew-mac sells). I've used those in electrics and they work great. The original truss rod nut is close to stripped, I don't trust it, and it would be nice to have two way adjustment in case I need it. I will probably need to widen the channel slightly, but this seems like an
  10. Finished this build this weekend!!! I may thin out the neck slightly in the future, but that won't change the photos, so you guys can consider this one done. Overall I am really pleased with this one. Good things I learned: - Attention to detail is by far the most important thing in the quality of a guitar - Take your time - I like zero frets - I like roller bridges Lessons learned: - Plan your neck taper, not just your width at the neck. I can't believe I missed this one. Still not 100% pleased with the fix, I may work on it more if/when I slim up the neck. - I will probably fin
  11. Finished the Tru Oil process and wired it up yesterday. Plays like a dream. Completed pictures coming soon. I'm still considering shaving the neck a little more since it is slightly thick, but I'll play it for a week or so before I decide. Pictures to follow. It was nice to do some simple wiring since my last guitar was ridiculously complicated (sustainer, kill switch, coil taps, etc.). This one is just two volume pots with a push/pull coil tap for each pickup and a selector switch.
  12. Oh, and to answer your other question: At least for a kill switch, the switch isn't carrying your guitar signal when it's not being used, so there is no tone impact. If you use it for coil tapping or anything else, it will be carrying the guitar signal and may affect tone (but I seriously, seriously doubt it).
  13. There are two switch properties that aren't necessarily related to each other. The contacts: A SPST switch has two terminals and just connects those terminals when activated. A DPDT switch has three terminals and connects the C terminal to either the NO or NC terminal when activated. The actuator: Momentary - Only activated when pushed, deactivates when you let go Maintained - Activated when you push it, stays activated until you push it again. The arcade button I used was DPDT (3 terminals) but Momentary (deactivates when you let go). I've never seen a maintained arcade button
  14. I used one of these on a recent build. The biggest challenge was depth, make sure it fits in the body. They are momentary switches, so they only close the contacts when the button is pressed, which doesn't make them useful for any real on/off or coil tap uses, but they are great for kill switches. For "press the button to kill the signal", just do OutputJackHotLead -> Switch (C&NO Contacts) -> Ground I prefer to wire it in series with a toggle switch so that you toggle the switch to enable the kill button then you "press the button to make noise (let go and the signal dies)"
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